I second exactly what this man is saying. Once I need my oil swapped out I will be going to a different (redline) oil. 0w20 is fine for most people/daily driving. If you have any sprinted or track use I would use a thicker oil.I am telling people do do anything people can do what they want buddy... read I said what I am going to do. I stated at 6-7000 miles yes you can change your oil... I mean that kind of a no brainer. Go on other forums an see what they run or not even that go ask some people what they run in Subaru’s sti’s Wrx’s gtr’s evo’s whatever you want to look at... that actually run them on the track or run them hard. There not running 0w-20 I can tell you that... I sure don’t run 0w-40 in my gtr. I run 5w-50 amsoil signature series oil.. my car is fine not one hiccup 41k on it. I also change it every 2000 miles so I don’t need my oil looked at to tell me that I can let it go til 7000 miles. My Buick grand national calls for 10w-30 I run 20w-50 vr1 Valvoline you going to tell me I am dumb for running that. Do what you want to do. I will do what I have been doing the last 21 years I have been driving cars. Never blew an engine up from an oil related issue. Pushing power well that another issue
There hasn't been any factual evidence that shows a heavier oil protects the engine better than a high quality 0w-20.I second exactly what this man is saying. Once I need my oil swapped out I will be going to a different (redline) oil. 0w20 is fine for most people/daily driving. If you have any sprinted or track use I would use a thicker oil.
I’ve ran 15w50 redline in my turbo b18c5 motor for 5 years now. It’s still the same as day 1 on the build. Heat and fuel dilution from the ridiculous injectors play a big factor in why I use this.
Well his name does have turbo in it.Seems Turboshawn knows everything so please guys don't follow the manual and disregard what the engineers who built this car from scratch say. Just listen to Turboshawn and you'll be ok. The stupidity in this thread
Under heavy load or sustained high temps, I could see why a heavier grade oil would be beneficial. Oil thins as it gets hotter, the 0W-20 that Honda recommends is going to be based on what they expect the motor to be under, or better yet what the warranty will most likely cover. That would specifically be under either full road work or a mix of road/track where the engine temps don't go as high so the "thinness" sustained by a 0W-20 may be fine for. However, if you switch to full track work that may change and it may become beneficial for the car to use a heavier grade oil.There hasn't been any factual evidence that shows a heavier oil protects the engine better than a high quality 0w-20.
I’ll argue and say your evidence is anecdotal. My UOAs are with a high quality 0w-20 oil that doesn’t sheer. A 5w-30 that sheers down to 0w-20 is the same as a 0w-20 that doesn’t sheer...Under heavy load or sustained high temps, I could see why a heavier grade oil would be beneficial. Oil thins as it gets hotter, the 0W-20 that Honda recommends is going to be based on what they expect the motor to be under, or better yet what the warranty will most likely cover. That would specifically be under either full road work or a mix of road/track where the engine temps don't go as high so the "thinness" sustained by a 0W-20 may be fine for. However, if you switch to full track work that may change and it may become beneficial for the car to use a heavier grade oil.
It's also interesting to note that in the manual @The Vyzitor showed (it does differ from the US manual I have which he does state), Honda recommends a different grade of oil if genuine Honda oil isn't available, specifically they recommend 5W-30 or 0W-30 vs the 0W-20 stock oil. It's also possible that Honda specifically formulated an oil for the 2.0T CTR motor that doesn't get as thin as "conventional" 0W-20 oil at higher temps.
There is factual reasons why a thicker oil would protect the motor better. But it is also the case that in other markets Honda says that the only 0W-20 that should be used in the CTR is Honda's and if you don't have Honda's available to use a heavier weight oil which makes me think there is something special about Honda's formulation. Now, what we need is a ProjectFarm-esque test with Honda 0W-20, "other brand" 0W-20, and "other brand" 0W-30/5W-30 to see how they compare in heat, cold, and after being "worn"
It depends on the load, age and temperature. It is very naïve to say that your high quality 0W-20 doesn't sheer (never?). You can also find 0W-30 and 0W-40 oils that don't sheer (most of the time).I’ll argue and say your evidence is anecdotal. My UOAs are with a high quality 0w-20 oil that doesn’t sheer. A 5w-30 that sheers down to 0w-20 is the same as a 0w-20 that doesn’t sheer...
Looking at the tolerances chart for oil viscosity, and me living in California (lowest temps we see here are ~35 Fahrenheit and can get as hot as ~110 Fahrenheit during the summer. If I don't track too often, but do drive the car spiritedly a few times a month, would it be better for me to use 5W-30 instead of 0W-20 or 30?My Honda dealer said 0W-20 is for the emission homologation. They advised me to use 0W-40 Castrol Edge. Sometimes I even use 10W-60 (track use). No problems ever. I use the same Castrol Edge in my DC2 and S2k.
0W-20 Honda oil type 2 is fine for normal use, you don't HAVE to use something else.
Just don't use the 0W-20 Honda Type 1 oil, which is for hybrid vehicles.