2020 Type R 2k miles Rotors are scored up on all 4 wheels

Lust

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Wow the OP truly doesnā€™t know jack about these cars.

I am thrice now telling you itā€™s a rock between your dust shield and rotor. If your pads were constantly dragging you would see more pad material on the rotor and it would turn blue. The brakes grabbing on the incline is the hill assist function. Your ā€œloss in powerā€ is more than likely a bit of placebo / paranoia along with warmer temps.

Stop being lazy and do an inspection on your vehicle. Scan for DTC error codes. The electronics on this car are pretty sophisticated
 

kefi

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Wow the OP truly doesnā€™t know jack about these cars.

I am thrice now telling you itā€™s a rock between your dust shield and rotor. If your pads were constantly dragging you would see more pad material on the rotor and it would turn blue. The brakes grabbing on the incline is the hill assist function. Your ā€œloss in powerā€ is more than likely a bit of placebo / paranoia along with warmer temps.

Stop being lazy and do an inspection on your vehicle. Scan for DTC error codes. The electronics on this car are pretty sophisticated
I'm gonna be the devil's advocate here and say he knows what hill assist is and there's something else going on at this point. If he was already moving, even the sliiiightest bit, hill assist wouldn't have activated. It only activates once you have depressed the brake pedal for over 1 second at a complete stop while on an incline. It's kinda fun to play around with and see how it behaves if you can find an empty hill.
 

mocaSi

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As far as Duval Honda and any other "Duval Dealers" Duval Ford, Duval Mazda, do not ever take a vehicle there or buy from them. My wife used to work there and the owner is a corrupt drug running pimp. He is the biggest piece of shit and treats the employees like trash. The dealerships themselves are a by product of there owner and the management he hires in. All they'll do is try to pull a quick one on anyone that they can and rip you off. The owner has been known to go to the vault/safe during the day and pull out stacks to wave around and the hot chick employees offering some chedder for pleasuring him. I know this sounds like a joke but it's all the truth. I lived in Jacksonville for 27 years (born and raised). I hope you pursue them if they really screwed you over. As far as your rotors they look normal to me but I'm not there to see how the car is driving and reacting. Hope you get it all worked out.
 


kefi

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As far as Duval Honda and any other "Duval Dealers" Duval Ford, Duval Mazda, do not ever take a vehicle there or buy from them. My wife used to work there and the owner is a corrupt drug running pimp. He is the biggest piece of shit and treats the employees like trash. The dealerships themselves are a by product of there owner and the management he hires in. All they'll do is try to pull a quick one on anyone that they can and rip you off. The owner has been known to go to the vault/safe during the day and pull out stacks to wave around and the hot chick employees offering some chedder for pleasuring him. I know this sounds like a joke but it's all the truth. I lived in Jacksonville for 27 years (born and raised). I hope you pursue them if they really screwed you over. As far as your rotors they look normal to me but I'm not there to see how the car is driving and reacting. Hope you get it all worked out.
I'd believe it. I work in the software side of this industry and see scummy things every single day because I have full, unfiltered access to every bit of data the GMs like hiding. Would you believe me if I told you one of our largest dealership groups' GMs is now having us search for and purge any customer notes that contain anything racist? Fuckers knew they were being so racist in the notes for years that they had to go and have us get rid of the evidence after all this BLM shit started. Of course they're in Texas, too.

Pretty much every single Honda dealership we have in Florida is scummy as fuck and has no idea what they're doing with these cars and will try to oversell you. Other than South Florida, the R is not a popular vehicle in Florida. I've only seen a handful in three years and meets usually consist of 10-30 people from all over the state.

The best thing you can do as a Floridian with a Type R is have a Honda tech friend who will work on your car himself in the shop and tell his advisors to fuck off.
 

Teach-R

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Forgot the 2020ā€™s have the Honda Sensing. Would be interesting if something is screwing up the radar for it. I know on my Golf R I had an issue where something was triggering the rear cross alert system and sometimes when I was backing up the car would slam on the brakes without warning. And the front collision warning will randomly pop up too.
 

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Run to another dealer and call corporate if you are seeing these issues from that dealer as well so they can know and have paperwork in case you have more issues. If you haven't done that already.
 

the8rotor

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Are your wheels scorching hot after a short drive with blue tinted rotors? That would tell you if you have any calipers/pads dragging as well as wheel bearing issues.
 

kefi

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Are your wheels scorching hot after a short drive with blue tinted rotors? That would tell you if you have any calipers/pads dragging as well as wheel bearing issues.
Shit, I didn't know that. Makes sense though. The more you know :)
 


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Yeah... the lack of retainer springs can prevent the pad from coming off the rotor when you disengage the brakes... though the pad wonā€™t be under any pressure anymore. It might add a smidge of drag... and if 1 of 2 of the spring are missing per pad, I guess it might bite on a side of the pad before the other. I wouldnā€™t think itā€™d add much drag... but it can let the old lay lightly against the rotor to make extra noise and add a little bit of wear... or be a source of a clunk and the pad might clunk around in the assembly itself... bouncing between the piston and the rotor. Itā€™s a snug fit so there shouldnā€™t be much movement. Iā€™ve heard of some people not including them at all when they replace pads... but they do serve a purpose.

As to the rotors... eh... a little threading is pretty normal even early on. The abrasive... ā€œconstituentā€ of the pad is going to bite into the rotor... but Iā€™ll trust you if you think itā€™s excessive.

As to the car braking oddly, Iā€™d through the retainer springs theory out, TBD. The lack of a spring shouldnā€™t allow any substantial braking force... itā€™s mostly to just not let a pad rub lightly against a rotor to cause extra noise and wear. Iā€™d concur that if your brakes seem to be doing things on their own, Iā€™d stop driving the car. Iā€™ve never experienced anything like that and having the brakes not work when you need them or engage and negate your ability to accelerate (brakes should both be able to overcome engine power at least before the fluid overheats and in modern cars, would close the throttle when engaged. If some drive-by-wire thing thinks youā€™re engaging the brakes while youā€™re trying to accelerate to merge in traffic... it may shut the throttle on you). All a bunch of maybe-BS... but Iā€™d not take the chance personally. Something should be done. Iā€™ve had meh dealings down at Coggin so Iā€™m not much of a fan. At least so far as sales/service is concerned at the Avenues... theyā€™ve done ok by me. I couldnā€™t get Coggin to honor warranty work based on TSBs and have wasted my time doing a 1.5 hour round trip to take my Odyssey there and also pissed me off on a few fronts on their sales side. Iā€™ve been in the garage with the tech to go over stuff at The Avenues and my discussions with at least one tech have been fine. I havenā€™t interacted with the folks at Duval other than haggling prices over the internet.

Good luck!
 

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Here's a video for all you non believers. Watch this video. I told you I was delusional or crazy. This isn't normal you can CLEARLY hear it.

Anybody got some ideas so I can tell Honda how to fix it....

Man I'm pissed. This is a safety issue no doubt.

Click tbe you tube link to access the video

It sounds like it happens only when you slow down to a certain slow speed. That would point to something that is resonating.
Just blew through the thread and have seen a lot of stuff talked about. As to the indications of the pads not clearing the rotors when the brakes are not engaged and adding drag... and I didnā€™t see it asked: are retainer springs installed? If they arenā€™t but the little hole to set them in the pads are there, adding them should ensure the pads move off the rotor by spring pressure once your off the brake and the caliper is no longer applying pressure to the pad.

if youā€™re not familiar with them... theyā€™re generally a W shaped spring that is attached to the inner and outer pad and are always applying force to push the pad away from the rotor. Might be a little hard to see with the wheels on.
Can you point to an illustration or diagram where the spring pulls the pads away from the disc? My impression has always been that the spring presses radially inward toward the hub, in order to keep the pads securely seated in the caliper. It does prevent rattles and noise, which could explain the symptoms OP was having. I have never seen a brake caliper that pulls pads away from the disc because that would just introduce insane slack into the braking system.
 

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It sounds like it happens only when you slow down to a certain slow speed. That would point to something that is resonating.

Can you point to an illustration or diagram where the spring pulls the pads away from the disc? My impression has always been that the spring presses radially inward toward the hub, in order to keep the pads securely seated in the caliper. It does prevent rattles and noise, which could explain the symptoms OP was having. I have never seen a brake caliper that pulls pads away from the disc because that would just introduce insane slack into the braking system.
Donā€™t have a CTR and havenā€™t done pads on this Si yet so Iā€™m not sure of the design. Thereā€™s a few different variants and they can look a little different. I did the Odysseyā€™s brakes most recently and I recall that being a W or U shaped spring to spread. Thereā€™s also little retainer pieces that fit into the caliper assembly the let it slide on that, if missing, can make some slop.

If you skip this video to around the 7 minute mark... youā€™ll see the reinstall and how the retainer spring gets squeezed and goes in little holes on the outside of the pad and that spring tension from the U trying to open helps move the pad from the rotor. Making sure everything is nice and greased up... thereā€™s little stainless clip-in channels the pad slides in and the slide pins of course make it all move smooth.

For their small size... they do put a decent amount of tension. Iā€™ve had them shoot across the garage before when I had them slip trying to hook into the second padā€™s hole. Entertaining.

 

Gansan

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Donā€™t have a CTR and havenā€™t done pads on this Si yet so Iā€™m not sure of the design. Thereā€™s a few different variants and they can look a little different. I did the Odysseyā€™s brakes most recently and I recall that being a W or U shaped spring to spread. Thereā€™s also little retainer pieces that fit into the caliper assembly the let it slide on that, if missing, can make some slop.

If you skip this video to around the 7 minute mark... youā€™ll see the reinstall and how the retainer spring gets squeezed and goes in little holes on the outside of the pad and that spring tension from the U trying to open helps move the pad from the rotor. Making sure everything is nice and greased up... thereā€™s little stainless clip-in channels the pad slides in and the slide pins of course make it all move smooth.

For their small size... they do put a decent amount of tension. Iā€™ve had them shoot across the garage before when I had them slip trying to hook into the second padā€™s hole. Entertaining.
Ah, thatā€™s very interesting. I havenā€™t seen those type of springs before. Iā€™m also amazed the Odyssey has 2 piston calipers. Having looked at the service manual, Iā€˜m pretty sure the brembos donā€™t have those and instead have some sheet metal retaining springs that just hold the pads in.
 

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Ah, thatā€™s very interesting. I havenā€™t seen those type of springs before. Iā€™m also amazed the Odyssey has 2 piston calipers. Having looked at the service manual, Iā€˜m pretty sure the brembos donā€™t have those and instead have some sheet metal retaining springs that just hold the pads in.
At about 5000 lbs with a family of 5 in it... it needs all the help it can get. Iā€™m running some Akebonos in it that do a decent job and the old J35 works to move it along but it always feels as heavy as it is to me.

Yeah... I wasnā€™t sure that the CTR had any. Iā€™ve done maybe 3 or 4 cars brakes before and theyā€™ve all had some variant but none of them were the same. I swear one of them was W shaped but looking back at the video is was U. Probably a Z or the mother-in-lawā€™s Galant or something else. I just was throwing it out there as I didnā€™t see it come up and itā€™s a simple thing to check. I think someone mentioned Hawks pads donā€™t have springs or the holes to place springs in... and theyā€™re a common aftermarket option for the Si folks... so it doesnā€™t sound like theyā€™re absolutely necessary. I havenā€™t run across any that didnā€™t have any yet though in my experience.
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