2018 Civic Hatchback EX Head Unit Stereo Wiring

[BrandonSmith]

Any update?

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[nicksaurusrex]

@BrandonSmith Not much yet - finally got my hands on 1 amp fuses. Those things are hard to find. Was talkin with a guy at NAPA who used to install car audio systems about the noise and he’s thinking it could be the computer freaking out with the voltage draw of the amp. He’s gonna take a look at my install tomorrow morning, so I’ll have more to share after.

 

[nicksaurusrex]

@BrandonSmith he looked at my setup and said I’m doing everything right except I should pull 12v power for the LC2i from the amp and I should only ground the LC2i in the trunk instead of pulling power and running ground through the head unit wiring.

The noise wasn’t nearly as bad this morning when turning on the car but he was pretty certain it’s just the fuel pump. He’s done installs on 10th gen Civics and also said I should get a capacitor to put in the 12v line for the amp - that way I don’t kill my battery and my alternator doesn’t get over-worked and crap out in a few months.

I’ll be putting it all back together tomorrow evening to test the system and update again.

 

[BrandonSmith]

Good to hear. How big is your amp to warrant a capacitor?

 

[nicksaurusrex]

Good to hear. How big is your amp to warrant a capacitor?

Actually just hooked it all up right now and sub works! I haven’t started my car since it’s garaged and I couldn’t take a video since I can’t record and play music on my phone at the same time.

The amp says 1,200 watts on the front and I’m thinking that’s max, so it’s probably 500-600 watts RMS. I honestly think it’s too big an amp to only power one 12” sub but I got the amp, sub, and box free from a truck my bro was selling.

He recommended a 1 farad capacitor since he did an install on a 2019 Civic and the battery and alternator had to be replaced after a few months. I guess it’s too much power draw on these Civic batteries and alternators.

The noise is very prominent again like the video I showed you so I’m thinking the power draw of the amp is causing the noise on the alternator - this is purely a guess though.

One question - I’m pulling power for my amp at the fuse box power input shown below. This point is hot with the ignition off but my LC2i and amp shuts off after about 30 seconds - kinda like how the headlights cut off after a short time when you shut the car off. Is this a good point to draw power? I’m wondering if it’ll drain my battery overnight.

 

[nicksaurusrex]

@BrandonSmith here are my amp specs. It’s a Visonik v718xd. The alternator should be ok handling this but I need to look at my sub ohm rating as well.

 

[BrandonSmith]

Actually just hooked it all up right now and sub works! I haven’t started my car since it’s garaged and I couldn’t take a video since I can’t record and play music on my phone at the same time.

The amp says 1,200 watts on the front and I’m thinking that’s max, so it’s probably 500-600 watts RMS. I honestly think it’s too big an amp to only power one 12” sub but I got the amp, sub, and box free from a truck my bro was selling.

He recommended a 1 farad capacitor since he did an install on a 2019 Civic and the battery and alternator had to be replaced after a few months. I guess it’s too much power draw on these Civic batteries and alternators.

The noise is very prominent again like the video I showed you so I’m thinking the power draw of the amp is causing the noise on the alternator - this is purely a guess though.

One question - I’m pulling power for my amp at the fuse box power input shown below. This point is hot with the ignition off but my LC2i and amp shuts off after about 30 seconds - kinda like how the headlights cut off after a short time when you shut the car off. Is this a good point to draw power? I’m wondering if it’ll drain my battery overnight.

It's no different than connecting directly to the battery terminal. The remote will tell your amp and LOC to turn on and shut off, so it won't drain your battery. Whatever you have as your remote source will dictate how long the amp stays on.

 

[nicksaurusrex]

It's no different than connecting directly to the battery terminal. The remote will tell your amp and LOC to turn on and shut off, so it won't drain your battery. Whatever you have as your remote source will dictate how long the amp stays on.

Cool, that makes sense! Tested my sub and it’s 4.5 ohms so based on my amp’s specs this would put it at a little less than 500 watts RMS. I think the Civic alternator is fully capable of supplying that power.

Thanks again for all the help and I’ll update if anything changes.

 

[BrandonSmith]

Glad to hear it's up and running! I'm in DFW btw, not sure what part of TX you're in

You inspired me to put a sub in my Civic lol I'm going with a Cerwin Vega underseat sub (VPAS10) because I don't need much bass, just enough. Spent ALL day doing the wiring. Took both front seats out and ran the wiring under the carpet. What a day.

 

[nicksaurusrex]

Glad to hear it's up and running! I'm in DFW btw, not sure what part of TX you're in

You inspired me to put a sub in my Civic lol I'm going with a Cerwin Vega underseat sub (VPAS10) because I don't need much bass, just enough. Spent ALL day doing the wiring. Took both front seats out and ran the wiring under the carpet. What a day.

DFW is crazy big. I’m in San Antonio, so a little smaller and kind of far.

Nice! Yeah, I think just a little bass is enough. This sub right now cranks too hard so I need to tone it down.

It definitely takes some time to do it all right and learn along the way. What Civic do you have?

 

[BrandonSmith]

DFW is crazy big. I’m in San Antonio, so a little smaller and kind of far.

Nice! Yeah, I think just a little bass is enough. This sub right now cranks too hard so I need to tone it down.

It definitely takes some time to do it all right and learn along the way. What Civic do you have?

2016 EX Sedan

 

[nicksaurusrex]

2016 EX Sedan

Right on. Good luck and if you need pointers, I may have a few lol

 

[Stoney4life78]

This is the stereo wiring diagram for a 5-door EX hatchback (FK7). I'm typing what's in the picture so others can find this through search.

Use the Red (A13) for acc as the yellow (A23) is for the rear camera.

If you're wiring the LOC to the front speakers:
FL+ is Light Green (A15)
FL- is Light Blue (A16)
FR+ is Grey (A17)
FR- is Purple (A18)

If you're wiring the LOC to the rear speakers:
RL+ is Blue (A5)
RL- is White (A6)
RR+ is Yellow (A7)
RR- is Brown (A8) - NOTE: There is another brown wire in this connector (A3) so don't mix them up!

Hey! Funny guy! Beo! Thank you so much! I thought I was stepping into shit and you saved the day!

 

[BrandonSmith]

Hey! Funny guy! Beo! Thank you so much! I thought I was stepping into shit and you saved the day!

I do what I can - you're welcome

 

[RiceRiceBabyBoi]

This is the stereo wiring diagram for a 5-door EX hatchback (FK7). I'm typing what's in the picture so others can find this through search.

Use the Red (A13) for acc as the yellow (A23) is for the rear camera.

If you're wiring the LOC to the front speakers:
FL+ is Light Green (A15)
FL- is Light Blue (A16)
FR+ is Grey (A17)
FR- is Purple (A18)

If you're wiring the LOC to the rear speakers:
RL+ is Blue (A5)
RL- is White (A6)
RR+ is Yellow (A7)
RR- is Brown (A8) - NOTE: There is another brown wire in this connector (A3) so don't mix them up!

would this be the best diagram to follow for the wiring to the factory head unit? i have the exact same model, 4 door EX 1.5LT . i check the trunk and saw that on the right speaker harness there is ( blue and white wire 2 sets of each color ) and on the left there is ( Borwn and yellow wire )