rive
Senior Member
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2018
- Threads
- 2
- Messages
- 107
- Reaction score
- 193
- Location
- TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Civic Si Sedan
- Thread starter
- #1
I tried searching if anyone has done this and so far I haven't seen it, but please correct me if I just missed it. I have the ten speaker factory system in my Si and, like everyone, have noticed it sounds alright until it gets down to the lower frequencies where it doesn't sound like anything at all. I'm not trying to get incredible sound out of the Civic. All I want to do is improve the factory signal reduction from 20-80 hz. I completely understand why anyone who wants to improve sound has either tossed and replaced the admittedly laughable factory subwoofer or circumvented it entirely with a separate sub, then amplified that new equipment.
But I keep seeing everyone saying "it's not enough to replace the sub, you still need an amp because the problem is that there simply isn't enough power going to the sub to begin with." So has anyone tried just adding a monobloc amp onto the factory sub to see what it can do if it actually receives power? If i'm not upgrading the rest of the speakers, then it theoretically could end up being a good match for timbre and output levels. And if it doesn't work, a driver swap is always still an option. I was thinking something like this unit from JL could do the trick. http://www.jlaudio.com/mx300-1-car-audio-mx-amplifiers-98406 I'm not a car audio expert, so please feel free to point out all the ways this idea won't work. Or, if anyone has done it, I would love to hear your impressions.
But I keep seeing everyone saying "it's not enough to replace the sub, you still need an amp because the problem is that there simply isn't enough power going to the sub to begin with." So has anyone tried just adding a monobloc amp onto the factory sub to see what it can do if it actually receives power? If i'm not upgrading the rest of the speakers, then it theoretically could end up being a good match for timbre and output levels. And if it doesn't work, a driver swap is always still an option. I was thinking something like this unit from JL could do the trick. http://www.jlaudio.com/mx300-1-car-audio-mx-amplifiers-98406 I'm not a car audio expert, so please feel free to point out all the ways this idea won't work. Or, if anyone has done it, I would love to hear your impressions.
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