Aftermarket sub for Touring

[Slickone]

From every test I could perform using Room EQ Wizard and a calibrated mic, I could not detect any reduction in frequencies. I purchased an LC2I and other than the sub volume control feature, I likewise didn't detect any improvement with the LC2I bass frequency restorer. Nonetheless, I think the LC2I conversion of high-level to low level input is excellent for use on a separate amp coupled, and when coupled with the volume control, the LC2I an excellent option for someone wanting to install a separate amp and sub.

Good info. Some/someone on here said otherwise. You should create a new thread, maybe with some screenshots, etc.

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[mtserino]

Hi guys, this is my first time posting, brand new to the forums, just got my first civic and have never installed a sub before so please excuse my ignorance. I have the EX-T so I don't have the separate wires going to where the touring sub would be and only barely understand the concept of the filtering out of low frequencies etc...

Anyways like many others I find the bass lacking and am deciding between the Rockford Fosgate P300 10 inch or 12 inch. Any suggestions for one size versus the other? Also for someone who is not an audiophile but just wants good bass for rap music (Travis Scott) do you still think I need the LC21? I'm not looking for obnoxiously loud bass. Is there anything else I need to buy in advance before I bring it somewhere to have it professionally installed? Thanks so much for any help.

 

[accordingtocivic]

Major thread bump, but I'm really excited about this.

I just ordered a JBL GT-BassPro 12" Powered Subwoofer, set to arrive between next Thursday and Saturday. I can't take this factory sub anymore, it's just got no power to it. I was originally going to purchase the RF P300-10, but Amazon decided to be a b*tch about things and reserve it for Prime-only members 2 days ago. That bumped the price up $20, and in finding the JBL 12" for $179, it was a no-brainer. Will update on progress come next weekend!

EDIT: Scratch that. I cancelled the JBL order and went with a used RF P300-10 for $140. Amazon says there is less than 5% cosmetic damage on the top, so I'm willing to accept that tradeoff. Will still update of course.

EDIT #2: It also appears that this thread is full of members who are no longer active on the forum, lol.

 

[exyia]

Major thread bump, but I'm really excited about this.

I just ordered a JBL GT-BassPro 12" Powered Subwoofer, set to arrive between next Thursday and Saturday. I can't take this factory sub anymore, it's just got no power to it. I was originally going to purchase the RF P300-10, but Amazon decided to be a b*tch about things and reserve it for Prime-only members 2 days ago. That bumped the price up $20, and in finding the JBL 12" for $179, it was a no-brainer. Will update on progress come next weekend!

EDIT: Scratch that. I cancelled the JBL order and went with a used RF P300-10 for $140. Amazon says there is less than 5% cosmetic damage on the top, so I'm willing to accept that tradeoff. Will still update of course.

EDIT #2: It also appears that this thread is full of members who are no longer active on the forum, lol.

Please do report with updates. I haven't pulled the trigger on any upgrades because there are so many people with non-Touring models chiming in on what upgrades/additions they made, and then there are some reporting that the OEM audio configuration on Touring models complicates modifications/upgrades.

 

[accordingtocivic]

Please do report with updates. I haven't pulled the trigger on any upgrades because there are so many people with non-Touring models chiming in on what upgrades/additions they made, and then there are some reporting that the OEM audio configuration on Touring models complicates modifications/upgrades.

I plan on posting pictures going through each step, like others did earlier in the thread. It looks like @Mgo took the wires directly from the factory sub and connected them using the speaker harness on Amazon. It doesn't sound like anyone who's installed a sub in the Touring models had issues with audio configurations afterwards, just gotta know what you're installing/plugging into. I remember using something like that harness when I put in rear deck Polk speakers in my old '98 Accord, and it worked flawlessly. The amp kit should be here between Thursday and Saturday, and then by next Tuesday for the sub, so I'll put in the wiring beforehand, leaving just a "plug-and-play" for the sub the following week.

 

[2016TouringSLC]

I have a Touring model. I took the sub speaker wires from the trunk, ran them through an AudioControl LC2i converter with AccuBass, and out to an Alpine sub amp connected to a 10" inch box sub. Works great with plenty of bass.

 

[accordingtocivic]

Here's the picture of how I have it grounded. I did not have to drill holes in my car anywhere. Not running the power wire to the battery or the ground in the trunk.

Did you not scrap the paint away where the terminal is connected to the frame? Or is it just covering up where you scraped so it's not visible anyway?

 

[accordingtocivic]

Just finished the wiring setup. The longest process was definitely routing the power wire from the battery to the trunk. I'll post pictures later when the weather isn't so crappy. All that's left to do is just connect the power, ground, and audio cables to the subwoofer Monday night.

 

[accordingtocivic]

Here is sort of a step-by-step of what I did for the wiring:

For the power routing from the battery to the trunk, I fed the non-fuse end of the cable through the opening in the foam where the hood latch wiring runs and then curved it around the edge of that frame section shown, eventually leading to the fuse and the terminal that will get attached to the positive end of the battery. I couldn't really find a good spot to mount the fuse to, but it seems fine resting in the gap next to the fuse box and that frame edge.

Apologies for the terrible quality here, but I managed to then get the power wire through the grommet right behind the hood release. I have no idea how others here got the grommet back in place, as that inside diameter seems to just be large enough for the other wiring to go through, so I just left it on the wire, just not re-attached. Seems fine. I used a coat hanger to pull the wiring through, which was the most difficult part.

As for going through the interior, I chose not to run the power wire under any trimming at all. It would've included taking the hood release, seat belt assembly, both door sills, and the trim next to the rear seats off, which I wasn't interested in/very willing to do. This way was a lot safer in my eyes, and I can always put some split loom tubing around the exposed parts. I plan on doing that later down the road, actually, both here and on the driver door sill. (Ain't that a badass windshield scraper? XD)

Last but not least, the trunk. I used the lower hole on the top frame area by the right speaker for the ground wire, connected the speaker harness directly to the factory sub wiring and then stripped & crimped the speaker wiring (Stinger PRO Series 16 Gauge) to the harness wires. As previously stated, I'm just waiting for the sub to arrive tomorrow to hook everything up. I don't expect it to take long at all... probably gonna post tomorrow evening as well with a final take and review!

 

[2016TouringSLC]

Nice job. Just how I did it, except I did run the wire under most of the trim (at least that which was easily removable). One difference, I removed the bolt from the sensor to the left of your ground (it senses when you leave keys in the trunk). I sanded the paint to the bare metal and then just used the existing bolt. Then ran the ground wire to the side, down through the carpet, and out at the bottom. Did the same on the other side with the subwoofer speaker wires. Anxious to see your finished product -- and that is a bad-ass window scraper.

 

[accordingtocivic]

Gotcha. Yeah I'm glad I did this all myself - beats spending literally $500 to have an audio shop do the work when I can get it done myself for almost less than $200. It really helped watching a friend from high school do my first install in the summer of 2015 - an 8" powered sub from Sound Ordnance, and that sounded great to me. I can only imagine how great the RF P300-10 is gonna be!

EDIT: I haven't read anywhere on this thread of it being an issue, but since the factory sub is disconnected in the process, I would think the rear deck/brake light rattle is gone, and any rattles created are purely from the new sub's better bass?

EDIT #2: The sub arrived around 2pm, but I didn't get home until 7 after class ended, and it's been a rainy couple days in the Badger state, so I hope to/plan on installing it tomorrow afternoon when I'm home longer.

 

[accordingtocivic]

Got it all hooked up! Took some finagling and a call from Crutchfield Tech Support regarding the audio signal, but I did get it working - boy does it sound good! I haven't messed with the settings too much, though the gain is just above minimum... plenty of bass even at that level. Again, I'll post a picture of the final setup later. Whoo!

 

[Priceless_Civic]

I thought I'd bring this forum back to life with a question! Has anyone had electrical problems with running their power wire through the front fender? I'm going to install a 12" JL Audio sub but I'm having a local audio shop build a custom box for me and they are "concerned" that the power wire I've run like everyone else on this forum is a fire hazard. Granted, I'm not a dummy when it comes to electrical stuff but I don't feel like running it through the fender well is that much more dangerous than going through the front of the firewall! I'm sure they just want to sell me on rewiring the power but I'm not quick to fall for those kinds of tricks! Thoughts?

 

[josby]

they are "concerned" that the power wire I've run like everyone else on this forum is a fire hazard.

That's weird - it's always strongly recommended to put a fuse as close to the battery as possible solely for this reason. As long as you've done that, I can't see how there's a fire hazard. If the wire insulation wears through and grounds to the chassis, the fuse will blow and the circuit will be broken. As long as the fuse is properly sized to the wire, the wire won't get hot enough to cause a fire before the fuse blows.

Backing this up is the fact that IASCA's SPL rulebook for their higher level competition classes says "Fusing is not required, however, if vehicle system is not fused, competitor is required to have an A/B/C rated fire extinguisher with the vehicle while in the competition lanes."

I.e. if you have a fuse on your power wire, they're not worried your car's going to catch fire.

 

[Trey]

I thought I'd bring this forum back to life with a question! Has anyone had electrical problems with running their power wire through the front fender? I'm going to install a 12" JL Audio sub but I'm having a local audio shop build a custom box for me and they are "concerned" that the power wire I've run like everyone else on this forum is a fire hazard. Granted, I'm not a dummy when it comes to electrical stuff but I don't feel like running it through the fender well is that much more dangerous than going through the front of the firewall! I'm sure they just want to sell me on rewiring the power but I'm not quick to fall for those kinds of tricks! Thoughts?

They just want to run one themselves and charge you for it. Your wire is sufficient.

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