2017 Si w/ 28k miles. Emissions problem, Power Steering problem, Traction Control problem, Hill Assist problem, etc.

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So here are the heads of the pistons, anyone notice any sign of contact with a valve? I’ll get some pictures of the valves tomorrow

Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 Si w/ 28k miles. Emissions problem, Power Steering problem, Traction Control problem, Hill Assist problem, etc. 029EA680-FD30-4F9D-9810-516F8054D048


Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 Si w/ 28k miles. Emissions problem, Power Steering problem, Traction Control problem, Hill Assist problem, etc. C7446D59-3CA8-4069-9765-4D024903F582


Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 Si w/ 28k miles. Emissions problem, Power Steering problem, Traction Control problem, Hill Assist problem, etc. AAAA27AB-097B-4EC4-8EE6-668BD645CF84


Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 Si w/ 28k miles. Emissions problem, Power Steering problem, Traction Control problem, Hill Assist problem, etc. 960369C0-9B79-4E16-8103-8D87045B1399
 
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They look fine. Did you get a sat compression check before disassembly?
The dealer did not do a compression test before removing the head, I took it home disassembled. I am going to have to get a new gasket, put it together and have it tested at a shop (not the dealer lol).
 

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The dealer did not do a compression test before removing the head, I took it home disassembled. I am going to have to get a new gasket, put it together and have it tested at a shop (not the dealer lol).
My experience is somewhat limited... but I have changed a head with bent valves once before. Doing a compression test is obviously better and provides quantifiable data. You could visually see valves bent and not seating on gross damage or shine a light and see if they’re seating properly as no light should pass (for this... the head would obviously be off... with the cam not acting on any valve).

In its current condition you can also pour a little bit of oil on top of the pistons... and see if you have gross leakage past the rings. I have had the rings all line up and it blew a bit of smoke and had lower compression on a small engine before. I assumed it was ring/cylinder wear and got a new sleeve and rings and found them all inline instead of 120 degrees out from each other. That’d cause bad compression... but you’d likely have some healthy oil blow by and be leaving blue smoke behind you.

I‘ve read through the thread and, to be honest, I kind of don’t see the jump that got to this point other than “overrev code and dealer said engine was toast”. I guess that’s it?

The one engine I did a head on that had bent valves had kissed the tops of the pistons but the pistons were good enough to slap a junkyard head on and keep going. I was fixing it for one of my Sailors and took the opportunity to help him while learning myself at that time. The smooth circles on the top of your pistons look normal based on comparing it to another one.

(shrug) Don’t know. Injectors... plugs... coil packs... all those things can make for a dead/misfiring cylinder. Sucks a compression check wasn’t ever performed. I’m thinking the techs were Easter egging.
 
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My experience is somewhat limited... but I have changed a head with bent valves once before. Doing a compression test is obviously better and provides quantifiable data. You could visually see valves bent and not seating on gross damage or shine a light and see if they’re seating properly as no light should pass (for this... the head would obviously be off... with the cam not acting on any valve).

In its current condition you can also pour a little bit of oil on top of the pistons... and see if you have gross leakage past the rings. I have had the rings all line up and it blew a bit of smoke and had lower compression on a small engine before. I assumed it was ring/cylinder wear and got a new sleeve and rings and found them all inline instead of 120 degrees out from each other. That’d cause bad compression... but you’d likely have some healthy oil blow by and be leaving blue smoke behind you.

I‘ve read through the thread and, to be honest, I kind of don’t see the jump that got to this point other than “overrev code and dealer said engine was toast”. I guess that’s it?

The one engine I did a head on that had bent valves had kissed the tops of the pistons but the pistons were good enough to slap a junkyard head on and keep going. I was fixing it for one of my Sailors and took the opportunity to help him while learning myself at that time. The smooth circles on the top of your pistons look normal based on comparing it to another one.

(shrug) Don’t know. Injectors... plugs... coil packs... all those things can make for a dead/misfiring cylinder. Sucks a compression check wasn’t ever performed. I’m thinking the techs were Easter egging.
What I’m assuming at this point is the faulty fuel injectors were responsible for the initial problem, yet the over rev code made them over look the extended warranty covered repair as a solution. It was brought in initially for the p0304 fix, which was not addressed whatsoever... I’m going to fiddle with the motor over the weekend, probably test the light and oil tricks you suggested.

From what I understand, if damage was done from an over rev, it would have been noticeable immediately. However, the car was driven with no problems for months at highway speeds daily until one morning the dash lit up like a Christmas tree.

My main concern at this point would be that even with an over rev and drivetrain warranty void, I could have had the car back in a day and for less than 1000, yet I was charged 6700 dollars and without my car for a month. On top of that, with an engine swap tied to the vin at 30k miles, my cars value has been seriously diminished for what I’m starting to believe no reason other than for the dealer to bring in some extra cash.
 
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What I’m assuming at this point is the faulty fuel injectors were responsible for the initial problem, yet the over rev code made them over look the extended warranty covered repair as a solution. It was brought in initially for the p0304 fix, which was not addressed whatsoever... I’m going to fiddle with the motor over the weekend, probably test the light and oil tricks you suggested.

From what I understand, if damage was done from an over rev, it would have been noticeable immediately. However, the car was driven with no problems for months at highway speeds daily until one morning the dash lit up like a Christmas tree.

My main concern at this point would be that even with an over rev and drivetrain warranty void, I could have had the car back in a day and for less than 1000, yet I was charged 6700 dollars and without my car for a month. On top of that, with an engine swap tied to the vin at 30k miles, my cars value has been seriously diminished for what I’m starting to believe no reason other than for the dealer to bring in some extra cash.
I was hoping my trip to the dealership today might give some insight since our “symptoms’ appear identical but they are scratching their heads. They gave me a loaner car and told me they have no idea when I’ll get my car back right now. They got the same code for the left rear wheel speed sensor my regular mechanic got but nothing else. Said that might would cause the ABS warnings but that is it. They are replacing that for me and then they don’t know where to go from there just yet. All covered under my extended warranty thankfully because even through they can’t say exactly what’s wrong, it’s apparently something wrong with a major component of the car.
 

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The P0304 should be covered under the warranty extension Honda issued if I remember right that we all got a letter on. That’s cylinder 4 misfire?
 
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The P0304 should be covered under the warranty extension Honda issued if I remember right that we all got a letter on. That’s cylinder 4 misfire?
You remember correct. The second time this problem happened after it was deemed to be caused by engine damage via driver abuse, and replaced... the faulty fuel injectors (they replaced all 4 and the rod) that it had to begin with were swapped out under the extended 6 year unlimited mile warranty.
 
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I was hoping my trip to the dealership today might give some insight since our “symptoms’ appear identical but they are scratching their heads. They gave me a loaner car and told me they have no idea when I’ll get my car back right now. They got the same code for the left rear wheel speed sensor my regular mechanic got but nothing else. Said that might would cause the ABS warnings but that is it. They are replacing that for me and then they don’t know where to go from there just yet. All covered under my extended warranty thankfully because even through they can’t say exactly what’s wrong, it’s apparently something wrong with a major component of the car.
Just got mine back. Just the wheel speed sensor for mine. Sorry I couldn’t help more!
 

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Take your head to a machine ship, they have ways of checking to see if any of the valves are not seating correctly. I think you are going to find that your engine was fine. Clearly they didn’t solve your problem by swapping it out, so the problem must be in one of the control modules, sensors, or damaged wiring?

i had rats chew right through my EPS harness and my transmission harness in two separate places. But I’ve had all these lights on for over a year and my car still drives great.

do not let anyone take that motor, it is your smoking gun if you decide to take action against Honda.
 


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Take your head to a machine ship, they have ways of checking to see if any of the valves are not seating correctly. I think you are going to find that your engine was fine. Clearly they didn’t solve your problem by swapping it out, so the problem must be in one of the control modules, sensors, or damaged wiring?

i had rats chew right through my EPS harness and my transmission harness in two separate places. But I’ve had all these lights on for over a year and my car still drives great.

do not let anyone take that motor, it is your smoking gun if you decide to take action against Honda.
At the point of your post, Honda's lawyers could rather easily argue to have the engine deemed inadmissible as evidence citing the possibility that he spent the time trying to hide damage to it.

I find it hard to believe a compression test wasn't done on the original engine before partial disassembly. Barring a TSB, typical diagnostic order for a misfire is to swap coils, swap plugs, swap injectors, then do a compression test. Then inspect with a borescope before removing the cylinder head.

As for the P0219..... It's part of the OBD2 spec. It has very specific criteria for setting. There is no diagnostic procedure, so most manufacturers omit it from code lists.
 


 


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