It should not be different. There are different diagrams in the service manual for different models/regions. This should be the one for youso i noticed everyone else keeps mentioning this Red wire, my 2020 coupe sport does not have a red wire on it, I'm curious how things are different
Sedan/Couple are similar. Some Hatch wiring are different. The RED wire you see in the first post is A13 which is present in the Hatch but not in the Sedan/Coupe (I guess unless you get one produced in Japan? This is a mess). HIs A23 is also Yellow like yours. There's a different wiring diagram, than the one I showed, for the Hatch.I guess in the end it really doesn't matter what the colors are. I also have that short brown stubby extension harness, I'll just chop off the ones that are un-used and mark the ones where they go. As long as they are the signal wires for the speakers, I'll use em - Is the Hatchback and Sedan made in Mexico? It would explain why 95% of everyone on here has the red wire while mine is yellow.
I do believe the hatchbacks were produced in the UK. My guess with the hatchback is that they receive extra signals for the tweeters in the back so the wiring is similar not but 100% exact as the sedan/coupeMine was made in Canada, per my window sticker. No coupe was made in Japan far as I know as it's purely a North America market body style. With an American Engine and an Indian transmission. These really are Global cars these days. Appreciate the help.
The harness will work for you. You would tap into the front two speakers as they offer the best signal for your LOC. Just follow the diagram and tap into A15-A18. I also added the same speakers but they definitely could do better with a DSP or amp.
I think it may work for the Si since it does not have the premium sound system, but would not work on the touring. But don't quote me on thatWill that eBay wiring harness work for the si/touring/r?
The Si has the subwoofer and all the fancy stuff as the touring, just not a rear trunk sub.I think it may work for the Si since it does not have the premium sound system, but would not work on the touring. But don't quote me on that
Curious why you would use front speaker connections vs rear? They are all full range?The harness will work for you. You would tap into the front two speakers as they offer the best signal for your LOC. Just follow the diagram and tap into A15-A18. I also added the same speakers but they definitely could do better with a DSP or amp.
There was a post in another thread that stated that the rear speaker signals are weakCurious why you would use front speaker connections vs rear? They are all full range?
There was a post in another thread that stated that the rear speaker signals are weak
Thanks. I'm adding a 10" sub to an 11th gen Sport Hatch and bought the PAC LP7-2, not thinking about potential EQ and bass roll-off issues. I'll try with that first, but may end up getting the LC2i or LC2i Pro. Just trying to bolster the weak low end.the rears are artificially tuned down to create a more "frontal sound stage" by the radios onboard EQ - which is not accessible by normal means unless you've hacked the headunit, i believe there's a sharp BASS roll off as well which is worse in the back than the front.
i tapped into the front L+R wires directly post-amp. ran those to the back with speed wire to an LC2i Pro. the pro really restores the bass well, also having the acr remote really makes the difference because you can blast the subs or have them nearly muted.Thanks. I'm adding a 10" sub to an 11th gen Sport Hatch and bought the PAC LP7-2, not thinking about potential EQ and bass roll-off issues. I'll try with that first, but may end up getting the LC2i or LC2i Pro. Just trying to bolster the weak low end.