Anyone with a bigger turbo upgrade in Europe?

szk4lpel

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Anger probably you know the 1,5t crv engine has the same rods and pistons as the SI? What about the turbo and the inlet pipe?



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Anger probably you know the 1,5t crv engine has the same rods and pistons as the SI? What about the turbo and the inlet pipe?
That is correct for USDM CR-Vs up until 2019. EUDM CR-V has the same pistons and turbo but the rods are non-Si. Inlet pipe is unique to the CRV because the intake resonator sits on top of the engine. I suppost the dimensions are similar if not identical to the Si
 

szk4lpel

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That is correct for USDM CR-Vs up until 2019. EUDM CR-V has the same pistons and turbo but the rods are non-Si. Inlet pipe is unique to the CRV because the intake resonator sits on top of the engine. I suppost the dimensions are similar if not identical to the Si
A was looking for a cheaper way to upgrade the pistons, rods and turbo... you can buy a crv engine for like 1000-1250€ in poland :) also found l15ba in 600-1000€ price range
 

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Well, if new pistons and turbo costs more than 1000euro, you can get the engine and use them. I do not remember if the valvetrain and camshafts are different between Si and non-Si, I need to look. Apart from that, there is not much else you can use. The engine block is the same

EDIT:

Ok so Civic Si has unique camshafts.
CRV has unique inlet camshaft and same as non-Si outlet camshaft.
Camshaft gears are the same across all 3 models

Part numbers between all 3 blocks are different but that has to do more with design between different chassis I assume.

What is interesting is the Injectors. Si and CRV are the same part number, non-Si is different.

Turbocharger between Si and CRV is the same, non-Si is different.

Pistons between Si and CRV is the same, non-Si is different

Connecting rods is unique to Si, CRV and non-Si is the same

Flywheel is unique to Si, clutch and pressure plate is the same across all models

Starter motor is the same between Si and non-Si, CRV is different
 
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szk4lpel

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Well, if new pistons and turbo costs more than 1000euro, you can get the engine and use them. I do not remember if the valvetrain and camshafts are different between Si and non-Si, I need to look. Apart from that, there is not much else you can use. The engine block is the same

EDIT:

Ok so Civic Si has unique camshafts.
CRV has unique inlet camshaft and same as non-Si outlet camshaft.
Camshaft gears are the same across all 3 models

Part numbers between all 3 blocks are different but that has to do more with design between different chassis I assume.

What is interesting is the Injectors. Si and CRV are the same part number, non-Si is different.

Turbocharger between Si and CRV is the same, non-Si is different.

Pistons between Si and CRV is the same, non-Si is different

Connecting rods is unique to Si, CRV and non-Si is the same

Flywheel is unique to Si, clutch and pressure plate is the same across all models

Starter motor is the same between Si and non-Si, CRV is different
I was hoping the rods are the same😂 nevermind... dont want to sacrifice reliability or blow engine so need to find and alternative. Neither want to go with a fully built motor with a forged block, just to be sure the rods can hold the torque. Anyone of you thinking about upgradeing the open diff to an lsd? I think it would be a major upgrade driveability wise, i get a lot of torquesteer and loosing traction in turns because of wheelspin.
 
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  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
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A good tuner knows how much the engine can be pushed. And I'm sticking by that.
 

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@Hondanickx I'm going to try two setups. One that is similar to the Mamba kit that requires housing modifications (the one currently being assembled) and one with an Si turbine wheel and a stock dimension billet compressor wheel that will not require machining.

@Anger If I had an Si turbo I just wouldn't bother with a turbo upgrade on base rods. Can you check on your MHI P/N inscribed on the turbo ? Does it end to 7100 or 701X ?
 

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@varge I see 49373( I think its a 3)-07101

20200905_154358.jpg
 
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Si turbo is 5PA non si Turbo is 5AA .
That's a Si turbo
 

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Yup, plain good Si turbo. You are mostly FBO, I'd just custom tune for 245 +/- healthy ponies
In case you ever go for the 27Won you have a buyer for your stock turbo :)
 

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sounds its like you said before @varge . A W1 will be an extra 15hp. I just have to weight wether or not I want to spend the $$. At least after your suggestions I am sure I will proceed with a clutch setup first.

My guess is also that a TIP even with a race maf isnt really worth it on a stock turbo. I ll try to custom tune within the next few months and take it from there depending on the results. ~240hp sounds like high expectations in my head cause the car s stated as 173hp so I think it will be awesome if it can pull off that number
 

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So what is the maximum boost pressure to run safely? I now am at 21 PSI and depending on various conditions, I may hit up to 20.9. Given that the rods are non-Si, what PSI is the maximum I can go for? Is it 21 as Ktuner has it or you guess think that 22 or 23 is viable? I see that people with the Si run even 25 PSI on a stock engine.

I am not asking about the clutch or the intercooler piping (although being stock has cross my mind that it could be an issue running higher boost), I am talking about the engine and the turbo.
 

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So what is the maximum boost pressure to run safely? I now am at 21 PSI and depending on various conditions, I may hit up to 20.9. Given that the rods are non-Si, what PSI is the maximum I can go for? Is it 21 as Ktuner has it or you guess think that 22 or 23 is viable? I see that people with the Si run even 25 PSI on a stock engine.
TSP Stage 1 for non SI is targeting 23 psi boost target. If I remember correctly, @Myx use SI turbo on non-SI with stock rods & piston, & custom tune. I don't remember the max boost target unfortunately.
 

varge

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One safe is different than another safe lol. Low end high boost is less safe than higher boost at higher rpm on the rods, but high boost at high rpm may be less safe for your pistons. As a rule of thumb 23psi around 4k rpm should be safe provided a/f and ignition are properly dialed.
With a bigger more efficient turbo it may be safe to run 25 at higher rpm.
Key word is "may". My suggestion is to finish your hardware build and head on for a custom tune.
I'm running 24ish on mine, that does not mean I suggest people should run 24psi on their cars :)
 

Anger

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One safe is different than another safe lol. Low end high boost is less safe than higher boost at higher rpm on the rods, but high boost at high rpm may be less safe for your pistons. As a rule of thumb 23psi around 4k rpm should be safe provided a/f and ignition are properly dialed.
With a bigger more efficient turbo it may be safe to run 25 at higher rpm.
Key word is "may". My suggestion is to finish your hardware build and head on for a custom tune.
I'm running 24ish on mine, that does not mean I suggest people should run 24psi on their cars :)
I am most certainly done with hardware, cant do much more other than a TIP which doesnt make much sense on a stock turbo, I will keep the street MAF and as far as the intercooler piping goes, it is almost impossible to install aftermarket piping. It will take a lot of time to design, fabricate and test fit them, since installing an aftermarket civic intercooler to a CRV was already a major deal. I also have the downpipe already installed. I will keep the stock exhaust including the front pipe.

From what I am reading and given that I am not interested in low to mid RPM torque, I will ask for 22 PSI, as high RPM as possible. Isnt is possible to do say 22 or 23 PSI from 4000rpm up to the rev limiter?

Sorry for the nooby questions, I have been running N/A cars for 15 years, this is my first turbo
 

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