Anyone with a bigger turbo upgrade in Europe?

[varge]

I am trying to remain silent lol. I'm quite convinced the 255-260whp mark is quite reachable with a nice fresh breath from the improved turbo and no further hardware change will be required. If the power goal was closer to 270-280 then yes, a catted DP should be required, but I'm not sure I want to venture north of 260 on a stock base motor.

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[varge]

So a used original MHI TD025 an a used original MHI TD03 were used as donors...What oil viscocity are you going to go with? Also, MHI said pre-oiling before installing is important for longevity! Any plans for a DP as well?

A used TD025 was the donor for the housing. Turbine and Compressor wheels are new, with TD03 dimensions.

 

[Hondanickx]

I also did 2 paypal payments in the past for other parts from the usa.But i don't think i'm going to risk this anymore.I think if the amount is plausible then the customs won't look any further ,but if they suspect anything they could ask paypal for the transactions you made on that specific date from you to the seller.So ideal you would pay 1 payment at for example 23.55h and the second one at 0.05 so they are made on a different date.

I still believe that 50% more power then stock for the stock engine to be the safe maximum.
Which would be 360nm and 273hp on the crank.Which is what most of us here are also going by.

 

[Vincent@27WON]

Now that I am done with the bolt-ons, I am also looking for a drop-in turbo.

I am doing something like 30000km a year, I commute 100km a day for work and go on roadtrips on my vacation. All branded aftermarket parts are high quality and reliable but I havent read about anyone who puts a lot of km on their car with an upgraded turbo.

I almost bought the MHI drop-in when I first saw it but then the 10w-40 oil viscocity put me off. I do not understand with such a thick oil is necessary when the Type-R runs a TD04 on 0w-20. Yes, different engines but the turbo temperatures are comparable. I do honestly believe that if you do frequent oil changes, such a thick oil isnt mandatory. I run Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30 and I guess that switching to 5w-30 should be fine for turbo longevity.

The W1 is a great choice but I have no idea how reliable they are after say 150000km. 27WON also suggests 5w-30 which makes perfect sense.

Question is, W1 or MHI running on 5w-30?....

We suggest a 5W-30 when power output is increased over 50% or when running ethanol-blended fuel.

 

[David228cx]

We suggest a 5W-30 when power output is increased over 50% or when running ethanol-blended fuel.

Would a 0w30 suffice? 5w30 seems too thick. I heard people on stock cars with no tune here in Europe getting oil pressure DTC because dealership used 5w30 instead of the 0w20 recommended...

Well, I got 235HP and 386Nm (at the crank, TSP 1, stock block) without downpipe but with the rest of the usual boltons.

A friend of mine with the PRL big turbo kit on a non si european hatch got 291hp and 410Nm.
So I'm hoping on reaching similar levels with the W1 on pump gas. You cannot find ethanol fuels here anywhere.

 

[Anger]

If W2 is ball bearing(which will probably be in my opinion), would it make sense to choose that over the W1 provided we do not want to exceed 250-260hp? ball bearing provides better spool but does it provide more reliability also?

I am THIS close to getting a 27WON turbo with the inlet pipe provided we figure out a way to import it to Europe without ridiculous customs charges but I am so confused about which turbo to choose. Importing in Europe is one of the main reasons I chose the PRL downpipe. I mean I could go for a hybrid like varge but I am scared of how reliable it will be in the long run.

Also, a race maf is MANDATORY or the street MAF will simply make less gains?

W1 or W2? Just a bit more juice for the engine without compromising reliability. Frequent oil changes is a given. 0w-30 in my head will be just fine with oil changes from 4000km to 6000km.

The best thing with 27WON is that they make their stuff drop-in. No weird installation process and after my IC installation which involved HUGE DYI and customization, I am not in for trouble again. Screw out, screw in and be done with it.

I am an early adopter in general but when it comes to the car, its a huge cost if something goes wrong. Keeping it reliable is the most important factor.

btw, the downpipe seems to help the car a lot. Its much more eager to spool and at higher RPMs its also better and I havent even done a custom tune. A/F ratio is 10.3 at WOT so a lot of fuel going in there, with a custom tune it will have significant gains

 

[David228cx]

Probably Vincent will be able to answer this better. But from a question I asked him and the released info so far it seems the target audience for the W2 are very big horsepower builds. North of 400 or more. Our base engine just won't be able to reach there without changing internals and parts of the fuel system. Besides, bigger turbo, more turbo lag as they stated. Our engine limiter is 6,5k rpm and shouldn't be upped. So you wouldn't really be able to fully utilise that W2 IMO. W1 seems like the better choice here. Even the W1 we will not max out

 

[Anger]

Probably Vincent will be able to answer this better. But from a question I asked him and the released info so far it seems the target audience for the W2 are very big horsepower builds. North of 400 or more. Our base engine just won't be able to reach there without changing internals and parts of the fuel system. Besides, bigger turbo, more turbo lag as they stated. Our engine limiter is 6,5k rpm and shouldn't be upped. So you wouldn't really be able to fully utilise that W2 IMO. W1 seems like the better choice here. Even the W1 we will not max out

Totally agree with you when it comes to overall gains. If W2 is ball bearing however, does it affect reliability? I prefer to lag and be certain that the turbo and engine will hold than have good spool after 3500rpm but be scared of a turbo or engine failure. The tuning will be done by a professional who has been tuning hondas for decades, so no issue there. I am scared of mechanical failures. I drive aggressively in general and I have been driving N/A Type-Rs since 2003 so my driving style is N/A. Downshifting before WOTing.

 

[David228cx]

It should last as much as the OE one. Keep in mind, the W1 already shifts the torque 500ish rpm later. The W2 would probably take that even further back the rpm.

So... Fully spooled turbo at 4K ? What's the usable rpm range then.. barely 2K? With a very lazy low and mid end torque? Our engine is more like a low-mid torque puncher. With that NA feel because of the small turbo. W1 seems a good compromise.

The most usable one in all the range for our engines seem the TD03 but I don't like that 10w40 thing at all.

Most tuners and companies seem to agree that the non si 1.5t maxxes out at 275whp, more or less. To increase that, change internals and fuel components.

 

[Anger]

Size-wise, I agree that the W1 is fine and I think maybe even better than TD03, because it moves torque and HP to higher RPMs. My only hold back is longevity of the turbo itself. MHI doesnt automatically mean its more reliable, its the brand name however that creates a feel of reassurance. Maybe I should just take my chances and go for the W1. Mind you that its a manual CRV and while the engine is a non-Si/Si hybrid, I dont think anyone else has tested the endurance of the main driveshaft, the rear diff and the rear drive shafts! Its not only the turbo and/or the engine I have to worry about! I just hope that since its a Honda, it can take it!

 

[David228cx]

Dopest CRV in Europe it will be. What mods do you have?

 

[Anger]

Dopest CRV in Europe it will be. What mods do you have?

Thanks! Full Honda Access Bodykit, JR28 19" gloss black wheels, original Mugen grill, INJEN intercooler, PRL SRI, PRL catted DP, Ktuner with tunerview and intake resonator delete. She tops out at 237km/h which is not bad at all! 0-400m is not good because it takes forever to switch gears. I do not have the rev hang delete option and the clutch delay valve is terrible. I need a flywheel and a clutch to achieve better gear changes

 

[varge]

@Anger with your power goal being 260whp 35kgm torque on stock rods, ANY turbo that is even SLIGHTLY better flower than stock will do the trick. If your CR-V has an Si turbo, DONT EVEN BOTHER, max it out around 245whp with a fat torque curve and forget it. It won't be worth the 2k for 10-15whp at best.

 

[varge]

parts and a used turbo have been sent for assembly ...
+ an FK7 with forged rods/pistons and a similar hybrid TD03 will be re-tuned on Monday. It made 260whp on the first tune back in February. Details to follow ...

 

[Hondanickx]

parts and a used turbo have been sent for assembly ...
+ an FK7 with forged rods/pistons and a similar hybrid TD03 will be re-tuned on Monday. It made 260whp on the first tune back in February. Details to follow ...

Are you going to use the Mamba td03 conversion kit with twin oil port trust bearing?
Mamba td03

Can i ask what do they charge for the machine work on the turbo ?

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