Are camber arms a must if you run lowering springs?

jayy_swish

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it would be a waste because they’re not needed? i’m looking into eibach springs for my sport touring hatch and ive heard that the prokits don’t need camber arms but i’ve heard mixed replies on camber arms for the sportlines
Not sure about prokits, but I’m sure you could run those with no camber arms. Probably be within spec anyways when it comes to camber. Sportlines have slight noticeable negative chamber. It’s a little over -2° If I can recall. To combat tire wear I rotate tires every oil change. Now have 21k miles (got the springs at 3k and wheels and tires at 4K). If you don’t have the means to rotate so often or scared of tire wear, then yes I would get camber arms.
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Frank Rallye

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it would be a waste because they’re not needed? i’m looking into eibach springs for my sport touring hatch and ive heard that the prokits don’t need camber arms but i’ve heard mixed replies on camber arms for the sportlines
Eibach suggest it for both kit (on the website) but a lot of people said that for the ProKit is not needed because the lowering is not "so low".

Probably with a lowering >30mm you will notice a lot the negative camber.
 

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from my research if you plan on sport lines, get camber arms. You can run the pro kit and it will not negatively affect tire wear much more than stock and be at the end of factory spec, but for me I already think stock rear camber is too much so to do the prokit myself I'd get the camber arms and stay around -1 degree.

Just my opinion, I don't like excessive camber for no reason on my cars. Once I start tracking the car I may change my mind though.

Whiteline has springs now that will only drop 0.8" or 20mm, which is a bit higher than the pro kit I think. Spring stiffness is also a bit stiffer than the pro kit but from what the owner of Unity it is very streetable still. I might be leaning towards that one now cause I don't want a drop lower than 1" since I winter drive the car in Canada.
 

jimmyn35

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from my research if you plan on sport lines, get camber arms. You can run the pro kit and it will not negatively affect tire wear much more than stock and be at the end of factory spec, but for me I already think stock rear camber is too much so to do the prokit myself I'd get the camber arms and stay around -1 degree.

Just my opinion, I don't like excessive camber for no reason on my cars. Once I start tracking the car I may change my mind though.

Whiteline has springs now that will only drop 0.8" or 20mm, which is a bit higher than the pro kit I think. Spring stiffness is also a bit stiffer than the pro kit but from what the owner of Unity it is very streetable still. I might be leaning towards that one now cause I don't want a drop lower than 1" since I winter drive the car in Canada.
yea. i bought the pro kits yesterday :D
 

jayy_swish

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from my research if you plan on sport lines, get camber arms. You can run the pro kit and it will not negatively affect tire wear much more than stock and be at the end of factory spec, but for me I already think stock rear camber is too much so to do the prokit myself I'd get the camber arms and stay around -1 degree.

Just my opinion, I don't like excessive camber for no reason on my cars. Once I start tracking the car I may change my mind though.

Whiteline has springs now that will only drop 0.8" or 20mm, which is a bit higher than the pro kit I think. Spring stiffness is also a bit stiffer than the pro kit but from what the owner of Unity it is very streetable still. I might be leaning towards that one now cause I don't want a drop lower than 1" since I winter drive the car in Canada.
You might as well get oem Si springs off someone for cheaper
 


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from my research if you plan on sport lines, get camber arms. You can run the pro kit and it will not negatively affect tire wear much more than stock and be at the end of factory spec, but for me I already think stock rear camber is too much so to do the prokit myself I'd get the camber arms and stay around -1 degree.

Just my opinion, I don't like excessive camber for no reason on my cars. Once I start tracking the car I may change my mind though.

Whiteline has springs now that will only drop 0.8" or 20mm, which is a bit higher than the pro kit I think. Spring stiffness is also a bit stiffer than the pro kit but from what the owner of Unity it is very streetable still. I might be leaning towards that one now cause I don't want a drop lower than 1" since I winter drive the car in Canada.
Whiteline's spring has higher rate, especially the front. Some user feel it is very firm but still streetable. I interpret it as compared that with 27Won's RMM, some user feel that it is firm but also streetable. I suppose it all depend on NVH tolerance and what you are after.

I have Si springs on my '18 Sport MT for almost a year. Unlike the Si RSB, performance wise, change over has been remarkable all without harshness. Personally, I am not much into the "dropped look", rather, I am more inclined into performance. However, Si springs does lower car .5" overall. although I also had Si RSB at time of spring change, spring change was still remarkable. Then, I change to Whiteline 22mm RSB + Accord end links, and after a couple of weeks, added Whiteline front end links. So...long story short, regarding near edge of NVH and diminishing return on my PS4S tire performance/longevity, I am satisfied where I am at.
 
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JT Si

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Everyone's in here clamoring about whether camber arms are worth it or not because tire life but only one person mentioned the other, potentially more important point.

Front camber will be largely unaffected by lowering springs because of the front strut suspension geometry.

The rear will see a substantial increase. This will cause a significant increase in understeer and in my experience with my Si, it absolutely ruined the balance and handling feel of the vehicle.

If you care about this, you need camber arms to be able to adjust the rear camber back down and correct the balance.

You can pull the front strut camber pin and tip the struts all the way to the center, which will get you somewhere between -0.5 and -1 front camber. This will help restore the balance, but if your rear is still >-2.0 it's less than ideal.
 

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How noticeable is SI RSB? Is it even worth the effort? I'm running SI springs on sport hatch. .5" drop is subtle, but still very noticeable, and IMO handling feels substantially better too.

I have Si springs on my '18 Sport MT for almost a year. Unlike the Si RSB, performance wise, change over has been remarkable all without harshness. Personally, I am not much into the "dropped look", rather, I am more inclined into performance. However, Si springs does lower car .5" overall. although I also had Si RSB at time of spring change, spring change was still remarkable. Then, I change to Whiteline 22mm RSB + Accord end links, and after a couple of weeks, added Whiteline front end links. So...long story short, regarding near edge of NVH and diminishing return on my PS4S tire performance/longevity, I am satisfied where I am at.
 

jayy_swish

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How noticeable is SI RSB? Is it even worth the effort? I'm running SI springs on sport hatch. .5" drop is subtle, but still very noticeable, and IMO handling feels substantially better too.
Hatch OEM RSB to whiteline RSB is pretty damn noticeable, you should see some improvement with an Si RSB but aftermarket is a thicker sway bar so it’ll be a bigger difference. Anything thicker than the hatch OEM RSB should be an improvement honestly though
 


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Everyone's in here clamoring about whether camber arms are worth it or not because tire life but only one person mentioned the other, potentially more important point.

Front camber will be largely unaffected by lowering springs because of the front strut suspension geometry.

The rear will see a substantial increase. This will cause a significant increase in understeer and in my experience with my Si, it absolutely ruined the balance and handling feel of the vehicle.

If you care about this, you need camber arms to be able to adjust the rear camber back down and correct the balance.

You can pull the front strut camber pin and tip the struts all the way to the center, which will get you somewhere between -0.5 and -1 front camber. This will help restore the balance, but if your rear is still >-2.0 it's less than ideal.
Do you think that the same too negative camber will affect the car with a Pro Kit?
Or i'ts less visible/incisive?!
 

JT Si

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Do you think that the same too negative camber will affect the car with a Pro Kit?
Or i'ts less visible/incisive?!
My experience is with the Swift springs for Si, which only dropped my car around 0.8-1" all around (my measurements after settling). Just that much drop was enough to ruin my balance.
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