Any others have problems with the Whiteline RSB moving to one side of the car?

Shadowfighter

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Honda Civic 10th gen Any others have problems with the Whiteline RSB moving to one side of the car? IMG_20190911_170935
Honda Civic 10th gen Any others have problems with the Whiteline RSB moving to one side of the car? IMG_20190911_171001
Honda Civic 10th gen Any others have problems with the Whiteline RSB moving to one side of the car? IMG_20190911_171338
Honda Civic 10th gen Any others have problems with the Whiteline RSB moving to one side of the car? IMG_20190911_171507
I guess I'm one lucky guy because my Whiteline sway bar is moving to one side of the car.

Really surprised me because I never heard anyone having this problem with the rear sway bar and it seems like popular bar with great reviews.

I ordered the lateral locking system that Whiteline sells so hopefully that will solve the problem.
 
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JO3L

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You aren't alone in this. My bar shifted also as evident by the grease being smeared across the bar. The Whiteline lateral locks definitely do help to keep the bar centered. It would be nice if they already provided them in the kit like they do for some other vehicles, but the price of both the bar and lateral locks combined i still relatively cheap for such an effective handling mod.
 

KOIVUN1

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did either of you experience knocks or clunking after your installs? also were your installs as much of a PITA as mine was? the bolt on the upgraded end links is way too long coupled with the stiff af ball joint it and the minimal wrenching space between the control arms it took me 2 hours to get everything in the first time. after 5 attempts consisting of either regreasing the bushings, switching back to stock end links, switching back to the adjustable links, then putting the oem nuts on instead of those crimp nuts because you'll tear out the hex recess after enough time with those nuts, and then finally getting accord end links and still not being able to get rid of the clunk, i put the stock rsb back in because i couldn't stand pulling up to meets and going over a bump and it sounding like i got major issues. i have no clue how everyone else with this rsb could torque it down so much given there's only like 3 inches of room to move the wrench with your hand. frustrating beyond belief.
 

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did either of you experience knocks or clunking after your installs?
clunk= loose end link almost 100% of the time. Tripple check your work.
 

KOIVUN1

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clunk= loose end link almost 100% of the time. Tripple check your work.
any tips or tricks to torque those nuts? hardly enough room even for the wrench and holding the allen key is even harder
 


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any tips or tricks to torque those nuts? hardly enough room even for the wrench and holding the allen key is even harder
I empathize with you all so much. This particular nut on my Whiteline 26mm RSB had me fuming until I got it torqued right. Regarding clearance, getting it on a lift will help with your body strain but it’s still tight no matter what. For holding the allen key, let it torque itself against the control arm while you turn the ratcheting box wrench, BUT first put something between the allen key and the control arm so that you can slide it out afterwards, leaving the allen key enough slack to remove. Otherwise, the key will get extremely torqued and stuck to the arm.
 

KOIVUN1

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I empathize with you all so much. This particular nut on my Whiteline 26mm RSB had me fuming until I got it torqued right. Regarding clearance, getting it on a lift will help with your body strain but it’s still tight no matter what. For holding the allen key, let it torque itself against the control arm while you turn the ratcheting box wrench, BUT first put something between the allen key and the control arm so that you can slide it out afterwards, leaving the allen key enough slack to remove. Otherwise, the key will get extremely torqued and stuck to the arm.
A couple of things, first i used the nuts that came with the whiteline end links , then after some research i found that those nuts are a funky type, they're crimped in a press (as indicated by the pinch marks on two opposing faces of the nut), and they're basically slightly elliptical in the threads so it acts similar to a nylock nut by basically putting up to the vibration to deform the threads in order to loosen the nut, thus 'locking' the nut in place.
However, these nuts over the long term tend to destroy the threads on both the nut and the bolt, leaving the nut practically seized on the bolt and given the small area to work on, renders it nearly impossible to unscrew so you'd have to grind it off or use a nut buster. After finding this out, I put the oem end link nuts back on, but they turned out to be a little too soft and small for the torque that is evidently necessary for no clunk, so I went to Lowe's and bought two stainless M10X1.25 nuts, since the oem, the whiteline, and the aluminum accord end links are all that thread size.
Also, the whiteline adjustable end links are pretty garbage imo; the threads where it contacts the sway bar are completely flattened, and the bolt is way too long to get them inserted into the sway bar with any amount of ease, and even at their shortest setting they're still longer than oem which is pointless at that point.
For clearance, i have two floor jacks and two jack stands and two ramps and since i'm not even in my 20's, i don't necessarily have the room or money to have a lift, whether it's one like in the mechanics' shops or one of those portable scissor jack lifts. But seeing as I can fit under the car when it's still on the ground with only a little bit of squeezing, the jacks give me more than enough room to work.
I couldn't think of anything to put in between the key and the control arm, best i could find was a deep socket, and even then the key had so much spring in it that even after taking the socket out, it was still torqued stuck to the control arm. I ended up buying a 17mm combination wrench because of the limited room, but i'm not sure if getting a flex head combo wrench would make it easier or harder.
I read all over that with sway bars you gotta worry about preload, and you have to load the driver's side with stuff amounting up to your weight so as to simulate ride height with you in it, but i also know that that type of stuff is only really for people tuning their suspension for track and stuff, aka it affect much for someone like me.
I wonder though, what is the right/easiest order of operations? Install end links, torque tf outta them, then install entire sway bar with end links already on? Install sway bar, install end links in control arm, then try to fit end links into sway bar? Or install sway bar, install and somehow torque end links in sway bar, then put end links in control arm? Without the sway bar restricted from movement I don't see a way to torque the end links seeing as the whole sway bar moves after like 15 ft/lbs of torque.
Here's hoping you actually read this haha, I'd really appreciate your input. :)
 

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I empathize with you all so much. This particular nut on my Whiteline 26mm RSB had me fuming until I got it torqued right. Regarding clearance, getting it on a lift will help with your body strain but it’s still tight no matter what. For holding the allen key, let it torque itself against the control arm while you turn the ratcheting box wrench, BUT first put something between the allen key and the control arm so that you can slide it out afterwards, leaving the allen key enough slack to remove. Otherwise, the key will get extremely torqued and stuck to the arm.
also we have the exact same car! '17 Touring CBP. Think about making your wheels black, I posted in a thread how i painted mine, the chrome became repulsive to me, and the black makes the car look 10x better
 
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....I wonder though, what is the right/easiest order of operations? Install end links, torque tf outta them, then install entire sway bar with end links already on? Install sway bar, install end links in control arm, then try to fit end links into sway bar? Or install sway bar, install and somehow torque end links in sway bar, then put end links in control arm? Without the sway bar restricted from movement I don't see a way to torque the end links seeing as the whole sway bar moves after like 15 ft/lbs of torque.
Here's hoping you actually read this haha, I'd really appreciate your input. :)
You definitely ain't alone, this install was a nightmare for me as well. I don't know if the sway bar would fit into place with the endlinks already on. I had to remove a wheel and lower the control arm to even fit in the 26mm bar by itself. Next I attached the endlinks to the sway bar and torqued it well with threadlocker. Then I finessed the endlinks into the control arms. Getting the bolts through these endlinks will be the hardest part, you might need some percussive persuasion. When its done, go back and torque everything one last time. If you hear clunking, like turbociv910 said its almost 100% the endlink-swaybar nut being loose.
 

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The exact reason to go with accord endlinks over upgraded ;) Oof.

Yes, get the lateral locks installed after you re-center it. Saw this on someone's front sway but same can happen with rear. Least it's a fairly inexpensive remedy.
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