2017 Civic Si Coupe console, footwell, HVAC lighting not working..

TonyTheTiger57

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I have a 2017 Civic Coupe Si with 50,000 miles on it. My footwell lighting, my console switches and my HVAC buttons are not lighting up properly.. I can barely see the faintest light when I turn on my headlight switch. The LED for where the cup holder is and where the USB port are doing the same thing. I checked the wiring on a visual and see no damage. I am kinda stumped on where to start first. I am assuming a broken wire since these cars are made so shitty. I mean the wire seems like 22-24 gauge wiring.

 

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TonyTheTiger57

TonyTheTiger57

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The doors, the window switches, the gauge cluster, it all lights up, but the buttons around my manual shifter, the little red light in the cup holder, the light that shines from under the radio, and the footwell lights don’t light up. When I turn on the headlight switch, you can see they barely light up at all.
 
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TonyTheTiger57

TonyTheTiger57

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Someone else did before I bought the car. I opened it up many other times for different things, different shift boot, shifter adjustments.
 


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don’t light up. When I turn on the headlight switch, you can see they barely light up at all.
Wait: do they, or don’t they, light up? I’m confused.
 
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TonyTheTiger57

TonyTheTiger57

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If you look super closely, when you flip on and off the switch, you can see this super tiny light difference. So they all try to come on.
 
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TonyTheTiger57

TonyTheTiger57

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Tearing into my issue. I do have power when I turn on the headlight switch, so I am assuming it is a ground issue somewhere. The Grey wire turns hot when the headlight switch is activated.

34FDB3CD-1608-4228-A769-A5DE273C4160.jpeg


EE1E3E40-DD2E-4CBF-956F-77FB6C7F5EEE.jpeg
 

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An intermittent ground would cause flashing, not dimness, I would think. If the lights are trying to turn on, that suggests a potentiometer issue. I wonder if you can compare voltage between the good-functioning lights and the poorly-functioning lights. If they’re all getting the same voltage, than the miniLED in the switch would be going bad. But if they’re getting different voltage, that might suggest a different issue.
 
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TonyTheTiger57

TonyTheTiger57

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The voltages are the same across each switch, fully lit or not.
 


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The voltages are the same across each switch, fully lit or not.
I guess what I mean is that, for each switch, there should be voltage on one wire only when the headlights are on, like you posted before. Yeah?

Is that voltage identical across all switches, those that have been illuminating normally and those that have been malfunctioning?
 

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Isn't illumination controlled by the black pin in the gauge cluster by turning it clockwise or counter clockwise? I know it controls the brightness of the headunit for sure but i'm wondering if someone accidently turned it down and that's why it seems dim.
 

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Isn't illumination controlled by the black pin in the gauge cluster by turning it clockwise or counter clockwise? I know it controls the brightness of the headunit for sure but i'm wondering if someone accidently turned it down and that's why it seems dim.
That’s what I was thinking. But, if only some of the lights controlled by that knob are dim, that might be a bigger issue.
 
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TonyTheTiger57

TonyTheTiger57

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Isn't illumination controlled by the black pin in the gauge cluster by turning it clockwise or counter clockwise? I know it controls the brightness of the headunit for sure but i'm wondering if someone accidently turned it down and that's why it seems dim.
I ckecked this way before doing all of this work. Plus, the other half of my interior lights wouldn't be working or be bright.
 
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TonyTheTiger57

TonyTheTiger57

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I am getting about 2.3V no matter the brightness, between the blue and grey wire

3ACBB934-9E6C-4CC8-B151-19E7D3AB0920.jpeg

 

 
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