ARP head studs

Chris_19Si

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I did mine a little while ago one at a time per the same instructions above using the TSP kit. Also installed the MAP plate. No problems. I run a flex-fuel tune and drive pretty hard. I ran for about 2 years on flex-fuel before doing studs. Probably hit and miss on lifting the head, but worth the cost and effort to help prevent it. Got a little more familiar with the engine too. I haven't thought too much about it since the installation. Don't think I have a reason to pop the valve cover off to check torque either.
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swanarg

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this is probably the mistake I did. on the instruction on step 4 it says "apply arp lubricant on tops of the of the washers". what I did was lubed both sides of the washers. its just confusing cause Ive watched other honda guys installing arp studs says to lube both sides
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I mean, at this point if you've still not had issues then I'd say keep rolling ahhaha. it is very strange that you visually saw the nut reverse. you certainly are NOT supposed to apply the arp lube to the matting surfaces between the bottom of the washer and head itself. this should be clean and lube free. I'll do studs if the head lifts or the engine lets go. I've been running without them for a couple years now on my gtx2860 on E. but I don't drive like a maniac and its my daily. What I plan to do is swap an L15CA and do the Si cam/HPFP upgrade at the same time. So I don't feel like digging in there twice. Id rather just do the shortblock swap and studs all at the same time.
 

GrDeleto

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I mean, at this point if you've still not had issues then I'd say keep rolling ahhaha. it is very strange that you visually saw the nut reverse. you certainly are NOT supposed to apply the arp lube to the matting surfaces between the bottom of the washer and head itself. this should be clean and lube free. I'll do studs if the head lifts or the engine lets go. I've been running without them for a couple years now on my gtx2860 on E. but I don't drive like a maniac and its my daily. What I plan to do is swap an L15CA and do the Si cam/HPFP upgrade at the same time. So I don't feel like digging in there twice. Id rather just do the shortblock swap and studs all at the same time.
Wait, you mean swap an CA. Including the head or?
 

swanarg

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Wait, you mean swap an CA. Including the head or?
No just the shortblock. The shortblock will work with our heads. The head on the CA will not work with our ECUs they can’t talk to each other properly.
 

GrDeleto

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No just the shortblock. The shortblock will work with our heads. The head on the CA will not work with our ECUs they can’t talk to each other properly.
Are ca blocks and cranks even available? I'm not sure.
 


swanarg

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Are ca blocks and cranks even available? I'm not sure.
well, im not sure if you or me can go up and grab one from honda dealer. but one of the honda guys i know said if/when im ready he can get me a shortblock. ill cross that bridge when i get there
 

luispe7

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Good info, lots of Honda's and 2JZ's do run the L19's as head studs, just need to give it the white glove treatment. I have been happy with ARP 2000 head and main studs on all my builds, works very well.
My mechanic ordered the MAP kit instead of the TSP kit. Should I be worried that my head is gonna lift again?
 

Boosted_01_R

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My mechanic ordered the MAP kit instead of the TSP kit. Should I be worried that my head is gonna lift again?
Hard to say, I would expect you'll be fine. It's just not the proper way, like the TSP kit. Not to mention the MAP kit cost more than the TSP kit last time I checked.

There is a trend of those who have had head gasket issues (400whp +) with the MAP head studs, have since moved to TSP studs.... Those spacers are pretty thick, and thermal expansion over time is a bitch lol. Is the MAP studs slowly backing off over time, again it's hard to say but it's a theory of those with issues.

If he only ordered the kit have him return it and get the TSP kit. Hopefully MAP doesn't have a stocking fee.
 

luispe7

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Hard to say, I would expect you'll be fine. It's just not the proper way, like the TSP kit. Not to mention the MAP kit cost more than the TSP kit last time I checked.

There is a trend of those who have had head gasket issues (400whp +) with the MAP head studs, have since moved to TSP studs.... Those spacers are pretty thick, and thermal expansion over time is a bitch lol. Is the MAP studs slowly backing off over time, again it's hard to say but it's a theory of those with issues.

If he only ordered the kit have him return it and get the TSP kit. Hopefully MAP doesn't have a stocking fee.
He already installed them lol
 


luispe7

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Ah lol. If your somewhat mechanically inclined. Do a stud torque check at 6 months, then a year after that. It's what I would do to give myself that piece of mind.
Ok got you thanks
 

TonyTheTiger57

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So your mechanic just does what he wants instead of what the customer asked of him? Hmmm.. How does that work?
 

luispe7

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So your mechanic just does what he wants instead of what the customer asked of him? Hmmm.. How does that work?
No he said he would put an upgraded head studs kit and I assumed it would be TSP but when I picked up the car he said he went with MAP
 

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Anyone know if there are any technical differences between the TSP and VCD kits?
The TSP ARP kit is made of very strong ARP2000 and cost $300. The VCD is unspecified steel and costs $350
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