2017 Hatchback Smart Entry issue.......anybody experience this yet......

oshgo3

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Just wanted to comment that your issues appears a little different than the others. Re-reading your post, you are saying only your driver's-side door handle was malfunctioning, but not the passenger door or trunk, correct?

In my case (and I believe the others reported here) NO door handles nor the hatch registers touch to unlock.

I just wanted to clarify because your fix sounds more specific to the one handle malfunctioning, while the issue originally raised appears to affect ALL touch entry points simultaneously. But thanks for the info still!
Well, now that I have gone back to the beginning of this post I think that that you are correct, my apologies. When searching the web for others having the same issues I was having, this site popped up. While reading through the forums I found one that was exactly what I was looking for. In one of the posts, a member told the readers to call Honda (1-800-999-1009) and report the issue. I did exactly that and that helped expedite the repairs, I was so excited to log in and report my experience and success that I did not post it where I wanted. Again, my apologies. But, thank you all for sharing, together we get it done!!
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raibola

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That's a bummer, hopefully it works for you when you try it yourself. It's been working fine for me since the day I reset it. Only thing I can note is that my Proximity Entry started acting up after a few days straight of random heavy door pours all day. My dealership scrubbed me off a few times as well but after complaining about it to my sales associate about a dozen times she finally had their techs look at it. They tried factory resetting the computer and disconnecting the Karr Alarm, neither worked but disconnecting the battery did. I have 3 other friends with the EX-T Sedan and have had no issues. As a side note they park their cars in or under a sheltered structure while mine is on the drive way.
It did work out for me. I went to Vegas the next day after my last post here and me and my uncle did remove the negative battery terminal for like a minute or so. Drove it around for awhile and recalibrated everything. I did notice that all my presets are the same which is good. So I guess it's safe to say for ex hatchbacks it will never mess up your saved settings but there is one giveaway though that confirmed my hunch that the service guys did not remove my battery terminal. I noticed that after removing the battery, my MPG estimate went back to 0. Correct me guys if I'm wrong, but it just made me think that if they really did remove the battery then it should've been down to 0 as well or something a little higher if they drove it around the dealership to re-calibrate the whole system. Because when I picked up my car that day, everything was the same. I left the car at the dealership with an average of 31.4 mpg and when I went back that day to pick my car up, it was still 31.4 mpg. It just sucks that they have to lie and all. Anyway, I've been wanting to update you guys after trying it myself. So yeah I don't have any issues since removing the terminal 2 weeks ago. Hopefully it will stay that way. What I've been noticing though is sometimes my apple carplay is acting up but nothing serious. Thanks for all your help guys.
 

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It did work out for me. I went to Vegas the next day after my last post here and me and my uncle did remove the negative battery terminal for like a minute or so. Drove it around for awhile and recalibrated everything. I did notice that all my presets are the same which is good. So I guess it's safe to say for ex hatchbacks it will never mess up your saved settings but there is one giveaway though that confirmed my hunch that the service guys did not remove my battery terminal. I noticed that after removing the battery, my MPG estimate went back to 0. Correct me guys if I'm wrong, but it just made me think that if they really did remove the battery then it should've been down to 0 as well or something a little higher if they drove it around the dealership to re-calibrate the whole system. Because when I picked up my car that day, everything was the same. I left the car at the dealership with an average of 31.4 mpg and when I went back that day to pick my car up, it was still 31.4 mpg. It just sucks that they have to lie and all. Anyway, I've been wanting to update you guys after trying it myself. So yeah I don't have any issues since removing the terminal 2 weeks ago. Hopefully it will stay that way. What I've been noticing though is sometimes my apple carplay is acting up but nothing serious. Thanks for all your help guys.
No problemo. If what you mean by CarPlay acting up is that your Infotainment Center keeps crashing and rebooting. Then try using an OEM Apple Wire and not aftermarket. I had the previously mentioned issue randomly all the time until my dealer gave me a real Apple Wire. They had me try it for a week and my Infotainment Center hasn't had an issue since. If your car is an early 2016 Civic then ask your dealer if it's been updated to the latest firmware.
 

mikeyd

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Wow this is super concerning since I ordered the Sport Touring..& the majority of issues are with the higher/highest trim level...
Same. My EXL is being built tomorrow. Im coming from a 2007 Saturn so the last thing I want is MORE electrical issues.
 

stbobc

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My 2017 Civic Hatchback EX-L Navi had this same problem. Smart Entry not being too smart - not responding to the hand touch on the door handles to unlock doors.

Manley Honda in Santa Rosa replaced BCM using an updated BCM. Programmed the new BCM to the immobilizer system and verified both keys started vehicle. I believe that BCM = Body Control Module.

Day one - working perfectly. Hoping it stays that way!

Thank you for this valuable thread.
 


Stegodon

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I think mine is "too smart" I was washing my car the other day with the keys in my pocket, and the water alone splashing thru the handles it kept unlocking itself
 

PGrif

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My 2017 Civic Hatchback EX-L Navi had this same problem. Smart Entry not being too smart - not responding to the hand touch on the door handles to unlock doors.

Manley Honda in Santa Rosa replaced BCM using an updated BCM. Programmed the new BCM to the immobilizer system and verified both keys started vehicle. I believe that BCM = Body Control Module.

Day one - working perfectly. Hoping it stays that way!

Thank you for this valuable thread.
L

Please keep us posted... I'll be knocking at their door if yours keeps working after a month.
 

HayaiKuruma

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So, as far as disconnecting the battery and draining the volatile memory of certain modules, does this erase or affect anything else? A good example would be the global open function using your key fob to open all the windows as you approach the car. Radio presets erased? Phone pairing messed up? Just thought I'd ask, these cars are getting so finicky.
 

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So, as far as disconnecting the battery and draining the volatile memory of certain modules, does this erase or affect anything else? A good example would be the global open function using your key fob to open all the windows as you approach the car. Radio presets erased? Phone pairing messed up? Just thought I'd ask, these cars are getting so finicky.
Nope, the only thing I had to deal with before telling everyone about this method is just having to do a re-initializing method. Keep in mind this is from disconnecting and reconnecting the battery within 30 seconds. The longest I've waited (which was the first time) was 15 minutes since I disconnected the battery and didn't reconnect it until I finished applying liquid wax to my car. After 15 minutes the GPS also had to find itself.
When the system goes through Re-Initializing the CPU checks everything in the car, just simply drive around for a few minutes at over 12MPH and all the lights/message screens will disappear. If it does not, then pull over, turn off the car and then start it back up, it should be gone then. If it has to look for GPS it could take as long as 20 minutes to find itself depending on how good a connection it can get at your current location.
 

slicksilver17

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Mine just started this issue over the weekend. I have had my 2017 EX-L w/nav Hatch for about a month now. The funny thing with my issue is that the proximity unlock doesn't work if I just walk up to the car, however, if I unlock it with the key fob, and then lock it, and then try the proximity unlock, it works. It is almost like the system doesn't wake up by using the door handle unlock, but once I trigger the button, it magically works when detecting my hand. Any ideas?
 


HayaiKuruma

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Mine just started this issue over the weekend. I have had my 2017 EX-L w/nav Hatch for about a month now. The funny thing with my issue is that the proximity unlock doesn't work if I just walk up to the car, however, if I unlock it with the key fob, and then lock it, and then try the proximity unlock, it works. It is almost like the system doesn't wake up by using the door handle unlock, but once I trigger the button, it magically works when detecting my hand. Any ideas?
Yes, as I understand it, that it what alot of people are reporting. Big questions are: is the battery reset a permanent fix? and is Honda aware of and doing something about this?
 
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MikeJXWT

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Yes, as I understand it, that it what alot of people are reporting. Big questions are: is the battery reset a permanent fix? and is Honda aware of and doing something about this?
Another user reported that their dealer had to go as far as changing a/some module(s) that work with the cars Locking System. So far, it seems that the battery reset method has a 50-50 chance of fixing the 'glitch'. Knock-on-wood, I haven't had any issues since I reset the system via Disconnected and Reconnecting the Battery.

Then again, my dealer did change out my Karr Alarm that came with the system with a replacement. Long story short, a while after doing the battery method I found that they disconnected my Karr Alarm and never put it back. Told them to either reimburse me for removing it or replace it, they did the later.
 

BadDistribution

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. . . . smart entry does not work like it should, got a 2017 civic hatchback EX. Perimeter lock works walking away no problem, beeps and all. All the functions on the key FOB work... However, when I approach the vehicle and put my hand on the handle to open the car it does not recognize my hand. However, if I use the lock button once approaching the car it does work.? It's been like this from day one. Several days at the dealership, replacing the key fobs didn't work, now they're going deeper trying to figure out what the problem is with the system using Honda tech support but no solution yet.

***Thanks everybody for their input. Disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds fixed the problem after all, and it's holding………….. hope everybody has been able to use this fix as well.
It may have something to do with Hatch EX sitting at the dealership, test-driven on and off, many drivers, styles of driving, erratic button pushing and touching everything on screen and car system settings hang eventually needing reboot.
I had this exact same issue - I took it to the dealership and they determined it was a faulty BCM (Body Control Module). They had to special-order the part and afterwards, it worked, with no problems!
 

slicksilver17

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I had this exact same issue - I took it to the dealership and they determined it was a faulty BCM (Body Control Module). They had to special-order the part and afterwards, it worked, with no problems!
Yeah I plan on taking it back to the dealer next week, I will reference the BCM as a possible issue.
 

itiskris

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I had this exact same issue - I took it to the dealership and they determined it was a faulty BCM (Body Control Module). They had to special-order the part and afterwards, it worked, with no problems!
I have two 2017 Hatchbacks...one has already had the BCM changed. Now BOTH are having problems with the "Smart" entry again. Any other ideas?
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