2017 Si w/ 28k miles. Emissions problem, Power Steering problem, Traction Control problem, Hill Assist problem, etc.

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Majority of people with multiple systems failing is from a dying battery, these cars came with really shitty batteries from the factory
That was my initial thought when it happened the first time. I have had a hum plugged into the OBD port and at the time recently got a radar detector so I thought maybe having both plugged in started eating at the battery. As silly as it sounds considering the problem led to getting a new motor, maybe they didn’t think to check the battery due to the over rev code they immediately deemed responsible?
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That was my initial thought when it happened the first time. I have had a hum plugged into the OBD port and at the time recently got a radar detector so I thought maybe having both plugged in started eating at the battery. As silly as it sounds considering the problem led to getting a new motor, maybe they didn’t think to check the battery due to the over rev code they immediately deemed responsible?
Just search the forums for Christmas tree lights and it’s 99% of the time a dead battery
 

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All of the above...

But it also should be easy enough to switch the #4 coil to another cylinder and see if the misfire follows it. Also still got wire damage in the corner of my eye. I'm guessing Honda used the existing wires/coils to connect to the new engine.

But yeah... your shit should be working. I hope you get it solved.
 
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All of the above...

But it also should be easy enough to switch the #4 coil to another cylinder and see if the misfire follows it. Also still got wire damage in the corner of my eye. I'm guessing Honda used the existing wires/coils to connect to the new engine.

But yeah... your shit should be working. I hope you get it solved.
It’s being towed over 60 miles to the dealer today and they offered to cover the cost of that so far. Moving forwards I’m hoping they are as generous when it comes to the repair bill. This time around I’m hoping there’s no chance for them to pitch the blame towards me and investigate everything from sparks coils and injectors to the wiring harness.
 

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I am having this EXACT problem with my 2017 Si. Was driving back from the grocery store and all sorts of warnings came on...ABS, VSA, tire pressure monitoring, hill start, park brake, electric brake, etc. Something similar happened at 35,000 miles where my car died for no reason and when I had it jumped off, all these same lights came on. Dealer said bad cell in battery and replaced. Has been fine. Now, 68,000 miles, did it in the middle of driving. AND my car beeps when I try to cut it off. I have to hold the start button for a full 5 seconds or so for it to cut off. Will be at dealership Saturday morning but if it’s not covered under manufacturer or my extended warranty, I’m screwed. It drives absolutely fine otherwise. Battery checked out fine.
 


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I am having this EXACT problem with my 2017 Si. Was driving back from the grocery store and all sorts of warnings came on...ABS, VSA, tire pressure monitoring, hill start, park brake, electric brake, etc. Something similar happened at 35,000 miles where my car died for no reason and when I had it jumped off, all these same lights came on. Dealer said bad cell in battery and replaced. Has been fine. Now, 68,000 miles, did it in the middle of driving. AND my car beeps when I try to cut it off. I have to hold the start button for a full 5 seconds or so for it to cut off. Will be at dealership Saturday morning but if it’s not covered under manufacturer or my extended warranty, I’m screwed. It drives absolutely fine otherwise. Battery checked out fine.
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Have you checked it for any codes?
Yes! I live 2 hours from dealership so I have regular maintenance done by a local mechanic. I had my oil changed today and he checked codes and it came back with left rear wheel speed sensor. I don’t have the specific code but that’s what it was.
 

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Yes! I live 2 hours from dealership so I have regular maintenance done by a local mechanic. I had my oil changed today and he checked codes and it came back with left rear wheel speed sensor. I don’t have the specific code but that’s what it was.
Sounds like it’s the same sensor OP triggered after hitting that possum. ?
 

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Sounds like it’s the same sensor OP triggered after hitting that possum. ?
They certainly aren’t putting a new engine in this one! I can’t wait for them to charge me diagnostic fee and tell me I’m imaging it like they did when I took it in for “screaming” when I turn the wheel to the left for the last 40,000 miles. Still screams, despite new tires and alignment like they suggested and regular rotations. I love this car but it’s been problematic.
 


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Update:

Turns out the fuel injectors were faulty and replaced under warranty (that I thought was voided from the over rev?) I am glad to have the car back so quickly, but quite mad at the situation. I was told my engine was malfunctioning due to the over rev and left to take responsibility for a 6700 dollar engine replacement and be without my car for a month. In reality, even with a drivetrain warranty void I could have had my car back in 2 days and for less than 1000....

I would really like to begin pursuing compensation for what I feel was basically malpractice on the dealerships end. As a young man money does not grow on trees for me and I feel cheated by Honda. I appreciate everyone’s input since the start, it has been a stressful endeavor and it means a lot to me.

Nate
 

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Update:

Turns out the fuel injectors were faulty and replaced under warranty (that I thought was voided from the over rev?) I am glad to have the car back so quickly, but quite mad at the situation. I was told my engine was malfunctioning due to the over rev and left to take responsibility for a 6700 dollar engine replacement and be without my car for a month. In reality, even with a drivetrain warranty void I could have had my car back in 2 days and for less than 1000....

I would really like to begin pursuing compensation for what I feel was basically malpractice on the dealerships end. As a young man money does not grow on trees for me and I feel cheated by Honda. I appreciate everyone’s input since the start, it has been a stressful endeavor and it means a lot to me.

Nate
Did they use the old injectors? ?‍♂
 

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Update:

Turns out the fuel injectors were faulty and replaced under warranty (that I thought was voided from the over rev?) I am glad to have the car back so quickly, but quite mad at the situation. I was told my engine was malfunctioning due to the over rev and left to take responsibility for a 6700 dollar engine replacement and be without my car for a month. In reality, even with a drivetrain warranty void I could have had my car back in 2 days and for less than 1000....

I would really like to begin pursuing compensation for what I feel was basically malpractice on the dealerships end. As a young man money does not grow on trees for me and I feel cheated by Honda. I appreciate everyone’s input since the start, it has been a stressful endeavor and it means a lot to me.

Nate
I think you are entitled to your money back and even more for the time and major inconvenience but I do not know the laws in the state you are in. I would contact Honda directly through registered mail with all the documentation and a summary and give them a chance to make right. I’d like to believe they are a good company and take pride in their reputation. Mine goes to dealer tomorrow at 2:45. Interested to see what they say.
 
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I think you are entitled to your money back and even more for the time and major inconvenience but I do not know the laws in the state you are in. I would contact Honda directly through registered mail with all the documentation and a summary and give them a chance to make right. I’d like to believe they are a good company and take pride in their reputation. Mine goes to dealer tomorrow at 2:45. Interested to see what they say.
Based on the reputation Honda has maintained since they began selling cars in the U.S.A. I would hope to think you are right.

To strengthen my case I am going to have a shop run a compression test on the original motor (which was not done the first time it happened, but just done on the new motor yesterday lol). If that results in a loss of compression in cylinder 4 , I am less likely to be as aggressive in my pursuit of compensation

With the head off the old motor, there is no sign of contact that I can see between the piston and valve. I’m at work but I’d be happy to take some pictures over the weekend to get some extra eyes on it.

If the compression test yields normal results, I feel the dealer should buy back my car at full trade in value, comp me for at least some of the motor, and get me in a new 2020 si for barely any money out of my pocket. I have had a great driving experience with my Honda and want to stay with the platform, but would feel much more confident in a refreshed model (and would love to finally have a volume knob haha).

If you live in a cold climate you should suggest to have them check the injectors, plugs, and battery before they take you on a wild goose chase. From what I have read so far the direct injection does not really like the cold and the battery is weak from the factory. Good luck tomorrow.
 
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Did they use the old injectors? ?‍♂
If they didn’t, the build quality must be terrible! However I am pretty sure they re used everything possible.
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