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20K Miles on factory struts after Prokit and Spoon springs. Worn struts?

02SilverSiHB

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I wish I had made a vid, but I was too tired after uninstalling my spoon springs...so I have a question

If you press down on a strut (the fronts) it should come back up immediately right...not slowly like a snail?

Both sides on the front were like that. I had probably run 18k miles with the prokit and 3k miles with the spoon springs. To be clear...I just went back to factory springs this past weekend.

I didn't see any oil anywhere to make me think it had blown...but I could have sworn struts like that should come right back up when you push down on them.

IMO, the prokits felt really harsh around this area where I live, Spoon was more comfortable. Both have about the same spring rate, but Spoon was designed slightly different



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boosted180sx

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Not necessarily. They aren't suppose to rebound immediately like a spring does.

Most of the time, the rod wouldn't come back up at all if it is blown and have little to no resistance when pushing down on the rod.
 
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02SilverSiHB

02SilverSiHB

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Not necessarily. They aren't suppose to rebound immediately like a spring does.

Most of the time, the rod wouldn't come back up at all if it is blown and have little to no resistance when pushing down on the rod.
okay, awesome, I was a little worried, lol. Good to hear
 

Type-JZ

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you did lose an inch or so of travel and stiffer, so it would be quicker vs stock. Best is to ride in someone's lowered car to compare. Blown shocks have oil leak(which you said you did not find) or when you press on your car, it would float or like it was riding on springs only. But sometimes w/ stiffer suspension, might be hard to tell. If your handling and ride didn't noticeably suffer, then i say you're fine.
 
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02SilverSiHB

02SilverSiHB

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you did lose an inch or so of travel and stiffer, so it would be quicker vs stock. Best is to ride in someone's lowered car to compare. Blown shocks have oil leak(which you said you did not find) or when you press on your car, it would float or like it was riding on springs only. But sometimes w/ stiffer suspension, might be hard to tell. If your handling and ride didn't noticeably suffer, then i say you're fine.
Nah sounds like every thing is okay with what was mention by the others above.

Not sure why I'd ride another person's lowered car lol...I'm on stock suspension
 

idragmazda

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Nah sounds like every thing is okay with what was mention by the others above.

Not sure why I'd ride another person's lowered car lol...I'm on stock suspension
Are you reverting back to stock springs? My wheels finally arrived after a 6 mo wait and now I’m trying to decide whether to

(1) Lower with sport line and go 265/35/18
Or
(2) stock springs with 265/40/18 or 270/40/18

Any thoughts on long term use of lowering springs?
 

jasonjm

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Stock is best unless you pay up for quality coil overs. Everything in between is more for looks than performance, as you want some adjustability (coilovers and settings). Stock is pretty low (comparatively), and has adjustments and that can get you far depending on the track.

My only gripe is not being able to use comfort mode suspension but r mode everything else for a bumpy track or back road.
 

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Nah sounds like every thing is okay with what was mention by the others above.

Not sure why I'd ride another person's lowered car lol...I'm on stock suspension
O, from the title it sounded like your lowered so I said to compare in someone’s lowered car.
 

RacingManiac

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It also highly depends on how much gas charge there is in the shock to start and what kind of tuning the shock has. The factory adaptive shocks are designed to fail somewhere in the middle of the damping range and for a performance car that is usually pretty stiff. Failsafe meaning there is a mechanical(controlled) valve in the system that is designed to be the main source of damping where there is no current supplied to the shock(which for a removed strut that is the state it will be in). Also for these tri-tubes(yes that is a thing) they don't need a lot of gas charge.
 
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02SilverSiHB

02SilverSiHB

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Are you reverting back to stock springs? My wheels finally arrived after a 6 mo wait and now I’m trying to decide whether to

(1) Lower with sport line and go 265/35/18
Or
(2) stock springs with 265/40/18 or 270/40/18

Any thoughts on long term use of lowering springs?
maybe go with 255/40 and stay on factory springs...that should fill in the gap a tad and look fine

O, from the title it sounded like your lowered so I said to compare in someone’s lowered car.
Oh, lol, I see
Stock is best unless you pay up for quality coil overs. Everything in between is more for looks than performance, as you want some adjustability (coilovers and settings). Stock is pretty low (comparatively), and has adjustments and that can get you far depending on the track.

My only gripe is not being able to use comfort mode suspension but r mode everything else for a bumpy track or back road.
yeah, I feel the same. I don't want to lose the choice between modes by going with coilovers...guess I'll be on factory springs from now on
 

RacingManiac

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Also FWIW blown shocks don't always leak, if you have a disc cracked or something it would be fine outside but makes no damping force, if its actually slow in extending it actually probably is making damping force unless you actually lost gas pressure. Which actually would have a leak.

Adaptive shocks like these actually won't be as bad for lowering because its probably compensating for the lowered ride height actively, the normal cars lowered on conventional shocks will likely run into issue of either under damped so it rides poorly or bottoming/ topping and that might mechanically accelerate wear. Adaptive shocks will see the car being closer to end stop and increase damping to try to stop the movement. The failure mode would be more likely seal related as the shock might be running more pressure than what normally would have vs the standard duty cycle.
 

SHIFTT_IX_MR

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Stock is best unless you pay up for quality coil overs. Everything in between is more for looks than performance, as you want some adjustability (coilovers and settings). Stock is pretty low (comparatively), and has adjustments and that can get you far depending on the track.

My only gripe is not being able to use comfort mode suspension but r mode everything else for a bumpy track or back road.

AGREED. The stock is very good, but if you want it lower, I wouldn't run anything less than a good quality coilover setup like Zeal, Forture, etc. NO TEIN! Steel + plus welds = crap. Sorry Tein.


D2's are actually very good for their price. CNC all aluminum, no welds, at least that's how they were on my 350Z at that time.
 

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