2018 Civic Ex Amp/Sub install

jtj5002

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I recommend tapping the sub + one of the front speaker. With the equalizer on the head unit all in the middle and the factory sub set to 4, this is the measured output of my amp with a 24 hz subsonic filter and a 24db/octave low pass filter active.

Tapping the sub only gives you a nasty peak 30hz that pretty much dies after 40hz. Tapping the front gives you a 70-80 hz peak that rolls off at about 12db/octave. Both of which are pretty terrible if you listen to a wide variety of music.

You could also fine tune it to a flatter output by lowering the sub output on the head unit, or raise my low pass filter to 120. I did not find that necessary because the factory front speakers have a pretty big peak output at 60-100hz and blends pretty well with the sub.

I use an audiocontrol ACM 1.300 which has a lci2 built in. I did not find the accubass really useful. I just set my gain with the head unit volume at 35. Make sure when you set you measure where your amp's peak output is at, and then use that frequency test tone to set it.

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jtj5002

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I don’t have a factory sub.
In that case hook it up to the front speakers and measure factory amp to see what you have to work with. Base audio system probably still have a roll off for the front speakers. Use a voltage meter to measure ac current and play test tones from 30-80 to see what kind of curve you are dealing with. You can use lci2 as a 30-40hz eq boost if you turn the threshold all the way up and use it to flatten the signal if needed.
 

bay_hatch

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Now I'm trying to figure out which one of these and which colors I tap into to run 9 wire to LC2i
IMG-0108.jpg
IMG-0107.jpg
Can I ask which connector you used? I'm doing this on my 2020 sport soon and i believe it uses the same connector
 
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ajwalter89

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Can I ask which connector you used? I'm doing this on my 2020 sport soon and i believe it uses the same connector

It’s the top one. The other one would be if you were installing an aftermarket and trying to connect input functions like Bluetooth. Diagram in this thread matches up exactly with the top one.
 


IByrdl

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I recommend tapping the sub + one of the front speaker. With the equalizer on the head unit all in the middle and the factory sub set to 4, this is the measured output of my amp with a 24 hz subsonic filter and a 24db/octave low pass filter active.

Tapping the sub only gives you a nasty peak 30hz that pretty much dies after 40hz. Tapping the front gives you a 70-80 hz peak that rolls off at about 12db/octave. Both of which are pretty terrible if you listen to a wide variety of music.

You could also fine tune it to a flatter output by lowering the sub output on the head unit, or raise my low pass filter to 120. I did not find that necessary because the factory front speakers have a pretty big peak output at 60-100hz and blends pretty well with the sub.

I use an audiocontrol ACM 1.300 which has a lci2 built in. I did not find the accubass really useful. I just set my gain with the head unit volume at 35. Make sure when you set you measure where your amp's peak output is at, and then use that frequency test tone to set it.
To tap the sub and speaker together, do I just combine the wires into the LOC input? My LOC is a cheap one with just L/R +/- inputs. Or would I need a more feature rich LOC to do that? Right now I'm just trying to add my mono amp/sub to the trunk and pull signal from the best location. My amp also has a connector for Front/Rear L/R inputs, should I just use those from the back of the HU instead of an LOC?
 
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jtj5002

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To tap the sub and speaker together, do I just combine the wires into the LOC input? My LOC is a cheap one with just L/R +/- inputs. Or would I need a more feature rich LOC to do that? Right now I'm just trying to add my mono amp/sub to the trunk and pull signal from the best location. My amp also has a connector for Front/Rear L/R inputs, should I just use those from the back of the HU instead of an LOC?
I tapped the sub and only the right front speaker. You would need a 4+ channel LOC with signal summing if you want to tap both front speakers.

Are your amp connectors RCA or high level input? Most high level input on amps have a upper limit of 10v. There are a few that can take up to 40v inputs. The factory sub output does well over 10v and would not work with most amp's high level input.
 

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I tapped the sub and only the right front speaker. You would need a 4+ channel LOC with signal summing if you want to tap both front speakers.

Are your amp connectors RCA or high level input? Most high level input on amps have a upper limit of 10v. There are a few that can take up to 40v inputs. The factory sub output does well over 10v and would not work with most amp's high level input.
My amp has both RCA and high level inputs. Manual says 4Ohm 0.4-10V for the High level. It has front/rear L/R, should I grab all 4 full range speakers or just one front?
 

jtj5002

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My amp has both RCA and high level inputs. Manual says 4Ohm 0.4-10V for the High level. It has front/rear L/R, should I grab all 4 full range speakers or just one front?
I would grab the both the fronts. Rear speakers don't have much output and the sub output goes well over 10v.
 




 


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