Adding fuse tap to cabin fuse box

M1KL83

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Collision mitigating braking system. Uses a front camera sensor thingy to help make sure you don't hit something
Cool thanks!

Which model of Civic do you have? I have a 2018 Hatchback LX (Canada) similar to the US EX I believe.

Did you consider slot #1 ACCESSORY or not at all? Slot #17 only being a 5A seemed a bit low to me but probably not for the little draw appliances we are adding on.
I'm looking for remote turn on for my Audio processor/amp.

Cheers
 

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I have a 2018 USDM sport hatchback. I never considered #17 since I figured it'd be safer (at least in my head) to use a fuse slot that had no other purpose in my car.

As far as I know, your amp remote turn-on line is simply a power sensing line to trigger a relay internal to the amp. If anything in the world makes any sense, that'd be a super low current draw
 

M1KL83

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I have a 2018 USDM sport hatchback. I never considered #17 since I figured it'd be safer (at least in my head) to use a fuse slot that had no other purpose in my car.

As far as I know, your amp remote turn-on line is simply a power sensing line to trigger a relay internal to the amp. If anything in the world makes any sense, that'd be a super low current draw
Cool sounds good. I'm pretty sure when I used my multimeter on slot 17 for the Collision mitigation response camera 5A, that it was getting constant current to that fuse (when the car is off and not in accessory mode) but I guess that's what you want if you're running a dash cam off of it. I'll double check that though. My car doesn't have any of the Honda Sense added safety features either, but I'll have to double check it doesnt have adaptive cruise ; Only standard cruise control.
For slot slot 1 ACCESSORY I'm not sure what option/purpose it supplies if anything, I just like that it only gets current when in acc mode and or car is running.

Cheers
 

wdrx02

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I have a 2018 EX HB and, recently bought a hardwire fuse tap kit for my dash cam as well.
I too looked at the fuse box but couldn't determine which is constantly on to the battery.
I do not have the Honda sensing - so what is a good constant fuse to use?

I do not wish to use the cigarettes' lighter for the obscure reasons too and, like to have that free incase I need it for other accessories/devices.
 


bikejog

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I do not wish to use the cigarettes' lighter for the obscure reasons too and, like to have that free incase I need it for other accessories/devices.
The Cigarette Lighter socket is not constant hot. It's switched. If you worry about loosing the socket, you can get an extension that will give you more than one sockets or you can T-tap into the wire from behind. Although if you just plug into the socket, then the wiring might visible to the thieves.

And make sure you don't run a high power amp from it *AND* also run a vacuum/inflator or something because the 25A fuse will probably blow. Hey, but either that or go thru the big trouble of running wires to the battery. If I'm wiring a 100 or 200 W amp, I'd use the 12V socket.
 

wdrx02

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The Cigarette Lighter socket is not constant hot. It's switched. If you worry about loosing the socket, you can get an extension that will give you more than one sockets or you can T-tap into the wire from behind. Although if you just plug into the socket, then the wiring might visible to the thieves.

And make sure you don't run a high power amp from it *AND* also run a vacuum/inflator or something because the 25A fuse will probably blow. Hey, but either that or go thru the big trouble of running wires to the battery. If I'm wiring a 100 or 200 W amp, I'd use the 12V socket.
Yes, the reasons you mentioned are a few of why I got a hardwire kit to the internal fuse box.

1) Cleaner look
2) Theft prevention/obscure
3) Free the outlet incase I want to use my portable vacuum, radar or other accessories.

I am glad to here that the cig. isn't a constant on like older cars. I was a bit concerned about this as it could easily drain the battery when the car is off. However, for those that are wanting the same as me.

I have found the following:

#1 (10) is the accessory = Will turn on when you have ignition onto accessory mode
#16 (20) is constant = Always on from battery even when car is turned off


Thanks
 
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bikejog

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I have found the following:

#1 (10) is the accessory = Will turn on when you have ignition onto accessory mode
#16 (20) is constant = Always on from battery even when car is turned off
There's nothing wrong with that. However, as you've found, the ACC circuit is only 10A and you'll be sharing it with the head unit and whatever else is connected to it. So let's say the car's ACC consumes 5A, then that only leaves you with 5A to use. So I say if you need a switched power, best to tap the 12V Socket. Vacuum and inflator is only about 100W or about 10A. That leaves 10A to spare. And as long as you don't crank it all the way up when you vacuum or inflate a tire, then it'll never trip.

EDIT: And what's #16? Door Lock? Now, why would anyone want to steal power from the door lock? The fuse is selected to provide the appropriate amount power to the circuit being protected. I'm not sure if it has any power to share. The only circuit that's meant to power consumer's devices is the 12V socket.
 
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CopperPeacock

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When I did my radar detector there was a switched fuse slot open somewhere in the middle.

Whenever I'm installing stuff I always check the open fuse slots first so I'm not hijacking anything the car actually uses. If the fuse isn't there, your car doesn't have that option.

The add-a-fuse style taps are perfectly fine for low current devices like cams and radars. The little gold push-in-with-the-fuse style are not.

I wouldn't run a whole inside/outside lighting kit off of one tho.
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