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2017 Sedan 2.0 Brake Pads/Rotors

OilChange123

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I'll be changing the rear brake pads and rotors on my 2017 civic sedan with the NA motor (Don't know if the brakes differ between the trims). This will be my first time doing any sort of maintenance on my car by myself/not from a mechanic. I've watched a number of youtube videos and guides and the process seems fairly straight forward and and good DIY job for a beginner. I'll also have a very experienced friend with me should any issues arise. So I'm confident it's something I'm capable of doing.

I don't have any sort of tools because I've never worked on a car before, so I'm going out some time this week to buy everything that I'll need. I was wondering if you guys could check over my checklist and let me know if I'm missing anything and/or any tips for doing this job.

This is on my list:

Floor jack with two jack stands and wheel chock
1. A socket and socket wrench set. I'm looking at this one: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-socket-set-21-pc-0589207p.html#srp
Never having bought tools before, I'm learning a fair about drive sizes, socket sizes and so on.
2. Lug nut wrench to remove tires
3. Breaker bar possibly
4. Torque wrench
5. High temp anti seize
6. Brake grease
7. Piston compressor tool :https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-28600-...a71b4ca682c43bc8284dc19b8e4114&language=en_US
and something to compress it with
8. Brake pads and rotors

Is there anything that I'm missing in the list? Thank you



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bluehatch17

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Brake cleaner. I use 1 can per axle. So 1 for front,1 for rear.
 
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Thank you! I'll add that to the shopping list
Put cardboard under the rotor and spray the rotor and caliper with the cleaner liberally before doing anything else. Brake dust can be cancerous If you breathe it, spraying the cleaner will take care of most of it and whatever is left will be moist and can't fly into the air.
 

fitter_here

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I replaced mine a few months ago. I ordered from Rockauto for about $112 (CDN) including taxes and shipping.
Part number: Pads: QC1878, Rotors: BR90146002
Remove both EPB and reset by turning clockwise before pushing the piston in. Don't try to turn the piston inside the caliper.
Leave the EPB connected, you don't have to disconnect.

EPB Removal.JPG


Caliper Removal.JPG
 
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OilChange123

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I replaced mine a few months ago. I ordered from Rockauto for about $112 (CDN) including taxes and shipping.
Part number: Pads: QC1878, Rotors: BR90146002
Remove both EPB and reset by turning clockwise before pushing the piston in. Don't try to turn the piston inside the caliper.
Leave the EPB connected, you don't have to disconnect.

EPB Removal.JPG


Caliper Removal.JPG
I'm not so sure about doing this manually so I'll probably just buy the OBD tool that I saw people used successfully in the type R forum to retract the EPB. This is the tool: https://www.amazon.ca/Scanner-Bluetooth-Diagnoses-Simplified-Diagnostic/dp/B07RMHG8P2

As far as I can tell it should work just the same in my FC2. Do I still need to compress the caliper piston if I use this tool or does this take care of it?
 

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I'm not so sure about doing this manually so I'll probably just buy the OBD tool that I saw people used successfully in the type R forum to retract the EPB. This is the tool: https://www.amazon.ca/Scanner-Bluetooth-Diagnoses-Simplified-Diagnostic/dp/B07RMHG8P2

As far as I can tell it should work just the same in my FC2. Do I still need to compress the caliper piston if I use this tool or does this take care of it?
Yes, you still have to push the piston in.
I've never tried the OBD tool, it's much cheaper to remove the EPB manually and doesn't take long to do either, but this is your choice.
 

M16

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i retract the caliper piston by disconnecting the EPB wiring harness connector (not the end which is connected to the EPB, but the other end under the wheel well shield) , which has 4 pins. 2 for the abs sensor, 2 for the EPB motor. the EPB motor pins are the larger ones. apply +12v to one pin, ground to the other. the piston will retract or extend, depending on the polarity. you will know when it is fully retracted or extended when the sound of the motor changes. stop applying voltage when this sound change occurs. be careful you dont accidentally have it extending then it pops out, because you'll be screwed. when you apply the voltage, if you are trying to retract it, and it starts extending, stop immediately and reverse the polarity. now you know the correct polarities for extend or retract. i dont have a picture to show the correct polarity for retract or extend.
 

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i retract the caliper piston by disconnecting the EPB wiring harness connector (not the end which is connected to the EPB, but the other end under the wheel well shield) , which has 4 pins. 2 for the abs sensor, 2 for the EPB motor. the EPB motor pins are the larger ones. apply +12v to one pin, ground to the other. the piston will retract or extend, depending on the polarity. you will know when it is fully retracted or extended when the sound of the motor changes. stop applying voltage when this sound change occurs. be careful you dont accidentally have it extending then it pops out, because you'll be screwed. when you apply the voltage, if you are trying to retract it, and it starts extending, stop immediately and reverse the polarity. now you know the correct polarities for extend or retract. i dont have a picture to show the correct polarity for retract or extend.
I was going to do it like you mentioned above but it would have been harder to disconnect the connector, sometimes the plastic becomes brittle and I didn't want to break the connector, so I opted for the EPB removal.
 
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M16

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I was going to do it like you mentioned above but it would have been harder to disconnect the connector, sometimes the plastic becomes brittle and I didn't want to break the connector, so I opted for the EPB removal.
i thought about epb removal, but in the service manual, honda recommends replacing the bolts and gasket each time you remove it. i wouldn't risk using the old ones and have water leak or debris get in there and ruin the motor. harness is easier and cheaper than to replace the motor.
 

M16

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I kept the same bolts and “O” rings, I smeared a bit of vaseline on the “O” rings, no problems at all
i would rather use a silicone lubricant instead. vaseline is petroleum based, which can eat, degrade or swell the rubber in the o-rings.
 
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OilChange123

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For anyone that's used to the Autel AP200 device to put the epb into service mode, can I turn the car off once it's in service mode or do I need to leave my key in the ignition the entire time?
 

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