Si 2020 Si 0 miles block build thread

mrburgerUS

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Hello All,

I definitely can’t leave well enough alone on my FK7! I purchased a full short block L15B7 with 0 miles from College Hills Honda yesterday and picked it up. Now comes the build portion. I’d like to get some healthy HP/TQ figures, and keep reliability up at the same time. Right now:
  1. Rods
  2. Pistons
  3. CRV Head
  4. Valve Springs
  5. Lightweight crank Pulley
  6. PRL GTX2860 Gen2 Turbo Kit
are all on my list of potential upgrades to get there. I will post pictures of the block below!
078ECB27-0097-45AC-B400-5361C7AB2EA4.jpeg


7C04F888-3DA3-4367-A839-9BD0039A33BD.jpeg


2F71ED2D-0786-41A6-994F-3AD429D1906E.jpeg





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zspeed

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Good luck with your project! I am excited to see the final result.
 

Benster

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Don't worry about a lightweight crank pulley, it gives negligible HP while introducing harmonics to the engine. It's worth it on an engine that is not popular and doesn't make a lot of hp from factory, like my Suzuki SX4 did, not in this one. You're looking at around 3-5hp in first and second gear and less than 1 hp in overdrive gears. You're already going for over 300whp, don't introduce another reason for the engine to fail.

Build recommendation from me:
get the rods, pistons aren't needed IF you get it tuned professionally. Pistons will usually only break if you are pushing super hard or introduce detonation. With your 2860 turbo you won't come anywhere near the limits of the stock SI pistons. Valve springs may be a good idea if you want to rev past 7000 rpm or push over 30 psi of boost but until we get aftermarket cams, if staying at stock rev limit I don't see the reason for it. There are guys here pushing 28-29 psi and not having spring issues that I'm aware of.

Another reason for not going with forged pistons if you don't need them is you WILL have to let the engine fully warm up before you go hard on it as a forged piston expands at a different rate than a stock one. Had that issue in my atv and you could hear it when cold. It's the same as letting you oil temps be up before getting on it but you have to be extra careful with pistons as they will have a tendency to slap around a bit when cold.
 

kshawn

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I recommend the gtx2867R. Pairs great with a built engine. If you intend to push hard in the future, port the cylinder head now. Sleeves are also a good addition. Make sure to pick up a upgraded oil pump while your at it, prl sells one.

Running a twostepperformance built block with 0 regrets.
 
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mrburgerUS

mrburgerUS

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I recommend the gtx2867R. Pairs great with a built engine. If you intend to push hard in the future, port the cylinder head now. Sleeves are also a good addition. Make sure to pick up a upgraded oil pump while your at it, prl sells one.

Running a twostepperformance built block with 0 regrets.
Upgraded Oil Pump? I don’t see it on the PRL website. I Know MAPerformance sells upgraded oil gears, but I don’t see a whole pump upgrade.
 

kshawn

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Upgraded Oil Pump? I don’t see it on the PRL website. I Know MAPerformance sells upgraded oil gears, but I don’t see a whole pump upgrade.
I'm probably thinking of the MAPERFOMACE one
 

360glitch

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What kind of deal did you get on the short block from College Hills?

Along with upgrading the rods and pistons, I would recommend a cylinder support system while you have it apart.
 
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mrburgerUS

mrburgerUS

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What kind of deal did you get on the short block from College Hills?

Along with upgrading the rods and pistons, I would recommend a cylinder support system while you have it apart.
$1150 or so with tax on local pickup. Do you know of any cylinder support systems?
 

hobby-man

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What are your ultimate power goals here? This looks like a ridiculously fun project but probably something I'd never do as 300whp would be my upper limits
 

Two Step Performance

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Do you know of any cylinder support systems?
We include a cylinder support system with all of our L15B7 builds. The work is done by the one and only Cylinder Support Systems in NH. A CSS is a better alternative to sleeves, which sometime sink, leak, and/or shift. We are an authorized CSS reseller, but if you'd like to learn more about them and the process you can find their website here:

https://www.cylindersupportsystem.com/
 

bcrichster

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What kind of deal did you get on the short block from College Hills?

Along with upgrading the rods and pistons, I would recommend a cylinder support system while you have it apart.
Sleeves or block guard..
 

airickmatthews

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Oh man. Deffinately a thread I want to keep following. I been debating grabbing two steps built block. What you plan on doing for fuel?
 
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mrburgerUS

mrburgerUS

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Oh man. Deffinately a thread I want to keep following. I been debating grabbing two steps built block. What you plan on doing for fuel?
Most likely doing an Si head for the taller fuel pump cam. If I need to, i have a friend that machines high pressure fuel pumps to overdrive them. Hopefully I don’t need this service, but we’ll see. My tentative goal is about 320-330 WHP, so a built block will keep reliability up.
 

Hondanickx

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I would get the head ported for sure .
For me the best Guy to do this is still Larry from Endyn in Forth worth TX.
He could also port the oil pump and give great advise on the engine build.
Great old wise Guy!
 
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mrburgerUS

mrburgerUS

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Disassembling the short block slowly, and attempting to take photos along the way. This thing is TINY compared to a K24, I was dumbfounded when I found out one man (with gloves) can lift the whole short block. Purchased Saenz S-series H Beam connecting rods, which are currently 3 weeks from shipping. Notable things I’ve not seen mentioned about the L15B7 (or at least the A04 2020 revision) are:

Baffled Oil Pan
Oil Jets for the pistons, which are close to the cylinder wall enough that i will not be DIY block notching
a Direct-drive Oil Pump (fewer chains!)
no girdles. This is good and bad for power.

All in all this is my first complete tear down of an engine so I’m very carefully disassembling it. Armed with JIS hex bits, a Felo T handle bit holder, and a calibrated 5-75ft-lb CDI Torque wrench, plus the service manual, I feel confident I can do it!

The only tool I needed to buy was an 8mm 12-point socket. the Connecting rod bolts use this size, and I’d like to avoid damage to the crankshaft bearing surfaces.
Bottom End
 

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