2017 EX-T CVT Upgrade list help

Vampyrplanck

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So, I'm sure this has been posted a million times, but the majority of posts are also about Si's or MT in general so are not fully relevant. I'm slowly working on modifying my EX-T Sedan with the CVT, I got the obvious starting point of a KTuner(or Hondata) and I have a PRL Cobra CAI "Race" coming in this week. Where to next? And after that? Trying to make an ideal list with the ideal parts. I also saw the CVT in Thailand with a bolt on turbo pushing 279WHP with no issues, but is the Thai CVT different than the NA?

1. Downpipe?
Should this come before FMIC? Cost wise, it is clearly superior, but longevitity of the enginge? I have yet to read anything negative with regards to PRL products either, so would the PRL Downpipe be the BEST? Or is there a better option with more power?
2. FMIC
Above question? Obviously the power gains are far smaller than the Downpipe, but maintaining a lower overall temperature is huge for longevity. Again, absolute best FMIC?
3. Exhaust
Beyond the downpipe, possibly front pipe, and sound, is this really going to add much power wise? If so, what're the best options. So many choices on exhaust, I've read a million threads and everyone has different opinions, but anyone have hard data?
This is where I start to get fuzzy, or I slide away from "Engine/Exhaust/Transmission" choices.

Tires are obviously a huge factor, where do they fit into all of this though? I have the standard Firestones that come stock right now with about 30,000 miles already on them. Price wise, the Downpipe is the equivalency of two tires, so what is the best option?
Does a rear engine mount really make a difference?
What does the Flex Fuel Converter ACTUALLY DO?
When do you worry about Brakes/Suspension?

I like to organize, go a little OCD, and extra nerdy with this stuff. So I want to compile a list of the order of items I w



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gtman

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279 WHP on that Thai base CVT 1.5 sounds like a long term problem unless the stock internals have been upgraded. How much torque?

Why not just start small with a Ktuner and take it from there? If you really plan to push the 1.5 as hard as you say, trade it in on an Si. The CVT/base 1.5 certainly is great with moderate power gains but you can't push it too far
 

10GenPearlSi

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There are others that can do a better job of answering most of your questions. About the Flex Fuel question I think I can give a good answer. The Flex Fuel Converter is just a sensor. It reads the amount of alcohol in the fuel. It is wired to the cars ECU or computer so the tune can monitor the ethanol percentage. Ethanol burns slower so it is less prone to dangerous explosive detonation. That means that the octane rating is much higher. This means that the car can safely have more turbo boost and more ignition advance. Both can increase horsepower. By reading the percentage, the ECU can pull back ignition and boost if it reads that the fuel is normal premium gas and thereby protect the engine.
 
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Vampyrplanck

Vampyrplanck

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You’re probably right, but it would be next year before I could make the Si switch. What parts are interchangeable if simply planning that route long term?

279 WHP on that Thai base CVT 1.5 sounds like a long term problem unless the stock internals have been upgraded. How much torque?

Why not just start small with a Ktuner and take it from there? If you really plan to push the 1.5 as hard as you say, trade it in on an Si. The CVT/base 1.5 certainly is great with moderate power gains but you can't push it too far
 

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@Vampyrplanck Ive made a post on this before Hold on let me find it.... okay found it... also with this, your CVT taps out at between 230-250 FTxlbsTQ however that engine is a stout little guy, I built this list based on a couple of different things mainly that Honda has over engineered a lot of things such as the stock airbox and exhuast, they should be the last things you replace, if you are looking for performance and dollar/HP gained. The W1 Turbo from 27won and a custom dyno tune are probably 2 of the most important as it will give you a lot of top end HP and speed while also moving your power band over to the right increasing the longevity of your CVT, the custom Dyno tune is also important as they can help you increase your HP band while also capping your torque at a safe number. The cool thing about the CVT is that the torque that it uses is all instant and it will pull and pull and pull and pull untill you let off the throttle
I would highly suggest an intercooler and a tune as your first upgrades, you can use a drop in filter that will yield the same result unless you really just want some engine bay bling or a nice WOOSH sound. Tune, Clutch and intercooler. Then if youre looking for lbs for lbs i would go in this order, 27won/PRL Big turbo upgrade as it will move your powerband and take some strain off the tranny, then I would go Down-pipe and front pipe, as you will be losing airflow with those, then Exhuast, then CAI. The stock airbox and Exhuast on the Si's honestly are really good and no true reason to upgrade them except for sound or bling. So again in this order
1.Tune
2.Clutch (manual only)
3.Intercooler
4.BigTurboUpgrade (27won over PRL based on cost and driveability, PRL if you want to win on the drag strip)
5.Downpipe
6.Frontpipe
7.Exhuast
8.Intake
After these then you can do your shifter upgrades, guages, quality of life (springs, sways, bling etc)
I think most people would agree with me. Also the first 3 will improve quality of life there is no possible way the Intercooler upgrade will void ANYTHING, It literally is something honda wouldve done themselves and have, if it wouldnt raise the price so damn much.
Also too try to use the same service advisor and technician everytime, get in good with them most advisors and techs tune their own cars, and think bolt ons are cool ( I work for a dealership and my service manager green lit all my bolt ons and I had a tech install all of them) just keep your stock parts and your stock tune, and swap it back to stock if you blow it up but if you do everything in the order i have suggested and dont abuse it or Over tune it and drive with in the cars capabilities (Dont tune over X if your clutch can only hold Y.) and then wonder why your flywheel broke your crank or something stupid like that.

Happy tuning and remember Its cool to have a fast car Its not cool to blow it up on the highway, so tune responsibly.
 
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ThorSellsCars

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You’re probably right, but it would be next year before I could make the Si switch. What parts are interchangeable if simply planning that route long term?
most parts are a direct swap except for the exhuast
 
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Vampyrplanck

Vampyrplanck

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Is there any hard data on the bolt on turbos on these CVT other than the Europeans and Thai guys? I’ve read the threads and I understand the logic behind the torque changes actually helping the CVT, but who has actually tried it yet?

@Vampyrplanck Ive made a post on this before Hold on let me find it.... okay found it... also with this, your CVT taps out at between 230-250 FTxlbsTQ however that engine is a stout little guy, I built this list based on a couple of different things mainly that Honda has over engineered a lot of things such as the stock airbox and exhuast, they should be the last things you replace, if you are looking for performance and dollar/HP gained. The W1 Turbo from 27won and a custom dyno tune are probably 2 of the most important as it will give you a lot of top end HP and speed while also moving your power band over to the right increasing the longevity of your CVT, the custom Dyno tune is also important as they can help you increase your HP band while also capping your torque at a safe number. The cool thing about the CVT is that the torque that it uses is all instant and it will pull and pull and pull and pull untill you let off the throttle
 

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First of all, is this going to be your daily or track car? I do have a EX-T CVT as well and what I have do to it is as follow:

K-tuner stage 1
Catted PRL front and down pipe
27Won Intake
Mishimoto Intercooler with pipes
Invidia N1 Exhaust

I will be buying the Koyorad Radiator in a few weeks (Summer is Coming) and I asked PRL about the Flex Fuel and 27won about their turbo and they both told not to buy it since I wont be taking full advantage of them. At this point I'm done when it comes to performance since I'm limited to a CVT.
 

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First of all, is this going to be your daily or track car? I do have a EX-T CVT as well and what I have do to it is as follow:

K-tuner stage 1
Catted PRL front and down pipe
27Won Intake
Mishimoto Intercooler with pipes
Invidia N1 Exhaust

I will be buying the Koyorad Radiator in a few weeks (Summer is Coming) and I asked PRL about the Flex Fuel and 27won about their turbo and they both told not to buy it since I wont be taking full advantage of them. At this point I'm done when it comes to performance since I'm limited to a CVT.
I prefer the aFe power exhuast but american drone vs tuner rasp to each sound note their own, this guy is pretty correct on what hes saying, it pretty much taps out on bolt ons plus intercooler the only reason i suggested the turbo is because IF and thats a BIG IF you wanted more horsepower the Turbo would be the best way to go as it would help you move the power band, and move the torque over to take the strain off the Trans mission
 

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I prefer the aFe power exhuast but american drone vs tuner rasp to each sound note their own, this guy is pretty correct on what hes saying, it pretty much taps out on bolt ons plus intercooler the only reason i suggested the turbo is because IF and thats a BIG IF you wanted more horsepower the Turbo would be the best way to go as it would help you move the power band, and move the torque over to take the strain off the Trans mission

This is my aFe exhaust. Sound is decent
 

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I prefer the aFe power exhuast but american drone vs tuner rasp to each sound note their own, this guy is pretty correct on what hes saying, it pretty much taps out on bolt ons plus intercooler the only reason i suggested the turbo is because IF and thats a BIG IF you wanted more horsepower the Turbo would be the best way to go as it would help you move the power band, and move the torque over to take the strain off the Trans mission
How do you know the turbo is more horsepower on a CVT? More top end? I race mine in 'L' now at the dragstrip and it stays pegged at 6000-6100rpm. Where can I see where this turbo will make more hp at the CVT's peak rpm range than stock turbo?
 
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How do you know teh turbo is more horsepower on a CVT? More top end? I race min in 'L' now at the dragstrip and it stays pegged at 6000-6100rpm. Where can I see where this turbo will make more hp at the CVT's peak rpm range than stock turbo?
Bigger turbo = More Air, More Air = More fire, a really simplistic way to say bigger turbo gives more horsepower also while racing in L is good, L has a gas cut off or shorten, you need to Launch in L then at about 47-55MPH pop it forward into S, Lift off the Gas for a microsecond and slam back on it tricks the CVT into dropping low again but S has a better top end rage then L. Also from 27won themselves @[email protected]
"Showing a true drop-in comparison, we see an un-tuned power increase of +18wHP and wTQ carrying strong to redline.Following this, a tune optimized for the W1 Turbo nets a total of +42wHP.
Carrying power to redline was the #1 goal for the W1 turbo
without significantly effecting low end torque. With this new power curve, peak torque hits 500rpm later and horsepower carries to redline providing a total 500rpm extra engine RPM past the OE 6500rpm redline.
For stock block cars moving the peak torque higher in the RPM range helps reduce the chance of catastrophic engine failure due to excessive force on the connecting rods and pistons." "Showing a true drop-in comparison with E85 fuel, we see an un-tuned power increase of +52wHP and +2wTQ. Following this, a tune optimized for the W1 Turbo nets a total of +65wHP and +18wTQ. The L15 found in the CivicX loves boost and octane, which is why we saw a much larger increase in power with the addition of ethanol over 91 Octane gasoline."

You are limited by the torque spec on your CVT however It would not be unreasonable or impossible to hit the 300WHP, 225WtQ and be perfectly fine.
 
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Make sure you watch this, this is the best evidence-based information you need to know about the CVT:
 

gtman

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You are limited by the torque spec on your CVT however It would not be unreasonable or impossible to hit the 300WHP, 225WtQ and be perfectly fine.
As far as hitting those numbers, sure. As far as the CVT being perfectly fine (especially long term), I'm not so sure.
 

                           

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