200000 miles. Not as smooth as it once was, what to replace?

[Oddwayne]

I already bought the Honda coolant. Just need to figure out if I can flush it or just drain from lower radiator and refill. How likely are air pockets in the coolant circuit?

If you have a leak or removed a hose without bleeding the system, you have air pockets. If the system is fine and never been messed with, highly unlikely you have air pockets. Most dealers tbh are just going to drain the rad and fill back up. Some don’t wanna deal with draining the block or have the kind of equipment that adds and takes away coolant while the motor is running. If it were me and depending on how cheap I got the type 2 coolant for, I may do a drain and fill of the rad, bleed, drive around for a day or so and do a second drain and fill.

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[schmiddr2]

Yeah I'm glad I sold it. Couldn't agree more, piece of junk right from the factory.

Haha. Seriously, they sell on looks/clout, not engineering or manufacturing tolerances. Although I have seen one 300K mile Grand Cherokee V8. My test for how good is a vehicle and how reasonable it is to work on - how many do you see on the road from the era. I had a 2000 Dodge Intrepid, and after about 2010 I maybe see one a month. on the road.

 

[schmiddr2]

If you have a leak or removed a hose without bleeding the system, you have air pockets. If the system is fine and never been messed with, highly unlikely you have air pockets. Most dealers tbh are just going to drain the rad and fill back up. Some don’t wanna deal with draining the block or have the kind of equipment that adds and takes away coolant while the motor is running. If it were me and depending on how cheap I got the type 2 coolant for, I may do a drain and fill of the rad, bleed, drive around for a day or so and do a second drain and fill.

That's kind of what I was thinking. Drain and fill, the standard without an expensive device.

I wasn't saying I think there is air in system, just that I don't know how likely it is on these cars after the flush or drain/fill. Since the coolant has to go to the turbo as well, I really have no idea how likely it is.

 

[xcoreflyup]

Where are all the bushings? Near the wheels correct? Any farther under the car or obscured?

They are rubber inserts located at every suspension joints. You will see them once you take the wheel off. The black circular thing are the bushings.

The front control arm bushing arent pressed in. Looking at the design, you may as well get the whole front control arm kits which includes the bushings. it is only $10 more

 

[schmiddr2]

They are rubber inserts located at every suspension joints. You will see them once you take the wheel off. The black circular thing are the bushings.


The front control arm bushing arent pressed in. Looking at the design, you may as well get the whole front control arm kits which includes the bushings. it is only $10 more.

So what should I replace out of these items?

 

[xcoreflyup]

Are the control arm bushings pressed in, or does it require replacing the whole arm to get a a new bushing? And with sway bars you just mean the end links right?

So what should I replace out of these items?

#23 is the main ball joint and #9 is the main control arm bushing.

 

[schmiddr2]

A few days ago I bought both filters for the CVT and necessary gaskets and O-rings. I figure it's about time.

I have been considering adjusting the valve/cam gaps. Not too difficult I think, I did it on a B18 a long time ago. Good idea?

Also, can not changing the brake fluid cause brake shake?

 

[Troy Jollimore]

Only under repeated hard braking, and then the brakes would just go soft, rather than shake. If you’re confident enough to try, I’d get the relevant service manual pages from somewhere and give the valve adjustment a try. They’re probably not out much, if at all.

 

[Civics4Ever]

A few days ago I bought both filters for the CVT and necessary gaskets and O-rings. I figure it's about time.

I have been considering adjusting the valve/cam gaps. Not too difficult I think, I did it on a B18 a long time ago. Good idea?

Also, can not changing the brake fluid cause brake shake?

What filters are there for the CVT?

 

[YattleMe]

I would check the engine mounts to see if they need replacing. Or bring your car to a indy and see what they find needs replacing

 

[schmiddr2]

What filters are there for the CVT?

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/how-to-change-transmission-oil-on-1-5t-cvt.31029/page-4

 

[schmiddr2]

I would check the engine mounts to see if they need replacing. Or bring your car to a indy and see what they find needs replacing

I am trying not to use any mechanic help. But I will check engine mounts. What are the signs of bad mounts?

 

[Design]

Also, can not changing the brake fluid cause brake shake?

A squishy pedal over time, but not really brake shake, in my experience. Vibes from the pedal could be a contact issue with the pad and rotor (i.e. warped rotor). Vibes from the steering wheel or seat might also indicate worn bushings, irregular tire wear, or a combination. Does it get worse when you brake harder?

In any case, not something to try and solve by throwing parts at the problem. Worth a diagnosis IMHO.

 

[schmiddr2]

A squishy pedal over time, but not really brake shake, in my experience. Vibes from the pedal could be a contact issue with the pad and rotor (i.e. warped rotor). Vibes from the steering wheel or seat might also indicate worn bushings, irregular tire wear, or a combination. Does it get worse when you brake harder?

In any case, not something to try and solve by throwing parts at the problem. Worth a diagnosis IMHO.

Steering wheel vibes. Not really from pedal I don't think. Vibrations gets stronger as brake harder.

The purpose of throwing parts at the car (not specifically the problem), is that at 200K there are probably some things not as good as they once where. So I figure if the price is not crazy expensive for the parts, I can just change them and it be part of a timely replacement of wear parts, like struts. Plus I like having new parts on my car and like doing things myself.

 

[schmiddr2]

So I never really had brake pulsing before in any car, but I think that is what I have happening more than shake. It's like grab slip grab while braking. Any ideas? I read that it could be related to new brakes seating on new calipers and not making good contact, but I don't know.

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