2021 CTR 1K miles impressions & questions

daversmth

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2021 CTR here.
Car bought with 550 miles on and I have only added another 150 to it.
I'm really a biker (hond fireblade) but loving the way the CTR drives.
Also like the real difference between R and comfort mode, dpending whether you want to drive agressive or relaxed.
Had no issues with 2nd gear crunch but have not changed up to 2nd at high revs yet, and will avoid doing so knowing there may be a problem. Its great to have this forum to know about such stuff.
I have, however, accidently downshifted too far into a lower gear than intended on several occasions. Any tips how to avoid that?
I dont like the infotainment system at all. I find it so difficult to use ,even for basic phone or audio for example, even though I'm a tech nerd. Not yet figured out how to get the LogR app to record a data log either. I am ignoring all that for now and just enjoying the driving experience.
Had the dreaded low tyre pressure warning come up, but only once so far.
Overall mega happy with the car though as a driving experience.
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SiR

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As I was reading this post I was wondering when you were gonna realize we are on the same page.

They built this car with the knowledge that the car was going to be tracked by consumers. Modified, pushed to its limits. And yet they still sold us a car with a CDV valve, a slow CMC, and other useless "driver assists" as if the demographic that was purchasing this car needed "smoother clutch engagement". FOH Honda.

I've noticed this air of superiority around this topic. Lots of owners who claim they are better drivers cause they never have a grind. I've been driving manuals exclusively for nearly 25 years. 30+ cars and HUNDREDS of thousands of miles. I've never had a grind that wasn't self inflicted. It happens. Of the millions of shifts, probably a couple hundred grinds.

Let me compare the Type R to another car in its segment. My gf owns a 2017 Golf R, heavily modded. 6 spd manual. I drive it often, we switch cars at AX events, the dragstrip, "snow days here in WI" etc. While the VW trans is nowhere near as crisp or engaging, I've never had that car grind on me. Not once. The Type R is different. It will consistently happen on the 1-2 above 6k rpm.
I might responded a little harsh, because the "just don't drive hard", "fixed for ya", certainly sounded very sarcastic and fanboy ish. But it's no longer important, I did my research, and found a youtuber confirmed my suspicion on the issue.

Here's the link, and I'm really considering it since I want to drive the car as intended without damaging the transmission in long run,

 

SiR

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So, I have heard about the extra damper Honda added to the FK8 before the link, but couldn't confirm its effect on the gear change. Now, I know, I feel Honda did such a stupid thing to the R.
They advertised it as helping to preserve the clutch because they knew people would do launch and clutch dump. In reality, I think Honda now is just disconnected from the Type R fan base, and just want to spend less on warranty. However, the end result kind of backfired - R is the only new manual car that you get gear grinds. Honda! most R buyers want to drive properly by having the clutch disengage right away, not lagging behind... Seriously, how much is a transmission, and how much is just a clutch pad.... no brainer. Not gona mention all the missing handbrake stuffs.... As good as the R is, Honda corporate is slowly forgetting what manual people want.

enough rant. I have adjusted my CMC by eliminate all it's free play, and it does help quite a bit, for those looking for quick fix. But what he did there is the one, i think, would eliminate the issue completely, and how the R should have came out from factory.
 

Lust

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So, I have heard about the extra damper Honda added to the FK8 before the link, but couldn't confirm its effect on the gear change. Now, I know, I feel Honda did such a stupid thing to the R.
They advertised it as helping to preserve the clutch because they knew people would do launch and clutch dump. In reality, I think Honda now is just disconnected from the Type R fan base, and just want to spend less on warranty. However, the end result kind of backfired - R is the only new manual car that you get gear grinds. Honda! most R buyers want to drive properly by having the clutch disengage right away, not lagging behind... Seriously, how much is a transmission, and how much is just a clutch pad.... no brainer. Not gona mention all the missing handbrake stuffs.... As good as the R is, Honda corporate is slowly forgetting what manual people want.

enough rant. I have adjusted my CMC by eliminate all it's free play, and it does help quite a bit, for those looking for quick fix. But what he did there is the one, i think, would eliminate the issue completely, and how the R should have came out from factory.
I’ve said it on so many posts now that I’ve lost count. Almost as if people don’t bother reading my entire post or the post in general.

Yes if the clutch adjustment doesn’t fully solve your issue, a modified CMC will definitely help even more. I explain why on previous post.

There’s two dampers and we need to be specific on which one we want to remove. The one in the clutch master will slow the clutch release and the one in the slave will slow clutch engagement. When getting the modified CMC, the damper will be deleted and the feed hole bore will be increased.

People have removed the CDV in the slave itself but this doesn’t solve the problem for the 1-2 gear crunch. I’d say it’s unnecessary.

Essentially what we’re doing is optimizing the clutch hydraulics to disengage the clutch fully and as quickly as possible to give the synchros more time to work. Gear oil can have an effect too and I’d recommend experimenting with different ones.
 

SiR

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I’ve said it on so many posts now that I’ve lost count. Almost as if people don’t bother reading my entire post or the post in general.

Yes if the clutch adjustment doesn’t fully solve your issue, a modified CMC will definitely help even more. I explain why on previous post.

There’s two dampers and we need to be specific on which one we want to remove. The one in the clutch master will slow the clutch release and the one in the slave will slow clutch engagement. When getting the modified CMC, the damper will be deleted and the feed hole bore will be increased.

People have removed the CDV in the slave itself but this doesn’t solve the problem for the 1-2 gear crunch. I’d say it’s unnecessary.

Essentially what we’re doing is optimizing the clutch hydraulics to disengage the clutch fully and as quickly as possible to give the synchros more time to work. Gear oil can have an effect too and I’d recommend experimenting with different ones.
I have read quite some of your posts, but the thing is, I believe most of us aren't that technically knowledgeable about the new honda clutch system. So, when I, for one, saw people arguing with your theory, there was no way to tell who to believe, and risk a wrong fix, Until that I have done my own homework.

Anyways, I appreciate any positive inputs from people, and at this point I have done both oil change and clutch adjustments, twice - longer CMC travel with higher clutch position. I have to say, it's paying off. I have done some purposeful 1st gear higher rev fast shifts, and so far it's working much better. It's like Honda left the R this way for people to DIY with it themselves.
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