About To Become a First Time Type R Owner - Need Your Expertise - Some Important Questions

[TheCanadian]

CMBS hasn't given me any problems. Y'all sure you don't tailgate?

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[Slapshot]

Congratulations! Enjoy.
What I would tell myself a year ago that I now know...:
1. Turning radius is deceptively large. Go out further - especially on right turns unless there is no curb. Be careful or you will curb it cutting a corner. Doesn't seem to be an issue on lefts - I can cut them within inches and be fine.
2. Obviously this applies double on parking and backing out.
3. With a low front lip, and a long hood, pull in slowly to vertical spots, and allow a little extra. Genius here raced into a spot. Once.
4. The transmission is fine, but be extra deliberate about putting in the clutch all the way and avoid speed shifting. And it is no shame to use the rev match. Not set up ideally for heel and toe for most drivers. There's an Acuity kit for that.
5. Drive it immediately after you turn it on - it likes to warm up as it is moving, not sit there.
6. You probably know this, but trail braking is not the best approach. There are some good You Tube videos worth watching on specific technique for this setup. The Type R will reward skill and precision. It won't kill you if you screw up - but you will know when it is right.
You can - fairy easily - get the FK8 to rotate. In fact, you can over-rotate if you are not careful. You won't spin out, but you will lose all momentum. Best approach? Brake straight, then feet off everything, turn, and then smoothly feed in the gas. All that should take about 2-3 seconds. When it is right, it is magic- the car just shoots out of the turn. Brakes are strong enough to brake late, very late. Got to love it.
There is understeer in some situations, but not much. Rarely do I ever feel torque steer. Turn in is very quick. Steering feel? Excellent for drive by wire. 'Tight rack? Check.' (to quote Something About Mary)
7. Sport is the default mode, and it should be. I rarely use Comfort. Sport feels more controlled. R+ is fine on any smooth road, and my default if I want to corner dead flat. The weird thing about the Type R is that +R doesn't really beat you up much, and even in Comfort the car handles well. Sport is the best of both.
8. Tire pressure is super critical - as in check them every chance you get to have decent ride and handling. I run the OEM setup at 35 psi.
Also, a nail or screw will often quickly ruin a tire beyond repair - unless you catch it right away. I invested about $ 35 in a plug in electric air pump and keep it in the car. That and a hand tire gauge. But the air pump is easier to read, more accurate, and you can top off tires without searching for a gas station with an air hose. Plugs into the car, no need to plug it into the wall.
9. The traction control is best left on unless you are on an actual closed track. It does not kill the fun, but will save your ass when your otherwise grippy tires hit loose sand or gravel. Or you just get it really wrong. Hey, it happens to even the best drivers.
10. If you have an opportunity to buy a wheel or tire hazard warranty, don't pass it up.
11. Drive, enjoy, repeat as often as needed.

Thanks so much for all of the highly relevant and useful information. GREATLY appreciated!!!

 

[Slapshot]

Regarding wheels, even the best priced forged option (Titan 7) will set you back a piece. For a nice mid-ground option that is far closer in quality and weight to forged than they are to cast, check out the flow-formed wheels at Performance Aftermarket Wheels - Superspeed Wheels (super-speed.ca). They come in at just over $1400 for a set of four and you can get a set of 18 x 9.5 with the correct offset in numerous styles. I know several Type R owners with two sets, one for street tires (always 265/40 Pilot Sport 4S) and another for track day tires. They all seem quite pleased with them. I'm waiting on a set that size in Bronze right now.

Since the engine power is set in the ECU in the Type R, you get very little gain from bolt-ons without a tune. That said, if you are dead set on not violating your warranty, look into the piggy-back options. Some will say they do not work, but when I was stock, I got soundly beat by a friend who was also stock but with a piggy-back unit...I just don't know which one. (Note that I'm now FBO and tuned to 383WHP/394WTQ and have got my revenge!).

Good luck on your FK8 adventure!

Thanks so much for the wheel info. That's a very reasonable price, and they appear to be well made, solid wheels. It also helps to know they are working for others on the Type R.

 

[Slapshot]

Is there an established "break in" period for the Type R? I've read both that in the past ti was 600 miles, and also that in the newest years, no break in is necessary. Your expertise would be appreciated?

Granted, within hours of picking up my new Type R, I started getting increasingly sick, and ended up at the emergency room at 4am, and having an emergency appendectomy later in the day. I will not be driving much for a bit, sadly.

 

[StanMan]

Is there an established "break in" period for the Type R? I've read both that in the past ti was 600 miles, and also that in the newest years, no break in is necessary. Your expertise would be appreciated?

Granted, within hours of picking up my new Type R, I started getting increasingly sick, and ended up at the emergency room at 4am, and having an emergency appendectomy later in the day. I will not be driving much for a bit, sadly.

The manual states 600 mile break in.

 

[Slapshot]

Even in my very limited time in the car, I do know that I can't live with the bizarrely shaped tear drop shifter knob. Obviously there are alot of options out there. Anything you guys have found worked really well?

 

[MrTuckers]

Even in my very limited time in the car, I do know that I can't live with the bizarrely shaped tear drop shifter knob. Obviously there are alot of options out there. Anything you guys have found worked really well?

I like the shifter knob I bought from Raceseng. Really great quality and weight. Removal of OEM locking ring though was a PITA and I scratched it up using channelocks. I knew I wasn't going back to that frozen popsicle OEM knob so I didn't mind the slight damage. Look at my post regarding what route I took. Hope this helps.

 

[barbapapa]

I really like my 2019 knob, may want to look into that one

 

[Vtec_Nah]

I definitely second this, not a R owner but once I added a tune the first 1k miles of my Si the mod bug bit, never was bone stock up until I reverted back to sell it. Definitely nice to have a highly engineered vehicle in its purest form. Enjoy it while you can stock, then modify to your liking and driving needs.

 

[Slapshot]

I like the shifter knob I bought from Raceseng. Really great quality and weight. Removal of OEM locking ring though was a PITA and I scratched it up using channelocks. I knew I wasn't going back to that frozen popsicle OEM knob so I didn't mind the slight damage. Look at my post regarding what route I took. Hope this helps.

Is removal of the OEM locking ring necessary for all replacements knobs?

 

[MrTuckers]

Is removal of the OEM locking ring necessary for all replacements knobs?

Unfortunately it is. For some it was easy to slip downwards but for mine I had to muscle it off.

Had I known about this 90 degrees release it may have worked but at the time of my install I could not find this info. Try it and see. Maybe your results will be easier than mine. After 2 hours of muscling and sweating hands you maybe able to do it in less than a min. Good luck

 

[Champale]

Slapshot - look at Eric48's post here. I tried it and it is so easy to do. No tools, no scratching. I went with an EPCO knob (I am a musclecar guy at heart!).

2020 FK8 - How can I remove the shift boot ? | Page 2 | 2016+ Honda Civic Forum (10th Gen) - Type R Forum, Si Forum - CivicX.com

 

[Slapshot]

Slapshot - look at Eric48's post here. I tried it and it is so easy to do. No tools, no scratching. I went with an EPCO knob (I am a musclecar guy at heart!).

2020 FK8 - How can I remove the shift boot ? | Page 2 | 2016+ Honda Civic Forum (10th Gen) - Type R Forum, Si Forum - CivicX.com

Great. Thank you for the help with this!

 

[Jimmyjambo_fk8]

Hello. As of one day next week, I will pick up my new Type R. I've read all of the reviews since it first appeared. Since no dealer in my state will allow test drives, I haven't driven one, but I'm certainly not worried about being disappointed in its performance and handling. I have spent time siting in one, and the seat, and driving position can be adjusted to where it is perfect for me, so that's more than half the battle.

I have some questions, as a brand new owner that I hope you can help me with.

There seem to be a lot of concerns mentioned about the need to replace the existing intercooler with a better one. I wont be tracking it, but it will definitely experience a lot of spirited driving. Is this concern even important for a brand new car that wont be tracked?

I live in Michigan, and many roads here are in poor condition and filled with potholes and rough sections and more. I had not realized that these come standard with 20 inch wheels and very low profile tires. Neither of these is a good thing in Michigan. The last thing I want to do is spend a big chunk of money on tires and wheels after paying for the car next week. Are there any solid, but affordable alternatives for wheels (18 inch, ideally)?

Lastly, are there any meaningful performance options that will not cause issues with the warranty, in your experience? Not looking for a lot here, or anything crazy but would love to possibly bump the horsepower up to 335-350, and would prefer not to wait three years before doing so.

Thanks for any assistance with this. Your experience and knowledge are greatly appreciated.

Congrats on the car. I think you already know, the options & opinions are endless. I've had my car for just over two years. I've done PRL HVI, Hondata, Acuity Performance Shifter & Bushings. I also added Perrin 27mm spacers & Rally Armor for protection.

I highly recommend each of these mods, because they seem to be worth every penny. I think the DP and IC are very important to upgrade if you want to improve the power and response. I think doing the exhaust is a waste of money, considering it's just for sound.

As for your situation, is this a daily driver? If so, then consider the order in which you mod the car. I think doing 18" wheels isn't the best move, the car is steller on its OEM suspension. I think going with 19" is the proper way, to keep the car close to oem, while getting more meat on the tire. I've read a ton and spoke to plenty of people. JUST SAYIN!

The car in general is great. My best advice, get PPF on the front. Don't drive in & out of R mode frequently.....the tires won't last that way. Expect to get 12-15,000 miles on the OEM tires......I rotate mine every 3k, which has seemed to help.

If you have any other questions, hmu.

GOOD LUCK & CONGRATS!!

 

[fatherpain]

The Tommy Kaira Titan Bebe works great but is cost prohibitive. The non titanium Heavy Bebe is half the cost… but still abit on the pricier side.

That said there are tons of affordable aftermarket shift knobs that should be an improvement over OEM, if don’t like the new teardrop shape.

Even in my very limited time in the car, I do know that I can't live with the bizarrely shaped tear drop shifter knob. Obviously there are alot of options out there. Anything you guys have found worked really well?

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