Autocross STH Class thread!

Benster

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bringing this thread back from the dark ages, but I started doing autox with my hatch and have 9" wheels, looking at the 225s on it currently it doesn't feel like 255s or 265s will be that effective. Looks like they would be too wide for the wheels. Anyone have feedback using 17x9s with 255s or 265s?
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bringing this thread back from the dark ages, but I started doing autox with my hatch and have 9" wheels, looking at the 225s on it currently it doesn't feel like 255s or 265s will be that effective. Looks like they would be too wide for the wheels. Anyone have feedback using 17x9s with 255s or 265s?
255 or 265 on a 9 inch wheel. You’ve got to be stretched with a 225. I was eyeing a 255/40 on a 17x9 if I keep my Si and run it back in STH next season. A 255 RT660 will also run wide for the size So could be good option.
 

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255 or 265 on a 9 inch wheel. You’ve got to be stretched with a 225. I was eyeing a 255/40 on a 17x9 if I keep my Si and run it back in STH next season. A 255 RT660 will also run wide for the size So could be good option.
Yeah it is pretty stretched but they were on an s2k so makes sense.
 

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After a video I saw on Tire rack, I'm tempted to see if I can find some 245 to stretch onto 9 or 9.5
 

Benster

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After a video I saw on Tire rack, I'm tempted to see if I can find some 245 to stretch onto 9 or 9.5
A 245 will probably be square or close to on a 9" wheel depending on the tire you use. 255s RT660s will probably be a bit wide on the wheels but I'm allowed 265s in this class. Though with the 38 offset the tires would poke out way too much. I'll probably be running 255s myself. I did see that video as well but the RT660s have a really stiff sidewall so it should offset the tire width. With 225s on the car it's not competitive compared to the WRXs in the class but I'm close enough that more mods will make it a serious contender(tires, suspension and chassis stiffness first, LSD and power may come later down the road).
 


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I've autocrossed for about a year and a half in STH class, 255s will fit with no rubbing with a 1" drop and 2 degrees of camber. It feels like you really need the extra tire to compete, so go as large as you can. Also a note, don't buy Enkei RPF1s, you'll need a 5mm spacer to clear the brake calipers and not gouge your wheels. Ask me how I know...
 

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I've autocrossed for about a year and a half in STH class, 255s will fit with no rubbing with a 1" drop and 2 degrees of camber. It feels like you really need the extra tire to compete, so go as large as you can. Also a note, don't buy Enkei RPF1s, you'll need a 5mm spacer to clear the brake calipers and not gouge your wheels. Ask me how I know...
is 2 degrees doable with just the strut pin pulled and will it wear my street tires fast or it's not far enough to really reduce life span?
 

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I should have specified I'm on coilovers so that's where I get the extra camber. Not sure where the strut pin pull gets you as far as camber goes, but you could probably find the info in the H Street threads perhaps.

As far as wear goes, I haven't really seen an increase in inside wear after a couple thousand miles, including a few road trips. I think Civics just aren't really heavy enough to punish a lot of camber. I'm going to push it further next Alignment, but wear should be perfectly fine with the strut pin pulled.
 

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Well, just finished today's run in 10th position for pax times. Was pretty sick for my 5th autox day. Those 225s really surprised me today.
 

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255s installed on my Konigs, putting them on next week for a quick road grip test.
Should be very different to the old 225s.

Honda Civic 10th gen Autocross STH Class thread! 20230922_163502
 


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What kind of camber setups are you STH guys running? I’m running an Enkei RPF1 17x9 +35 with 255/40 RT660 and Whiteline 22mm RSB on stiff setting. I also have Whiteline adjustable ball joints in the front and Whiteline adjustable toe arms in the rear. Lowered on Swift Springs.

At last alignment front camber was -1.78 driver and -1.56 passenger. Rear camber was -2.35 driver and -2.16 passenger.

I feel like the car still wants to push. I’m wondering if the camber at the rear is making it less willing to come around. I didn’t want to mess more any more with camber after doing the front ball joints though I do have rear camber arms laying around. TYI
 

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What kind of camber setups are you STH guys running? I’m running an Enkei RPF1 17x9 +35 with 255/40 RT660 and Whiteline 22mm RSB on stiff setting. I also have Whiteline adjustable ball joints in the front and Whiteline adjustable toe arms in the rear. Lowered on Swift Springs.

At last alignment front camber was -1.78 driver and -1.56 passenger. Rear camber was -2.35 driver and -2.16 passenger.

I feel like the car still wants to push. I’m wondering if the camber at the rear is making it less willing to come around. I didn’t want to mess more any more with camber after doing the front ball joints though I do have rear camber arms laying around. TYI
That's what I feared going square set-up on mine too, less camber in the rear will help it move around more, the unity performance guys are running a 255/235 set up to keep the rear end lively.

I was going for about your set up next year actually, except for whiteline springs so it's good to know I'll be understeering and needing rear camber arms if I want to reduce that.

I'd say something around -2 in the front and -1.5 in the rear should be a decent set-up to test.
 
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I have yet to autocross our FK7 (might try to get some in next season) but a 255/235 tire stagger with 10/13k springs and a 25mm rear bar have really been great for cutting down understeer on track.

Autocross has some interesting rules but basically run the widest tire on the widest wheel that your class allows. If the tire is pinched (as is common in a lot of AX classes) it can help to run them a bit higher on pressure to combat pinched sidewalls rolling excessively.
 

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What kind of camber setups are you STH guys running? I’m running an Enkei RPF1 17x9 +35 with 255/40 RT660 and Whiteline 22mm RSB on stiff setting. I also have Whiteline adjustable ball joints in the front and Whiteline adjustable toe arms in the rear. Lowered on Swift Springs.

At last alignment front camber was -1.78 driver and -1.56 passenger. Rear camber was -2.35 driver and -2.16 passenger.

I feel like the car still wants to push. I’m wondering if the camber at the rear is making it less willing to come around. I didn’t want to mess more any more with camber after doing the front ball joints though I do have rear camber arms laying around. TYI
I think I've got my rear end fairly dialed in, I'm on coilovers with -2 degrees camber up front but have all factory rear alignment (-1 degree camber, 0.1 degree toe out). Camber arms in the rear really sorted out my setup, and I think -1 degrees is alright for the rear if you have a stiffer sway bar (I have the same whiteline one right now). The car is pretty predictable now and the rear starts to loosen gradually through sweepers.
 

Benster

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I think I've got my rear end fairly dialed in, I'm on coilovers with -2 degrees camber up front but have all factory rear alignment (-1 degree camber, 0.1 degree toe out). Camber arms in the rear really sorted out my setup, and I think -1 degrees is alright for the rear if you have a stiffer sway bar (I have the same whiteline one right now). The car is pretty predictable now and the rear starts to loosen gradually through sweepers.
Did you need adjustable toe bars or just re-adjusting camber fixed it to the 0.1 toe out?
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