ARP head studs

[Doc_Mello]

1. It isn’t the torque spec or clamping load that is the weak point with the factory head bolts, it is the metallurgy. I would not recommend torquing them over spec either because, unlike studs, bolts are subject to high torsion as you perform final torque and you risk weakening or even shearing them. Not a fun time.

2. Minimal. Despite the heat and forces of the environment that head bolts operate in, the bolt heads are constantly bathed in oil and the threads are effectively sealed from exposure meaning that corrosion and galling is virtually nonexistent and so breakaway torque is low enough as to not risk shearing a bolt unless they are already severely compromised. Not impossible, just extremely unlikely.

Good info.

What about replacing 8 of the bolts with studs. Really don’t want to mess with the HPFP, nor that metal cam plate.

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[SethNES]

The kit from two step says it doesn't fit 19' Civic Si?

 

[LBP]

Good info.

What about replacing 8 of the bolts with studs. Really don’t want to mess with the HPFP, nor that metal cam plate.

Wouldn’t recommend that either and one of the reasons also kinda ties into torquing the factory bolts over spec - you don’t know what the breakaway torque is going to be. For instance, @MetalKnightCivicHB found that one of the bolts took an extra 10lb-ft or so to break loose, which I would say is probably due to stiction at the mating surface of the bolt head. Because of this you’re not going to be able to accurately match torque/clamping loads without removing all of the fasteners, which may promote head gasket failure and head warpage in addition to leaving the two weak fasteners. And, at that point, you’d have already had to remove the cam cover plate and HPFP carrier, and generally shouldn’t reuse factory head bolts after removal anyway.

You can reuse the cam cover plate if you take care to avoid damage when removing it, but it’s like $5 or less not counting shipping, so just order a new one and some HondaBond HT. Part # 12513-59B-000 I believe. I ordered one through HondaPartsNow.com recently. If you’re feeling spendy, MAPerformance sells a CNC billet aluminum cover that uses o-rings and so is easily reusable and doesn’t require HondaBond.

 

[ManitobaSI]

60 ft lbs of torque on a head bolt is different than 60 ft lbs on a head stud. Bolts see stress in two planes versus studs in one plane. Studs therefore are better than bolts in this regard. A main item of concern is that the head has equal and typical torque applied across all fasteners. I learned about the difference in one of those HPA academy courses. I can’t remember all the physics so don’t quote me and maybe Lougle it for more info.

The other nice thing about head studs is you can reuse them! I don’t thing you can technically reuse OEM head bolts if they are torque to yield. Again many people have done it but I just won’t do it.

Many people successfully have done the one bolts/stud swap at a time swap-a-roo and I am happy for their success. I know one gent that it didn’t work for them tho. I personally would remove the head completely to do the swap. Thsi is because I am ocd and over think and over analyze everything.

I also have heard over the years from people that head bolts have been more of an issue for those running ethanol.

If it’s not broke… do we need to fix it in this case? Pre building a trans before it breaks is a good idea IMO, that’s a scenario where a break can make things get even worse in a domino effect. But in the case if we get head lift we don’t typically have any permanent head damage or messy clean up? I could be wrong as I haven’t had a head gasket go on me before.

If we get head lift does that lead to warpage and require decking?

FYI VCD racing makes a kit in addition to twostep.

Also I want to share an interesting piece of info I have recently learned on my B series build. If we use new fasteners with a significantly higher clamping load: then those piece may distort clearances out of spec and would need to be machined. This is not the case for us and the L15 head studs do not greatly increase clamping load beyond an unreasonable amount. But for other cases, For example: if I want to replace my Honda OEM rod studs with arp head studs, I would in fact need to rehone my rod big ends. This is a new concept I learned I wanted to share!

Have a great day

 

[Sport-injected]

Head bolts stretch when torqued. Some manufacturers have a stretch spec, can be reused within a certain amount of stretch. Not recommended to do.

 

[Doc_Mello]

Wouldn’t recommend that either and one of the reasons also kinda ties into torquing the factory bolts over spec - you don’t know what the breakaway torque is going to be. For instance, @MetalKnightCivicHB found that one of the bolts took an extra 10lb-ft or so to break loose, which I would say is probably due to stiction at the mating surface of the bolt head. Because of this you’re not going to be able to accurately match torque/clamping loads without removing all of the fasteners, which may promote head gasket failure and head warpage in addition to leaving the two weak fasteners. And, at that point, you’d have already had to remove the cam cover plate and HPFP carrier, and generally shouldn’t reuse factory head bolts after removal anyway.

You can reuse the cam cover plate if you take care to avoid damage when removing it, but it’s like $5 or less not counting shipping, so just order a new one and some HondaBond HT. Part # 12513-59B-000 I believe. I ordered one through HondaPartsNow.com recently. If you’re feeling spendy, MAPerformance sells a CNC billet aluminum cover that uses o-rings and so is easily reusable and doesn’t require HondaBond.

No, yeah, I would never do that. I couldn’t sleep if I knew two bolts were not replaced. Similar to @ManitobaSI , I’m far too detail-oriented to do any installs half-a$$.

Yep, I’ve watched his video a couple of times. It’s an involved process, but , is what it is. I’d probably just get the MAp plate.

Thanks, G!

 

[MetalKnightCivicHB]

Wouldn’t recommend that either and one of the reasons also kinda ties into torquing the factory bolts over spec - you don’t know what the breakaway torque is going to be. For instance, @MetalKnightCivicHB found that one of the bolts took an extra 10lb-ft or so to break loose, which I would say is probably due to stiction at the mating surface of the bolt head. Because of this you’re not going to be able to accurately match torque/clamping loads without removing all of the fasteners, which may promote head gasket failure and head warpage in addition to leaving the two weak fasteners. And, at that point, you’d have already had to remove the cam cover plate and HPFP carrier, and generally shouldn’t reuse factory head bolts after removal anyway.

You can reuse the cam cover plate if you take care to avoid damage when removing it, but it’s like $5 or less not counting shipping, so just order a new one and some HondaBond HT. Part # 12513-59B-000 I believe. I ordered one through HondaPartsNow.com recently. If you’re feeling spendy, MAPerformance sells a CNC billet aluminum cover that uses o-rings and so is easily reusable and doesn’t require HondaBond.

Good to know theres a plate to replace that. It was annoying to put a honda bond

 

[jscm]

I replaced the head bolts with arp studs one at a time and the car runs good. I am just a little concern and is always at the back of my head about the nut when being torqued to 70ftlbs. after the nut is torqued and I let go of the wrench, I could see the nut rotate back just a little bit maybe 8th of a turn it did this to all the headstuds. does this mean that they are torqued less than 70ftlbs and was not torqued properly?

 

[TonyTheTiger57]

Was it the torque wrench coming out of its sequence? They shouldn’t turn that easily..

 

[bbeem]

I replaced the head bolts with arp studs one at a time and the car runs good. I am just a little concern and is always at the back of my head about the nut when being torqued to 70ftlbs. after the nut is torqued and I let go of the wrench, I could see the nut rotate back just a little bit maybe 8th of a turn it did this to all the headstuds. does this mean that they are torqued less than 70ftlbs and was not torqued properly?

What? That should absolutely not happen! Are you using the busa studs that need a half inch spacer or washer stack? If that's the case you bottomed out on the threads and it isn't tight. Have you driven it like that?

 

[jscm]

What? That should absolutely not happen! Are you using the busa studs that need a half inch spacer or washer stack? If that's the case you bottomed out on the threads and it isn't tight. Have you driven it like that?

I am using the arp studs from tsp. even though the car runs fine I am worried that they might loosen itself. I have been contemplating of retorquing it ever since I switched it 8 months ago.

 

[ManitobaSI]

Did you torque in three stages?

 

[LBP]

Did you torque in three stages?

I'm curious about this as well. Very important to follow the steps in the instructions exactly. I also hope that the provided ARP lube was used as instructed.

 

[jscm]

Did you torque in three stages?

I did.

 

[jscm]

this is probably the mistake I did. on the instruction on step 4 it says "apply arp lubricant on tops of the of the washers". what I did was lubed both sides of the washers. its just confusing cause Ive watched other honda guys installing arp studs says to lube both sides

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