19’ SGP Build… audio, performance, just making my wife upset in general.

[AirCaveman]

So I’ve never done a build journal before so please excuse any issues this has. Kinda wanna document what I’m doing, and if anyone can learn anything then win win. Updates and pictures to come.

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[AirCaveman]

Exterior:
JDM “style” fog light tint
Rally armor mud flaps
TypeRLED brakes, turn, reverse LEDs
Mugen window visors
PRO Design fog light covers
Mugen garnish
TE37SL 18” Blast Bronze
Spoon mirrors
EDM power folding mirrors

 

[AirCaveman]

Interior:
Throtl Version Lab 2.0 (Modified with acuity boot retainer)
Overland Designs upper console trim
Overland Designs gauge visor trim
Joying 10.1 Android Head Unit
LCD Climate Control
TypeRLED map, cabin, trunk LEDs
Audiocontrol D-6.1200 Amp
NVX VSP65KIT Speakers
Kicker 48CWRT82
Acuity throttle pedal spacer
Acuity Stage 3 shifter
Spoon mirror

 

[AirCaveman]

Performance:
PRL street intake
PRL inlet pipe
Hondata flashpro
255/35/20 PS4AS <- Now winter tires
265/35/18 Continental Extreme Contact O2 <- Sunmers
PRL Intercooler
PRL Boost tubes
Phearable stage 2 OTS tune
Perrin rear motor mount insert
Acuity reverse flow radiator hoses

 

[AirCaveman]

Joying Android headunit
So I can to the FK8 from a ‘15 Sonata 2.0 Sport Limited. The car is great, tons of bells and whistles. After dealing with issues with the engine it was time to get a new toy.
The factory headunit as we all know is lacking. Kinda sad that Honda decided to throw in an old outdated unit in this thing, but I understand their priorities were elsewhere. That however doesn’t mean we have to accept keeping the old one. After reading about others jumping on these units I figured it would be worth looking into it. Ended up going with the 10.1 highest resolution model. It had some issues at first. I screwed up the install and connected the climate control to the HU. For those who don’t know, that blows out the lighting in the gauge control module. DON’T DO IT. The main issue it had was the sound and canbus functions only worked when in reverse gear. Worked back and forth with joying tech support (which was pretty good considering the language barrier and time difference). They ended up sending a new harness which canbus functions worked but didn’t have reverse camera functions. I ended up pulling the new canbus decoder and using it in the old harness and everything works great.

All in all it took about a month to get it all straight. I don’t really care for the UI of this unit. Their new ones look much better. However, wireless carplay is great and I use it exclusively so you never see the factory UI anyway. Some have talked about a whine or squeal when the unit isn’t playing music. The finding show if the brightness is turned below 70% there isn’t any noise. I agree that is the case. It’s been about a week now and no issues since. We shall see how long this unit lasts.

On a side note, the Hondata app is great on this thing. Connects super fast on startup. 12 gauges on 1 screen.

 

[AirCaveman]

LCD Climate Control
So with changing to the android headunit I wasn’t happy with how the climate controls were handled. The scaling of the buttons on the larger screen looked odd. It was much quicker than the old stock unit , but visually it was gross. I’d seen posts about using the climate control from lower trims or other Hondas with the LCD. $35 on eBay and the parts where in. The black is flat on the unit so I decided to wrap it in gloss black. Disassembly is pretty straight forward. Pull the face knobs off with a little pressure. There are some screws on the back and the face comes off. Couple of tabs on the silver parts and it all comes apart. Wrap is pretty flat, but there are a few tough parts. Took a couple tries to really get it smooth.
I turned off all the climate related menus in the HU. Yes you lose the dual climate control, but honestly I don’t care for that. Keep the whole car feeling comfortable (the wife can deal… ! )

 

[AirCaveman]

Audiocontrol D-6.1200 Amp
Started the day running the 14 AWG speaker wires. I am reusing the factory speakers for time being. They will be getting replaced with JL C2s all around. I did just solder the wire directly to the speaker for time being. Trying to keep it a little reversible to stock. Honestly I don’t know why I’m spending the extra time to do that, it’ll probably never be stock ever again.

Honda sure did think thing through with these cars. Running the wires through the doors are a cakewalk. You can disconnect the door harness and pull the boot completely out which makes it really straight and easy to pass the 14 AWG. I did run two line to the front for now. The amp is 6 channel and the replacement speakers will be component, but for the time being I will only running the front stage with the sub. Use the built in DSP to active cross the tweets for now.

As for the rears, I did run the wires and they are even easier for now. Don’t have to remove the liners, don’t even have to open the door. You can pull the boots and run wires from the front door. These line will remain inactive until the components show up then it’ll be the normal pull the liners and replace the factory speakers

All the lines are now run and waiting for the UPS guy…
The factory amp and antenna tuner has been removed. It’s all aftermarket from her on!!

7:45 update. It’s all installed. I tried the pen method to get the power wire in, but with 4 AWG there is no using that grommet. That 4 AWG pretty much fills the whole hole.

overall the power wiring is clean. I have the side trim so it sits under that and is all hidden.
Had to kinda wing it on the amp mounting. Originally thought under the passenger seat. It would fit, but I have a 4 year old that sits behind it and makes a mess everywhere so not smart. Plus I’d have to ditch the rear floor mat, or cut it didn't wanna do that. Next thought in the spare wheel area. It’s 1200 watts so that didn’t seem smart with little to no airflow. So it’s mounted on the back of the seat. I flattened the EQ on the head unit and turned off all the fake surround stuff. Using the DSP software I flattened out the curve with pink noise, and honestly the output was pretty flat to begin with. Once I get the JL speakers I plan on using a mic to RTA then car correctly.

Only drawback now is I was hoping to split channels 5 and 6 and feed the center channel to one and the sub to the other. Can’t do that sooo….. gonna have to add a mono amp to power the sub. That will free channel 5-6 to push the center speaker. I want that speaker back!!!
so the question now is do I go LC-1.800 or ACM-1.300. 300 watts is plenty, but why not 800?!

 

[ebatr24]

How do you go about resetting your maintenance notifications and recalibrating the TPMS sensors should you get a light on the dash now?

 

[AirCaveman]

How do you go about resetting your maintenance notifications and recalibrating the TPMS sensors should you get a light on the dash now?

There is a car app that controls the canbus decoder. It has all the setting that the factory headunit has minus rev match. You can do all the lighting, lock/unlock, maintenance, and tpms stuff.

 

[AirCaveman]

NVX VSP65KIT
So decided to go with these speakers for the doors. They are extremely reasonable on the price considering I had been looking at JL C2's. On an afternoon I swung by Car Toys and talked with the guys there and they played all the bangers in their show room trying to get me to buy stuff and I realized that once you get some really clean sources and a good install "you can make some cheap speakers sound almost as good as the expensive ones" (Car Toys install guy...). So that became my challenge and really they sound good.
Now I'm no pro so I'd say the install is a decent one not a "good" install. I did get some closed cell foam

and lined all the doors. Also used some silicone speaker baffles.

The baffles don't go all the way to the skin of the door, but the egg crate foam is nice and the outer part of the baffle seals up against the grill so it's clean. When putting the tweeters in the plastic needed to be clearanced a little so there is no going back to stock,

and I kinda gave up on that idea too. I was cutting harnesses to reduce possible vibrations and to reduce weight (because racecar!!!).

The crossovers can tone the tweeters down by 3 decibels, but after running the iPhone RTA I've got a nice flat signal coming out of all four corners and it sounds real crisp. I don't play music too too loud, and when the wife and kid is with me I turn it WAY down. Next is the sub. It's coming in a few days. Currently it's running on a single channel from the amp and putting WAY too much power through it. It squeaks pretty bad when the bass is turned up. So a Kicker sub is coming and I'll be able to tune it up and run it bridged at 4 ohms so that will be nice. Take it easy everyone!

 

[AirCaveman]

Kicker 48CWRT82
Last piece is in. It’s a dual 2 ohm coils. I put them in series for 4 ohms to match the impedance of all other channels. The sub is nice. Real slim and requires 0.3-0.5 cubic feet of space which is good for the 0.39 of the factory box. I sealed up the holes pretty well, and used a trick the soundman showed on YouTube. Placing two bolts through the plastic makes for an easy way to remove the connections.

The sub mount is a little smaller than the factory so the holes don’t line up and needs a little adjustment. The sub also doesn’t ship with hardware and the factory hardware doesn’t fit so you need some new ones. I put some matting down to decouple the sub from the enclosure. It all sounds good and pounds pretty hard.

need to actually put some terminals on the outside wires.

 

[AirCaveman]

Fog Light Covers
Been a slow couple weeks. Car audio has been great, no issues what so ever. Decided to get the PRO design fog light covers. I had butchered up the factory covers placing the license plate frame how I liked it. So it was time to replace them. These look great, and no need to cut anything. Well worth the price.

Feel like it needs a gloss lower grill to match now. Always something with this car!!!

 

[AirCaveman]

Long time no update. Couple things…..
Put Perrin rear motor mount inserts in. The install was actually not bad at all. Was expecting to wrestle it in but with some wiggles and a little elbow grease it went right in. Feels good, the wheel hope is gone. The vibrations are more noticeable, but whatever it’s supposed to shake a little to be fun.

Did make a change to the head unit. With the summer coming I thought maybe it could be moved to unblock the vents more, and that is true. There are some adjustment screws to the main unit that allow it to slide out a little more. Adjusting the screen down does block the control knobs just a bit, but it doesn’t look bad and the vents are clear now! Win win!

The photo angle is bad. The LCD of the climate control isn’t blocked at all, just a little bit of the top of the knob.

 

[AirCaveman]

Been a while since I updated. Had some fuel issues… that recall for the pump, and Honda said my VIN didnt qualify. So replaced it with a DW300 and it was fine, until the double stack O-Ring thing they want you to do messed up. After a bunch of time and effort trying to fix it, just replaced with a factory pump assembly and no issues. Did dump like 6 gallons at the Costco pump… so that was fun.

As far as mods continuing. Finally pulled the trigger on Stage 3 from acuity. Amazing shifter so crisp. And had to get some bling cause why not?!

 

[AirCaveman]

TE BAND WAGON!!!
Alrighty boys I’ve joined the club. Yes they are a dime a dozen now… but damn they look good and with Black Friday deals the wife fully “caved”. Nah, she supports my addition a little. She’s the healthy balance. ANYWAY! Stems are loaded, stickers are on (Hyper Yellow is kinda the accent theme now, so didn’t want red), and waiting on rubber. With the rain and winter in full swing in the PNW I’m going to hold out until March before they get mounted. It will be awful to wait, but don’t wanna wreck them. Gonna get some ceramic on the faces in the meantime.
Happy holidays y’all!!!!

OH and Rays Formula Nut-II. They look solid and a perfect lug nut for these.

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