2020 Civic Si purchase during Pandemic?

[amirza786]

Yea I think the issue now is because trucks are being stopped and production is halting they see these cars as “super desirable” right now. I’ve noticed even TrueCar prices have gone up hundreds of dollars over the past week. It’s weird. I’m not against in person stuff, I used to sell cars back before I joined the military, BMW’s and MINI’s. I understand the “tricks” but I also understand their side. As long as we both feel that we win I’m happy about it. I just have a price I don’t want to go over, and seeing how others have gotten it I know it’s attainable, especially since I’m not in a super expensive area or high tax area. I was just hoping they would be more receptive during an economic slow down but we shall see in a month or two maybe. Like I said I was planning on waiting until 2021 dropped in the fall to see if anything changes (I know probably nothing) and snag a late ‘20 At an ok deal. Again I’m not looking to break a dealers balls. But when I go through USAA car buying and you quote me an offer don’t lie to me. Irritates the crap out of me. Plus this dealer adds a “value package” to every car on the lot. Pinstriping- 99 bucks some windshield coating protectant, 299. Nitrogen tires fill , 99 bucks. And some interior spray, 159. Plus stuff like wheel locks and mud flaps (those I don’t care about). Plus on most a 2000 dollar “market adjustments I was blown away. I wonder how many people they get to pay 29,033 as the new MSRP. outrageous. They even tried to add all that stuff on the car I was getting that wasn’t even there on the lot yet. I was like wtf. Since the car isn’t here you aren’t even attempting to put that stuff on their let alone charge me for it.

Yeah I get you, it's not the sales guys fault, they are just trying to make a living and it's the dealership adding all the "value packages", which is just a BS way to get more money out of you. But I'm looking out for my pocketbook when buying, and I know the dealership is not going to sell a car at a loss or breakeven, so if they've accepted my offer that means they are still making money

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[bikejog]

I've rarely ever negotiated with a dealer in person. I will go thru a program like Costco auto and come in only to test drive and negotiate pricing thru email. One of the reasons I like the Costco auto program is that dealers who are part of this program are not allowed to pressure you. They will get a quote that is usually negotiated based on invoice pricing (or at least close to actual invoice) and hand it to you. When I was shopping around and decided on a 2018 Si, the dealer asking price was around $24,900, the Costco negotiated price was $22,800 (not including tax, title and license). I told the salesman thank you, I would think about it and would only communicate only thru email. This was May, in June he contacted me telling me by email telling me that there was only 1 car left in the color I wanted (Black) and that once this one was gone there would not be any others until the 2019's come out. I emailed him back that if he gives it to me for $22K even (not including tax and license) I would be there in an hour to pick it up, and he emailed me 10 minutes later that we had a deal. I did all the financing online through the dealers website, and all I had to do was come in and sign all the paperwork and pick up the car. The whole process took only an hour

Every time I try Costco, they always hook me up with a dealer that's either too far away, doesn't have the color/config I want, or have too many miles on the clock. And their dealer list keeps rotating like you get this dealer today but gone in a few weeks or months. So I was wondering if dealers go to Costco only to get rid of unwanted inventories. How many miles on the clock was your Si?

I've gotten low $22K offers on 2018 blue Si coupes just by negotiating via email. But now the MSRP went up by $1K so I don't know if you can still get that on '20. I did got a not too far offer for a 2020 blue coupe in the low $23K from a local dealer on a car that's "In Transit" but they told me the car wasn't in yet even thought Honda's website says it is. And when I email the manager she told me the reason for the delay was because that car was an Auto Show car and had interior damages. That was back in early to mid Feb. I'm thinking they probably gave me the run around and was trying to get more for the car from other people or something.

 

[amirza786]

Every time I try Costco, they always hook me up with a dealer that's either too far away, doesn't have the color/config I want, or have too many miles on the clock. And their dealer list keeps rotating like you get this dealer today but gone in a few weeks or months. So I was wondering if dealers go to Costco only to get rid of unwanted inventories. How many miles on the clock was your Si?

I've gotten low $22K offers on 2018 blue Si coupes just by negotiating via email. But now the MSRP went up by $1K so I don't know if you can still get that on '20. I did got a not too far offer for a 2020 blue coupe in the low $23K from a local dealer on a car that's "In Transit" but they told me the car wasn't in yet even thought Honda's website says it is. And when I email the manager she told me the reason for the delay was because that car was an Auto Show car and had interior damages. That was back in early to mid Feb. I'm thinking they probably gave me the run around and was trying to get more for the car from other people or something.

I unfortunately don't have the original paperwork (it was in the glovebox and I sold the car in September), but I believe it had about 6 miles on the odometer. Yes, Costco is definitely not the only way to go, whatever route one goes, first research the invoice. My brother in law has a Consumer Reports subscription that shows you the invoice, and even if it's not completely 100 percent accurate, at least you have an idea, than go into the dealer to test drive and only negotiate thru email. That is unless they offer you some awesome price right there on the spot, which is yet to happen to me because there is usually a catch

 

[bikejog]

I unfortunately don't have the original paperwork (it was in the glovebox and I sold the car in September), but I believe it had about 6 miles on the odometer. Yes, Costco is definitely not the only way to go, whatever route one goes, first research the invoice. My brother in law has a Consumer Reports subscription that shows you the invoice, and even if it's not completely 100 percent accurate, at least you have an idea, than go into the dealer to test drive and only negotiate thru email. That is unless they offer you some awesome price right there on the spot, which is yet to happen to me because there is usually a catch

Paperwork? How 90s. All my paperwork came in a thumb drive. lol... And all signatures were done on a big screen, my gosh must be 32", built into the desk. And as soon as I exited my car, there was an attendant right there to greet me (I insisted on social distancing of course) and direct me to the correct salesman. Maybe that's why I didn't get a great deal. They need money to pay for the renovation. lol...

 

[amirza786]

Paperwork? How 90s. All my paperwork came in a thumb drive. lol... And all signatures were done on a big screen, my gosh must be 32", built into the desk. And as soon as I exited my car, there was an attendant right there to greet me (I insisted on social distancing of course) and direct me to the correct salesman. Maybe that's why I didn't get a great deal. They need money to pay for the renovation. lol...

I meant the paperwork I signed (the sales invoice, registration etc). I had done all the financing electronically before I came in, but they still make you sign all the paperwork. They gave me most of the copies on a CD (which was in the glovebox), but the bill of sale, you know that long copy that breaks down everything you paid for, they still give that to you. And they printed it out on a Dot Matrix LOL

Nope, every piece of paper was printed out and I had to sign with a pen. They gave me electronic copies of some stuff on a CD

 

[bikejog]

I meant the paperwork I signed (the sales invoice, registration etc). I had done all the financing electronically before I came in, but they still make you sign all the paperwork. They gave me most of the copies on a CD (which was in the glovebox), but the bill of sale, you know that long copy that breaks down everything you paid for, they still give that to you. And they printed it out on a Dot Matrix LOL

Nope, every piece of paper was printed out and I had to sign with a pen. They gave me electronic copies of some stuff on a CD

Yeah you're right. I did all the electronic signatures in the finance guy's office. I think I still have to sign the sales order the old fashion way. But I didn't get any paper copies on those. The only paper copies I got was the Window Sticker, privacy agreement, and my credit score. I have yet to plug the thumb drive into my main computer fearing they might install some malware. I'll plug it into one of my Ubuntu builds some day.

 

[amirza786]

Yeah you're right. I did all the electronic signatures in the finance guy's office. I think I still have to sign the sales order the old fashion way. But I didn't get any paper copies on those. The only paper copies I got was the Window Sticker, privacy agreement, and my credit score. I have yet to plug the thumb drive into my main computer fearing they might install some malware. I'll plug it into one of my Ubuntu builds some day.

Use Tails or Kali Linux, you can do a live boot (you can do that with Ubuntu as well) and that way if something executes once you shut down its gone. If you have Windows 10 Pro, you can install Windows Sandbox and that way only the sandbox would get infected, once you shut it down everything is gone

 

[bikejog]

Use Tails or Kali Linux, you can do a live boot (you can do that with Ubuntu as well) and that way if something executes once you shut down its gone. If you have Windows 10 Pro, you can install Windows Sandbox and that way only the sandbox would get infected, once you shut it down everything is gone

Thanks for Windows Sandbox. Never heard of it 'till now.

But I try to stay away from VMs 'cause the way I see it is that the driver is still running on the host machine (I could be wrong) so still not 100% isolated. I guess I could use live boot, but I had Ubuntu installed on a 2nd drive on one of my laptops. All I got to do is disconnect the main drive in BIOS, read and send the files out via email, then wipe and re-install. Yeah but probably easiest just to live boot though.

 

[amirza786]

Thanks for Windows Sandbox. Never heard of it 'till now.

But I try to stay away from VMs 'cause the way I see it is that the driver is still running on the host machine (I could be wrong) so still not 100% isolated. I guess I could use live boot, but I had Ubuntu installed on a 2nd drive on one of my laptops. All I got to do is disconnect the main drive in BIOS, read and send the files out via email, then wipe and re-install. Yeah but probably easiest just to live boot though.

I can tell you from first hand experience that Windows Sandbox is 100 percent isolated from the "host computer". I use it all the time to test malware (being in IT for almost 30 years) samples and malicious links. But if you are not comfortable I can understand. Live boot definitely is a safe method as the boot source (ISO image) is read only

 

[bikejog]

I can tell you from first hand experience that Windows Sandbox is 100 percent isolated from the "host computer". I use it all the time to test malware (being in IT for almost 30 years) samples and malicious links. But if you are not comfortable I can understand. Live boot definitely is a safe method as the boot source (ISO image) is read only

I don't see my test thumb drive in Windows Sandbox. Google search seems to suggest the only way is to share the thumb drive on the host machine and access it as a shared folder in WS. If so that's not secured. I mean I could just install Ubuntu in Hyper-V at least that has USB pass thru but still not as secured as I'd like.

 

[amirza786]

I don't see my test thumb drive in Windows Sandbox. Google search seems to suggest the only way is to share the thumb drive on the host machine and access it as a shared folder in WS. If so that's not secured. I mean I could just install Ubuntu in Hyper-V at least that has USB pass thru but still not as secured as I'd like.

Yes, that's totally correct, I forgot about that. I've never tried to access a USB drive in Win Sandbox. The Ubuntu install in Hyper-V or VirtualBox would be easier for testing the USB. Booting into a Ubuntu Live instance would be the most secure method

 

[lex97h]

36 month and 12k mikes a year?

If that’s what ya got that’s the best lease I’ve seen on a Si.
Congrats!

That is correct. 12k miles a year for 36 months. Also, 15 cents per mile over.

 

[lex97h]

 

[lex97h]

So according to the contract, the sale price is $21697. The residual is $16335.

 

[RP2000R]

So according to the contract, the sale price is $21697. The residual is $16335.

Good deal.

My 18 Si Coupe was a lease.
3k down
15k a year
36 month
$229 a month with tax $239 (Seattle)
Residual $14370
Car came with all weather mats, ceramic tint, cargo tray and splash guards.

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