Any benefit with the more costly camber arm kits?

ToofHurts

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Eibach ($360) vs SPC ($175) vs Hardrace ($240) vs ... the all mighty RV6 ($600)

Any benefits with spending more?
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You've listed the price for 1x Rear Camber Arm for SPC, you'll need to add Quantity 2. We're not sure why SPC does this, and almost all dealers follow suit. We price and sell them as a pair only, which shows the accurate cost to just under $350. There is no difference between SPC and Eibach, just color and branding, we have the SPC Kit on our CTR, and on our site:

https://unity-performance.com/products/spc-performance-rear-camber-kit-civic-type-r-1
 

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So eibach and SPC is the upper rear camber arm, and RV6 is the rear plus the sway bar. The rear is much easier to install and plus the stiffer sway bar, but if you don't need the sway bar, then SPC or Eibach is the better cheaper way.

The upper rear cam is a pain to install mainly due to the upper side bolt where is next to the gas tank and leave almost no space for play. You will need to manually lose the bolt use a wrench and it will take a lot of time as you can only turn a quarter turn each time.

Again, if you want rear sway bar and easy installation, go for the RV6. otherwise, SPC or Eibach will do the job.
 
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ToofHurts

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So eibach and SPC is the upper rear camber arm, and RV6 is the rear plus the sway bar. The rear is much easier to install and plus the stiffer sway bar, but if you don't need the sway bar, then SPC or Eibach is the better cheaper way.

The upper rear cam is a pain to install mainly due to the upper side bolt where is next to the gas tank and leave almost no space for play. You will need to manually lose the bolt use a wrench and it will take a lot of time as you can only turn a quarter turn each time.

Again, if you want rear sway bar and easy installation, go for the RV6. otherwise, SPC or Eibach will do the job.
I don’t think the RV6 rear camber arms comes with the sway bar.
 


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ToofHurts

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yeah. just asking about the price jump from the others to the rv6. If there’s a benefit.
 
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ToofHurts

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I may just opt for the RV6 piece. Seems super robust. I like the locking plate so no chance for any loosening after alignment, used by the racing teams, and looks killer. Hell. It’s only money at this point.
 

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Well, the major benefit is RV6 tested with Honda on track. So, it is guarantee to stand a punch at track. For street only, no point.
 

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Ok, here is a newbie question. What are you trying to achieve with the rear control arms on a lowered car?
 


Dave B

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More negative camber on the rear. Stock camber will not be enough if you track and push the car to the limit.
How much camber do you want in the rear? Doesn't the car understeer anyway? I would have thought increasing rear camber would only make this worse.

What camber changes do you see when lowering the car without the arms?
 

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How much camber do you want in the rear? Doesn't the car understeer anyway? I would have thought increasing rear camber would only make this worse.

What camber changes do you see when lowering the car without the arms?
Currently running -3, -3 front, and -2.5, -2.5 rear. much more stable compare to stock -1 ish camber.
Yes, if you only increase the rear camber it will not help the car. This is way camber mod will need both front and rear to get you the sweet spot for the track or street.

if you not going to push the car to the limit, no need for any mods. you will be better stay stock.
 

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Currently running -3, -3 front, and -2.5, -2.5 rear. much more stable compare to stock -1 ish camber.
Yes, if you only increase the rear camber it will not help the car. This is way camber mod will need both front and rear to get you the sweet spot for the track or street.

if you not going to push the car to the limit, no need for any mods. you will be better stay stock.
For me, I already have Hardrace front ball joints, but I am not so sure I want to increase rear grip as much as the front. OtOH, I am on stock springs.
 

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For me, I already have Hardrace front ball joints, but I am not so sure I want to increase rear grip as much as the front. OtOH, I am on stock springs.
usually from my alignment guy, he will suggest me to do -2.5 front and -2 rear for street spec and keet -3 to -3.5 front and -2.5 rear on track spec.
it is not like it will harm the car if you do -2 front and -1 stock rear. It just will make the car much more like to slide on the rear on turn in. Definitely fine for street, but for track you will want a little bit less slide but keep the rotation.
Again, if you not tracking or putting some 285 tire on the rear, no need for the rear camber arm.
 

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usually from my alignment guy, he will suggest me to do -2.5 front and -2 rear for street spec and keet -3 to -3.5 front and -2.5 rear on track spec.
it is not like it will harm the car if you do -2 front and -1 stock rear. It just will make the car much more like to slide on the rear on turn in. Definitely fine for street, but for track you will want a little bit less slide but keep the rotation.
Again, if you not tracking or putting some 285 tire on the rear, no need for the rear camber arm.
Well, I will definitely be tracking the car on 265/35-18 tires which is why I have the Hardrace ball joints which will clearly help front end grip. I have done some preliminary track days with the stock Contis and alignment and despite the understeer being better than most front drivers, it is still there. I DO want the rear end to be more loose that the OEM design i.e. what better way to rotate the car? The question becomes what balance the driver is comfortable with. If you can't apply power soon enough as the car hasn't rotated, you won't be fast. BTW, I am coming from a C5Z06 Corvette track car where balance is often guided by your right foot. That car is a lot of fun but can get you in to trouble pretty quickly too.
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