You will have to cut for large baskets or cast ones. My Focal 165V1s dropped right in. You just have to index them to clear the 2 stupid ears on the speaker opening.You'll have to cut either way. Just knock it out. No biggie.
DIY gets my vote every time - that's how I got my start in audio almost 30 years ago!Damn the JL audio 8inch sub I am looking at requires at least a suggested .875cuft. Gonna ask around the local shops and get an est on cost to build a box. Maybe I'll just have to build one myself.
Prob 8 yrs ago I ran the 8w7 in a ported box (never ran ported before) getting 600 from a Phoenix Gold 600ti. It was in an ext cab p/u. It hammered and sounded good doing it. If you give it enough power, it should sound great sealed.Thank you for all the info. The JL I am looking at is the 8W7AE-3 8inch sub. On their website it says that it's optimized to operate in a .875cu ft sealed box including the sub. Since my knowledge of subs is very limited I just went with what the company recommended.
Any input on this specific sub?
It has been done and it’s a good location. Here’s an idea for yaHi guys I'm new to the audio forums and with no experience. Has anyone ever thought of doing a sub install where the spare tire is? If I don't need a spare tire, would mounting the sub there be any good?
No personal experience other than lots of general JL experience, and I do own a 12W7. They make high quality stuff, and that 8" is notably more ludicrous than most subs. They have engineers that know their stuff. You can be assured there won't be any silly problems like a high moving mass to create a low Fs and a soft suspension that can't control the mass or any such ugliness. .875 isn't tiny for an 8, but note even subs "optimized" for smaller boxes will be subject to the same laws of physics... if there was one that was "optimized" for a 0.25" box it wouldn't play as low and wouldn't be as loud per watt.Thank you for all the info. The JL I am looking at is the 8W7AE-3 8inch sub. On their website it says that it's optimized to operate in a .875cu ft sealed box including the sub. Since my knowledge of subs is very limited I just went with what the company recommended.
Any input on this specific sub?
Stay tuned.Hi guys I'm new to the audio forums and with no experience. Has anyone ever thought of doing a sub install where the spare tire is? If I don't need a spare tire, would mounting the sub there be any good?
What do you think of this? Nice or over the top?I bought the sail panels from the EX and they required very little modification. Here's the EX sail:
Has anyone else called up the audio shop to see if theyre interested in selling/shipping these out of state? Looks like a decent stealthy box which is something many of us are interested in when upgrading their audio.Sure! They actually drilled a small hole somewhere on the inside for a mounting screw that is not visible when the sub is removed and the spare tire tools are put back in. I originally left out the name of the company because I wasn't sure what forum rules are. I'll post it for now but if it is against the rules please let me know, I'll delete the post and take it to PM.
Sun Valley Stereo
sunvalleystereo.com
(602) 957-3397
2809 E Thomas Rd
Phoenix, AZ 85016
Ryan is who helped me and got me setup with everything.
Interestingly, there was another 2017 Civic Hatch there that day getting a system installed. Though this guy had the Sport 6 Speed Manual. Ryan told me he had to travel to Colorado from Arizona to get it. I would have loved to get a Sport 6 speed but I wasn't willing to go the extra mile to get it. CVT isn't too bad though
How did you do the amp board. Single piece of plywood cut out or 3 pieces. And any pointers on where to run a 0 gauge and 4 gauge power wires? Btw putting in 2 skar ddx 10's in the hatchI have since installed the box a bit more permanently but here are some pics. I did MB Quart ZLine components, but after I got them I found out they were sold to Maxxsonics years ago. I am SUPER happy with how they sound for the price, thankfully.
I have a Skar 75x4 amp driving the components and a 600x1 driving the sub.
I built boards and carpeted them....the Skar Amps fit just fine but I had to trim the foam under the board (This is a Sport...other models have a different hatch setup due to not having the center exhaust).
I originally used my factory head unit with an AudioControl LCQ-1, but had some issues and gave up and put a Kenwood head unit in and ran RCAs. Super happy with it now.
3 separate pieces. I have a bolt coming through from the bottom at each end of the middle piece, with a wing nut on top to hold them together (and being together holds them in place).How did you do the amp board. Single piece of plywood cut out or 3 pieces. And any pointers on where to run a 0 gauge and 4 gauge power wires? Btw putting in 2 skar ddx 10's in the hatch
Thanks I upgraded the HU to a AVIC-8200NEX and front doors are going to be soundstream rc.6 and backs will be ppi P.65C2 powered by a ppi p900.4, and the ddx 10's ran off a masssive d8000. I picked up some 80mil sound deadener by noico and some foam speaker rings by soundskin audio(the only thing im waiting on coming in). Ill build a box 14x14x 40.5 tuned to 34hz to fit nicely in the hatch, but first I need to find the best way to get 0 gauge to the hatch.3 separate pieces. I have a bolt coming through from the bottom at each end of the middle piece, with a wing nut on top to hold them together (and being together holds them in place).
I ran 4 gauge through an existing hole just above the fuse panel to the left of the drivers foot. 0 likely wouldn't make it through there. I just came down the left side with the power cable...there's plenty of room at the bottom edge of the door sill under the carpet. Nice on the DDX10's. That's going to be insane! I love my Skar amps...if I had known how good their stuff was before trying it, I would have bought their sub.