2.0L CVT Transmission Fluid Change

OilChange123

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I'll be doing a transmission fluid change for me 2.0L CVT LX next week and just wanted to clarify a few things before getting started.

Question 1: Are there specific panel clips that hold in the front engine bay panel?

Accessing the fill hole requires removing the air box. To remove the air box I need to remove a plastic trim piece in the engine bay that's held on by some plastic retainers/clips. I know these break all the time while removing so I want to order some in advance so I have some extras. The clips I'm referring to are circled below:

clips.jpg


I did some searching and found this thread: shorturl.at/gnotN but I don't know if those will fit since they are from an Si coupe.


I was hoping to get this: shorturl.at/fqzIZ as it comes with trim removal tools for the same price. Would these fit if you could take a quick glance?

Question 2: Can I "drive" the car with the airbox still removed?

I'll be using ramps to get the car in the air rather than a jack since the center jack point is so far underneath the car. But, to check the fluid level accurately using the check hole, I need to have the car on level ground which would mean turning it on and driving it off the ramps. Would this be safe to do with the air box removed or should I put it all back together and then drive it off the ramps?

Thanks for the help





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V3N0M_VZL4

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check this post LINK question 1 yes and also you need remove some bolts, question 2 yes but for a short period of time just to test, and avoid rural areas or roads with dust and debris.
 

DRUSA

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1.) You do not need to remove any of those clips to access the fill plug. I usually just un-hinge the upper part of the air filter box, as if you were replacing the filter, and flip it up out of the way to access the fill plug with some long needle nose pliers or grab someone with small hands to get in there. Remove the lower splash shield to get access to the 3/8" drive drain plug, drain from the bottom, fill from the top using a funnel. It should take about 3.5qts on a drain and fill.

2.)I would not drive the car with the airbox removed, the car really doesn't like the MAF sensor on the intake box to be disconnected or flow tampered with in any way. Check engine lights will result. Drive the car onto the ramps, then remove, do service, reinstall parts, drive off ramps.
 
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OilChange123

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1.) You do not need to remove any of those clips to access the fill plug. I usually just un-hinge the upper part of the air filter box, as if you were replacing the filter, and flip it up out of the way to access the fill plug with some long needle nose pliers or grab someone with small hands to get in there. Remove the lower splash shield to get access to the 3/8" drive drain plug, drain from the bottom, fill from the top using a funnel. It should take about 3.5qts on a drain and fill.

2.)I would not drive the car with the airbox removed, the car really doesn't like the MAF sensor on the intake box to be disconnected or flow tampered with in any way. Check engine lights will result. Drive the car onto the ramps, then remove, do service, reinstall parts, drive off ramps.
Now that you mention it, the drain plug is just a 3/8 inch "indent". Is there a special type of socket that I need or will my socket wrench and torque wrench just fit right in without any socket?

And by drive the car I mean to just lower it off the ramps. Is that fine or best to play it safe and put it all back together before driving it off the ramps?
 
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OilChange123

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check this post LINK question 1 yes and also you need remove some bolts, question 2 yes but for a short period of time just to test, and avoid rural areas or roads with dust and debris.
That link is for the 1.5t, but my car is the 2.0
 

Dynamarkets

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You don't need to remove the airbox. Just buy a long neck funnel that will reach down to the cvt fill hole. I've done it, it works. Also, put the exact amount of volume of cvt fluid in the cvt tranny and you'll be right as rain. No need to check the fluid level if you have poured the exact amount in. Work smart, not hard.
 
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OilChange123

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You don't need to remove the airbox. Just buy a long neck funnel that will reach down to the cvt fill hole. I've done it, it works. Also, put the exact amount of volume of cvt fluid in the cvt tranny and you'll be right as rain. No need to check the fluid level if you have poured the exact amount in. Work smart, not hard.
Edit: You've done it on the 2.0 because in your picture you have the 1.5t? Just wanna make sure because I've seen people confusing the 2.0 and 1.5t before when talking transmission fluid change

It seems easier to just remove the airbox, at least in the video that I watched. I'll pop the hood and take a look to see if I can find the fill hole, but from my understanding, it's located directly under the airbox so bending a funnel that way doesn't sound fun.

On a side note if you can link me to the funnel you used on Amazon, I'd appreciate that
 
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OilChange123

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I haven't done mine yet but I'll do it soon, I won't remove anything at the top, just the engine under cover and I'll use one of those funnel.

funnel.png


CVT.JPG


CVT-1.JPG


CVT-2.JPG


CVT-3.JPG
Can you link me to that funnel/set up? I will look into this method.
 

BrandonSmith

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I just did this last week on my 2016 EX 2.0L

1) Don't remove that top panel. You do not need to remove any panels to get the airbox off. The piece that connects the airbox to that top panel can be removed from the airbox - it's a flap, just peel the edges of the flap off the airbox inlet. The three bolts that hold the airbox down are easy to get to. The biggest pain is the rubber grommet that holds the left side of the airbox to the bumper... Use a pry tool under the rubber grommet and pop the whole rubber grommet off the pin. I would still remove the airbox because it makes the whole job easier without getting pissed at reaching into tight spots and dropping this or that (don't shortcut the job).

2) Do not run the vehicle without the airbox. After you've filled the trans for the first step, just loosely reinstall the airbox without bolting it back down. Let is heat up per instructions, run it through the gears, and shut it down, and remove the box. Pretty simple.

Please for the love of God use the check bolt to set the fluid level. And speaking of level, make sure the vehicle is on level ground when you drain, when you fill, and when you refill! Pour the 3 Qts in and when you start the 4th Qt pour SLOWLY. It will sneak up on you and pour all over the place. I put 3 qt in and when I just started the 4th qt it began to pour out of the check hole. I heated up per instructions and poured in very slowly until it just began to seep out of the check hole.

So:
  1. Remove airbox (3 bolts, rubber grommet, remove rubber flap around inlet grille)
  2. remove fill plug (this helps prevent gulping during draining)
  3. jack up front of vehicle and place on jack stands (or use ramps)
  4. remove underpanel
  5. remove drain bolt with socket wrench (no socket)
  6. lift rear of vehicle up so the car is level (or lower the front down on level ground)
  7. let it drain for more than 5 minutes (it will drain for a long time if you let it, best to remove as much fluid as possible)
  8. get back under the car and put the drain plug back in with NEW washer (and torque to spec)
  9. remove the check bolt
  10. get the car level again (preferably with the car on level ground because you'll be starting the car)
  11. fill up with 3 qts then slowly add the 4th qt a splash at a time (you won't need much, maybe 2 oz at most so be careful!)
  12. once there is a little dribble out of the check hole put the bolt back in (hand tight is fine)
  13. put the fill plug back in
  14. Set the airbox back in place but don't bolt down yet (clamp the two pieces back together though)
  15. start the car and let it get up to temp (about 10 minutes of idling for me to get the fan to kick on twice - having the hood closed helps the temp rise faster)
  16. Once the fan has kicked on twice you'll run through every gear on the shifter from P to L and then back up every gear from L to P (make sure to stay in each gear AT LEAST 3 seconds, I did 5 seconds)
  17. Shut the car off and remove the airbox, check bolt, and fill plug
  18. Fill a few splashes at a time until there is a dribble coming out of the check hole
  19. put the check bolt back in and torque to spec
  20. put the fill plug back in
  21. Get back under the car and wipe up any fluid from the trans, put the cover back on
  22. reinstall the airbox
  23. thank God the job is done
 
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OilChange123

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I just did this last week on my 2016 EX 2.0L

1) Don't remove that top panel. You do not need to remove any panels to get the airbox off. The piece that connects the airbox to that top panel can be removed from the airbox - it's a flap, just peel the edges of the flap off the airbox inlet. The three bolts that hold the airbox down are easy to get to. The biggest pain is the rubber grommet that holds the left side of the airbox to the bumper... Use a pry tool under the rubber grommet and pop the whole rubber grommet off the pin. I would still remove the airbox because it makes the whole job easier without getting pissed at reaching into tight spots and dropping this or that (don't shortcut the job).

2) Do not run the vehicle without the airbox. After you've filled the trans for the first step, just loosely reinstall the airbox without bolting it back down. Let is heat up per instructions, run it through the gears, and shut it down, and remove the box. Pretty simple.

Please for the love of God use the check bolt to set the fluid level. And speaking of level, make sure the vehicle is on level ground when you drain, when you fill, and when you refill! Pour the 3 Qts in and when you start the 4th Qt pour SLOWLY. It will sneak up on you and pour all over the place. I put 3 qt in and when I just started the 4th qt it began to pour out of the check hole. I heated up per instructions and poured in very slowly until it just began to seep out of the check hole.

So:
  1. Remove airbox (3 bolts, rubber grommet, remove rubber flap around inlet grille)
  2. remove fill plug (this helps prevent gulping during draining)
  3. jack up front of vehicle and place on jack stands (or use ramps)
  4. remove underpanel
  5. remove drain bolt with socket wrench (no socket)
  6. lift rear of vehicle up so the car is level (or lower the front down on level ground)
  7. let it drain for more than 5 minutes (it will drain for a long time if you let it, best to remove as much fluid as possible)
  8. get back under the car and put the drain plug back in with NEW washer (and torque to spec)
  9. remove the check bolt
  10. get the car level again (preferably with the car on level ground because you'll be starting the car)
  11. fill up with 3 qts then slowly add the 4th qt a splash at a time (you won't need much, maybe 2 oz at most so be careful!)
  12. once there is a little dribble out of the check hole put the bolt back in (hand tight is fine)
  13. put the fill plug back in
  14. Set the airbox back in place but don't bolt down yet (clamp the two pieces back together though)
  15. start the car and let it get up to temp (about 10 minutes of idling for me to get the fan to kick on twice - having the hood closed helps the temp rise faster)
  16. Once the fan has kicked on twice you'll run through every gear on the shifter from P to L and then back up every gear from L to P (make sure to stay in each gear AT LEAST 3 seconds, I did 5 seconds)
  17. Shut the car off and remove the airbox, check bolt, and fill plug
  18. Fill a few splashes at a time until there is a dribble coming out of the check hole
  19. put the check bolt back in and torque to spec
  20. put the fill plug back in
  21. Get back under the car and wipe up any fluid from the trans, put the cover back on
  22. reinstall the airbox
  23. thank God the job is done
Thanks for the detailed write up. So for the airbox you can just peel that thing back like that? I had no clue. That would probably be the easiest way of going about it. Once I get around to it, I'll post an update.

Thanks everyone for the help
 

BrandonSmith

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...So for the airbox you can just peel that thing back like that? I had no clue. That would probably be the easiest way of going about it. ...
Yep. The part I outlined in red just peels off and folds back over the upper bumper.
1605064393995.png
 
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