2+ lug nuts broke in half!? Help!?

[NonyaBisness]

Looking at the pics, the reason the lug nuts sheared is because your wheels are too thick for the studs. Look how much thread is left on the sheared lugs in your hand. Those threads are not for show, they are meant to be in contact with the studs.
Also you should always hand torque lug nuts- kinda the reason lug nuts have a torque spec. You can impact on/off (I wouldn't but your choice), but should always be set well below final torque spec & then hand torqued to final ft/lb.

technically you shouldn't but it depends on your experience level and the knowledge of how your impact performs, I've got mine down to a T, i've got a Rigid 18volt Impact and that guy (as long as you don't just sit there pointless hitting it tightens the lugs to where you are a quarter to a half turn from the level I torque lugs to by hand, never had a lug shear (well since I started doing it this way, years ago when using the wrong type of lug nut for the wheels I was running, Conical Lugs on a Ball Seat wheel, I did, but that was a decade before I got this impact) or come off and the Rigid is still powerful enough to zap the lug nuts off when removing the wheel even after the final hand torque.

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[JayDee]

technically you shouldn't but it depends on your experience level and the knowledge of how your impact performs, I've got mine down to a T, i've got a Rigid 18volt Impact and that guy (as long as you don't just sit there pointless hitting it tightens the lugs to where you are a quarter to a half turn from the level I torque lugs to by hand, never had a lug shear (well since I started doing it this way, years ago when using the wrong type of lug nut for the wheels I was running, Conical Lugs on a Ball Seat wheel, I did, but that was a decade before I got this impact) or come off and the Rigid is still powerful enough to zap the lug nuts off when removing the wheel even after the final hand torque.

i used to work at a shop and have done plenty cars with my impact. It was the shops fault, they actually fixed it for free yesterday. They literally loosened them all and then tightened them at a lower impact level, i tried removing them with my impact and it was fine then. Here’s some pics:
What they did was take off the wheel with the rotor, by removing the 4 hub screws from the back. Had to disconnect the brakes and brake lines/ abs line. They then grinded the stud head from the back and then it just popped out. That was to protect the rim instead of drilling through the stud from the front or trying to carefully only drill the nut.. very pleased with how it turned out...! Definitely a1 service

 

[jlamb30]

technically you shouldn't but it depends on your experience level and the knowledge of how your impact performs, I've got mine down to a T, i've got a Rigid 18volt Impact and that guy (as long as you don't just sit there pointless hitting it tightens the lugs to where you are a quarter to a half turn from the level I torque lugs to by hand, never had a lug shear (well since I started doing it this way, years ago when using the wrong type of lug nut for the wheels I was running, Conical Lugs on a Ball Seat wheel, I did, but that was a decade before I got this impact) or come off and the Rigid is still powerful enough to zap the lug nuts off when removing the wheel even after the final hand torque.

Same with my One+ 18V impact... it tightens to about a 1/8 turn of my torque wrench.

 

[julianzh]

If that shop used a toque wrench, you wouldn’t have broken nuts now.

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