370-400 WHP Mods needed?

AVR

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KOIVUN1

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Seems overkill to me lol, I have a sedan I wanna keep my backseats sounds like a nice car though!
thinking about it, rear seat and spare tire delete wont improve hp or torque in any means. it's just weight reduction to make the car overall perform faster. It doesn't do a thing to the engine though besides making it work less hard to do the same work, so technically the engine puts more power out if you go by power=force*distance/time, then with less weight the engine can do the same work in less time so therefore more power, but in reality shedding weight doesn't make your hp # increase
 

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4th gears are really weak in the Si. Why HPD has 4th gear set available at $550.
 

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How much would something like that cost to get installed? I had no idea they made those.
It all depends of your mechanic or a friend that is really good with cars and doesn't mind helping you. But normally they re-sleeve those engines to make the cylinder walls stronger, and you will be prepared for any possible upgrade. Who knows if you talk to them they might bore the cylinders (make them a little bigger in diameter) Allowing a bigger piston make it 1.6T. It is possible but I have not seeing it yet in this civics probably because they are still kind of new. If I would need a new motor I would have a machine shop bore the cylinders to fit a bigger piston.
 


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You can get built motors too, they already have forged rods, pistons, etc. they claim to be ready for 600 HP or more

https://www.twostepperformance.com/...ilt-l15b7-1-5l-civic-for-the-2016-honda-civic
I actually once considered this for my Si. And with all the costs added, I still would pay less than if I trade my Si for a R, and end up with probably more horsepower. (400whp+ vs 350 on my R right now) The Problem is the reliability and longevity. New clutch, motor, overhauled internal.... I would only to it if I have a backup car in case something goes wrong. People seem to forget this when they just post a random horsepower number, and it's their only car for commute.
 

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...what are the pros and cons of using titanium valve retainers over steel? What would be the HP number where replacing the springs and retainers would provide value? I am so so close to buying the twostep block. Still in planning phase now...
 
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SiR

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...what are the pros and cons of using titanium valve retainers over steel? What would be the HP number where replacing the springs and retainers would provide value? I am so so close to buying the twostep block. Still in planning phase now...
Please let us know how it turns out. Built engine is the part when I chickened out since it was my only ride in Covid. But i'm super curious about it and how much hp it can handle.
 

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...what are the pros and cons of using titanium valve retainers over steel? What would be the HP number where replacing the springs and retainers would provide value? I am so so close to buying the twostep block. Still in planning phase now...
[/QUOTE]
What I understand is titanium are a little lighter but steel are more durable.
 

dark_knight097

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...what are the pros and cons of using titanium valve retainers over steel? What would be the HP number where replacing the springs and retainers would provide value? I am so so close to buying the twostep block. Still in planning phase now...
Titanium springs are lighter than steel springs.
This is supposed to help the engine rev faster/have an easier time revving higher.

From what I researched, its debatable on wether people should run them on street builds.
Apparently titanium will wear faster and will need maintenance sooner. But some people say they run then on street and never have issues with high mileage.

Steel is heavier but generally will not wear as fast as titanium springs.

As for what HP, its not really HP/torque dependent but more so what revs your engine will be seeing. Titanium springs aren't neccessary* at the 7-7.2k range. Its honestly personal preference for which one you go with unless you plan on doing some serious work to the head to rev out to 8k+
 


dark_knight097

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Please let us know how it turns out. Built engine is the part when I chickened out since it was my only ride in Covid. But i'm super curious about it and how much hp it can handle.
kshawn has been running TSP's built block. I'm sure he can provide some good feedback for those curious about it.
 

AVR

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Titanium springs are lighter than steel springs.
This is supposed to help the engine rev faster/have an easier time revving higher.

From what I researched, its debatable on wether people should run them on street builds.
Apparently titanium will wear faster and will need maintenance sooner. But some people say they run then on street and never have issues with high mileage.

Steel is heavier but generally will not wear as fast as titanium springs.

As for what HP, its not really HP/torque dependent but more so what revs your engine will be seeing. Titanium springs aren't neccessary* at the 7-7.2k range. Its honestly personal preference for which one you go with unless you plan on doing some serious work to the head to rev out to 8k+
Could you reach them by only removing the engine cover, or do you have to remove the cams?
 

dark_knight097

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Could you reach them by only removing the engine cover, or do you have to remove the cams?
For a simple adjustment just the cover. But if you want to change the valve springs out you'll need to remove the cams
 

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I actually once considered this for my Si. And with all the costs added, I still would pay less than if I trade my Si for a R, and end up with probably more horsepower. (400whp+ vs 350 on my R right now) The Problem is the reliability and longevity. New clutch, motor, overhauled internal.... I would only to it if I have a backup car in case something goes wrong. People seem to forget this when they just post a random horsepower number, and it's their only car for commute.
what Would make a built motor unreliable? Logic tells me if I were to replace parts with better and stronger parts it would be even more reliable than if I were to not build my motor?..... I’m building my motor in 2 weeks in preparation for FBO and W1 , Im hoping that by doing this I could have a car that i dont have to worry about blowing up on me
 

SiR

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what Would make a built motor unreliable? Logic tells me if I were to replace parts with better and stronger parts it would be even more reliable than if I were to not build my motor?..... I’m building my motor in 2 weeks in preparation for FBO and W1 , Im hoping that by doing this I could have a car that i dont have to worry about blowing up on me
Don't get me wrong, I would love to have a built motor in my Si or R with stronger blocks. I was at the edge of ordering a built motor myself. I followed this Si build from this youtuber, I think it's PhongVLG. He knew exactly what he was doing with all the parts, and he eventually went for a built engine. Then one day I saw he posted a video that his car just all of a sudden went into limp mode with engine light on, and he couldn't figure out what happened. I loved his build, and he had close to 360whp i think, not even 400 yet, and those kind of stuff happen

I'm not trying to scare anyone. I told myself, if this is my only ride, I would be worried all the time that something like this happen. The youtubers do it as part of their lives, I don't. If you know what you are doing, and you have a spare car, by all means do it. As another car guy, i do wish anyone does it gets a nice build he loves. For my work and schedule, i just can't take the risk right now.
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