Aftermarket sub for Touring

[kpat]

Per Honda:

• 160-Watt 4 Speaker AM/FM Audio System
• 180-Watt 8 Speaker AM/FM Audio System
• 450-Watt 10 Speaker (Including Sub-Woofer) AM/FM Audio System

In reality, these specs are essentially meaningless other than to establish that the Premium system has "more" watts than the top two systems.

BLUF: I was interested in the power being specifically supplied to just the stock sub.

Hmm. Here's the issue I'm running into which I cannot seem to find an answer. My speaker knowledge isn't a super strong point for me so bare with me. I'm trying to hook up a aftermarket sub which lead me to this forum. I have the touring which obviously already has a really terrible stock sub in it. This may be where I have things confused but I thought the amp was specifically there to power the sub(?) which is why I assumed the 450 watts was the power of all the other speakers together excluding the stock sub. I was looking into using the current amp in the car to power an aftermarket sub but if the 450 watts is distributed to all of the speakers even if the sub uses the majority of the power I feel it won't be enough wattage for a good aftermarket one.

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[Mgo]

BLUF: I was interested in the power being specifically supplied to just the stock sub.

Hmm. Here's the issue I'm running into which I cannot seem to find an answer. My speaker knowledge isn't a super strong point for me so bare with me. I'm trying to hook up a aftermarket sub which lead me to this forum. I have the touring which obviously already has a really terrible stock sub in it. This may be where I have things confused but I thought the amp was specifically there to power the sub(?) which is why I assumed the 450 watts was the power of all the other speakers together excluding the stock sub. I was looking into using the current amp in the car to power an aftermarket sub but if the 450 watts is distributed to all of the speakers even if the sub uses the majority of the power I feel it won't be enough wattage for a good aftermarket one.

If you're interested in adding an after market sub you are going to need to add an amplifier. You could hook it up to the stock wiring but it will give you no improvement in sound quality. I recommend the Rockford Fosgate P3000 that a few of us have installed. if you have the touring all you need to do is get a wire harness and you can use the stock wires then all you need to do is hook it up to power and that's it.

 

[Slickone]

BLUF: I was interested in the power being specifically supplied to just the stock sub.

Hmm. Here's the issue I'm running into which I cannot seem to find an answer. My speaker knowledge isn't a super strong point for me so bare with me. I'm trying to hook up a aftermarket sub which lead me to this forum. I have the touring which obviously already has a really terrible stock sub in it. This may be where I have things confused but I thought the amp was specifically there to power the sub(?) which is why I assumed the 450 watts was the power of all the other speakers together excluding the stock sub. I was looking into using the current amp in the car to power an aftermarket sub but if the 450 watts is distributed to all of the speakers even if the sub uses the majority of the power I feel it won't be enough wattage for a good aftermarket one.

Maybe you could look at the amp and see? It looks like it's in the passenger's kick panel.
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~unit~audio~amp~39186-TBG-A01.html
https://estore.honda.com/honda/part...m=2016-civic-2-tour-turbo-cvt&sn=&b=B++16&dl=

 

[2016TouringSLC]

BLUF: I was interested in the power being specifically supplied to just the stock sub.

If the 450 watts is distributed to all of the speakers even if the sub uses the majority of the power I feel it won't be enough wattage for a good aftermarket one.

I think you're right that the amp distributes a max of 450 watts among all channels based on the demands of the material.

I did exactly what you're suggesting and just connected the sub speaker wire to a 10" sealed sub box. It put out some sound, but being in the trunk, it wasn't even as loud as the stock sub (even though it did eliminate the buzz and rattle from the back deck). If you got a super-efficient driver in a ported box, you might get enough SPL from the stock amp to make you happy but it wouldn't be kicking any butt.

A separate sub and amp is the best way to go, and I found that removing the stock sub from the stock amp allowed the other channels to sound slightly cleaner.

 

[mvizzion]

I just got a JL Audio Powerwedge+ (10") put in and, honestly, I'm disappointed. It's hooked in via the stock sub speaker wire. My $150 Rockford in my 2008 Civic is punchier and fuller. That is hooked up via RCA to a Pioneer 4000NEX head unit, but would that make much of a difference? Trying to figure out if I need to go with a smaller (8") sub to get tighter response, punchier notes, or what. I listen with the sub at 1/3 volume to get it to blend properly with the rest of the system, but it's just not doing what I'd hoped. I wasn't thrilled with my Rockford (also didn't hit as clean and hard as I'd hoped), but compared to what I'm getting now, it sounds better.

Any thoughts?

 

[classmarcher]

I believe you would need a separate amp for the JL audio...is your Rockford a P300 10 or 12inch?

 

[mvizzion]

I believe you would need a separate amp for the JL audio...is your Rockford a P300 10 or 12inch?

The JL Audio is powered, and the Rockford is a P300 10"

 

[classmarcher]

the jl audio has its own amp already?

 

[Slickone]

I just got a JL Audio Powerwedge+ (10") put in and, honestly, I'm disappointed. It's hooked in via the stock sub speaker wire. My $150 Rockford in my 2008 Civic is punchier and fuller. That is hooked up via RCA to a Pioneer 4000NEX head unit, but would that make much of a difference? Trying to figure out if I need to go with a smaller (8") sub to get tighter response, punchier notes, or what. I listen with the sub at 1/3 volume to get it to blend properly with the rest of the system, but it's just not doing what I'd hoped. I wasn't thrilled with my Rockford (also didn't hit as clean and hard as I'd hoped), but compared to what I'm getting now, it sounds better.

Any thoughts?

The first page of this thread mentions how the stock HU cuts lower frequencies to the rear the more you turn the volume up, and using an AudioControl LC2I to stop it.

 

[Brandons2697]

I got a MTX Terminator and I couldn't be happier with the results. It sits perfectly in the back and is definitely strong. I highly recommend it to all

 

[mvizzion]

I've just ordered an AudioControl LC2I to convert the high level to line level inputs. This device has a bass restorer that I hope will allow me to better EQ the sub.

Did you ever get this installed? I don't know how to tell if the sub is getting enough of the range to play properly? I have a JL Audio Powerwedge+ installed and it *seems* to be getting all the notes (I don't notice a bass drop-off when I up the volume), but I'd love to know if anyone has confirmed this or not? I would really prefer not to have to install an LC2I if possible...

 

[mvizzion]

The first page of this thread mentions how the stock HU cuts lower frequencies to the rear the more you turn the volume up, and using an AudioControl LC2I to stop it.

I re-read the posts on the first page, and don't see a post confirming that—did I miss something? I know some HUs do that, but where the Touring has a factory sub, I've got to think that it's getting the right frequencies, regardless of volume? I don't notice any drop-off, but don't know how to tell for sure...

 

[2016TouringSLC]

From every test I could perform using Room EQ Wizard and a calibrated mic, I could not detect any reduction in frequencies. I purchased an LC2I and other than the sub volume control feature, I likewise didn't detect any improvement with the LC2I bass restorer. Nonetheless, I think the LC2I conversion of high-level to low level inputs is excellent for use on a separate amp, and when coupled with the volume control, the LC2I an excellent option for someone wanting to install a separate amp and sub.

 

[mvizzion]

From every test I could perform using Room EQ Wizard and a calibrated mic, I could not detect any reduction in frequencies. I purchased an LC2I and other than the sub volume control feature, I likewise didn't detect any improvement with the LC2I bass frequency restorer. Nonetheless, I think the LC2I conversion of high-level to low level input is excellent for use on a separate amp coupled, and when coupled with the volume control, the LC2I an excellent option for someone wanting to install a separate amp and sub.

Awesome, good to know!

 

[mvizzion]

I just got a JL Audio Powerwedge+ (10") put in and, honestly, I'm disappointed.

Also, (just to follow up), I took a closer look and realized that the guys put in the ported version of the JL Powerwedge+, vs. the sealed. After switching it out for the sealed version, it's much punchier.

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