18x9.5 +60... will they fit?

[Redraider]

I went with www.bcforged-na.com because you can customize every aspect of the wheel (face, offset, size, color, ect) and they cost a little less than Volks. Manufacturing and delivery was 6 weeks.

https://www.bcforged-na.com/project/davids-fk8-honda-civic-type-r-19x10-0-rz05/

Here are a few pics of the wheels and one comparing stock to BC Forged

BlinkerBeat, after you found the rub, did you purchase the new wheels with the 58mm offset or is that your recommendation based upon how much rub you experienced?

Those wheels look amazing! I like the idea of them manufacturing to custom!

Thanks for the input, it was really valuable.

 

[BlinkerBeat]

I put a 2mm spacer in the front and it's been perfect. Their customer service was excellent too.

 

[Glowzzy]

I'm waiting for my tires to wear down, but I'm looking at these wheels. Forgestar CF5 wheels 18 x 9 56.25 offset. they also have a 18 x 9.5 with 62.75 offset. These should fit. They seem to have the correct offset. Best of both worlds. Correct offset and more side wall for a daily driver.

I used Forgestar F14 wheels on my previous car, a Nissan 350z. I had custom offsets and the wheels took 3 months to get to me, but they were worth it. I am actually looking into the same CF5 wheels for the Type R. The only thing I don't know about is the spoke clearance to the calipers. Would you be able to take a front wheel off and a rear wheel off an do some measurements for us? If you look at the attachment, I would need A, B, C, and D for both front and rear.

 

[Glowzzy]

I have BC Forged custom wheels. 18x9.5 +60 with 275/35/18 PS4s on stock suspension. They fit perfectly in the rear. In the front they rubbed the strut/knuckle assembly. It just scrapped the paint on wheel at full lock (1mm). BC Forged said they had sold 3 other set with those specs and didn't have any issues. That said, they told me they would not make that spec any more because of my issue. I would recommend 18x9.5 +58.

Awesome info! I compared your recommendation to the setup I am now planning on and my setup would actually clear the strut by an additional 1.4mm over a 18x9.5 +58 offset, so I should be good. BC Forged wheels are too nice for my budget so I am working with Forgestar. I have had custom forgestar wheels in the past, and they are made to order, you can choose the wheel size, offset and bolt pattern just like BC forged... and they take 6 to 10 weeks to be delivered. They are also light, and flow forged, and cost about $1600-$1700 a set. (almost half of what BC forged charges).

 

[Glowzzy]

Ok, I got the car on the lift and measured the closest clearances at right and left extremes.

The tightest clearance is between the tire and the strut. Its is 5/8". I put a tape measure up there so to take a pic, but I measured with with spacers that stacked to 5/8". All other clearances are higher.
I measured the outside width of the mounted tire at the widest and it is exactly 10". I also measured the overhang of the tire from the wheel and it is 1/4" per side. So in the pic, the wheel is 7/8" from the strut. So if my math is right and you keep a 60mm offsets with 9.5" wheels, your wheel to strut clearance would be 3/8". So your tire selection would be critical to make sure you have enough clearance to the strut. One other thing to consider, the strut is angled toward the center of the wheel, so if you drop wheel diameter your clearance would be even closer than 3/8". I looked closely at it and it looks to be about 10 degrees. Assuming it is 10 degrees moving to an 19"x9.5"x60mm offset, the wheel to strut clearance would be 9/32", a little over 1/4". Moving to an 18"x9.5"x60mm offset, the wheel to strut clearance would be a little over 3/16".

If someone put 18x9.5" with a 60mm offset, that would be extremely close. I think that maybe the reason why the 45mm offsets are used to push the rim away from strut as you reduce the diameter. Me personally, I am not sure I'd feel comfortable running 18x9.5 60mm offset based upon what I see. Let me know what y'all think.

Awesome! Now since you've posted this I have also spoken to a few guys running extreme setups with 295's and there's also a guy in this thread who has given great info as well running 295's. I have shifted my thinking based on their input as well as your measurements, and now I think I'm going to go for an 18x10 +50 square setup. Now I just need to know the spoke-to-caliper clearance for both front and rear. Measurements A, B, C, and D should be enough to figure it out, I've been emailing the manufacturer to find out if the calipers will clear the spokes. Let me know if you have time to measure these also and I will send in to the manufacturer to find out (it is not for Weds wheels, but this is a Weds work sheet that I found that helps to collect the measurements). You won't have to go behind the wheel to measure the calipers, but you'll need to take the wheels off.

 

[TheSt|G]

Awesome info! I compared your recommendation to the setup I am now planning on and my setup would actually clear the strut by an additional 1.4mm over a 18x9.5 +58 offset, so I should be good. BC Forged wheels are too nice for my budget so I am working with Forgestar. I have had custom forgestar wheels in the past, and they are made to order, you can choose the wheel size, offset and bolt pattern just like BC forged... and they take 6 to 10 weeks to be delivered. They are also light, and flow forged, and cost about $1600-$1700 a set. (almost half of what BC forged charges).

The downside is that despite what the marketing would like you to think, "flow forming", "rotary forming", or whatever else they are calling it this week is in fact casting. Casting with the weight of a forged wheel is going to be quite weak, though you may be saved by the fact that it will be an 18".

 

[tinyman392]

The downside is that despite what the marketing would like you to think, "flow forming", "rotary forming", or whatever else they are calling it this week is in fact casting. Casting with the weight of a forged wheel is going to be quite weak, though you may be saved by the fact that it will be an 18".

Rotary forging/flow forming is essentially a cast face with a forged barrel. So I wouldn't say it's as weak as a casted rim as the barrel will be much stronger with less weight.

 

[TheSt|G]

Rotary forging/flow forming is essentially a cast face with a forged barrel. So I wouldn't say it's as weak as a casted rim as the barrel will be much stronger with less weight.

That would be incorrect. The barrel is a strengthened casting, but still a casting. It is unrelated to say a BBS RGR being made on a 9,000 ton press.

And this isn't to say that there are not weak forged wheels, there definitely are.

 

[tinyman392]

That would be incorrect. The barrel is a strengthened casting, but still a casting. It is unrelated to say a BBS RGR being made on a 9,000 ton press.

And this isn't to say that there are not weak forged wheels, there definitely are.

The entire "strengthening" you talk about is the forging process as the casted barrel is reshaped into its final shape using presses, rollers, dyes, etc. which both reshapes the metal and compresses it. I'm pretty certain that latter step is forging the metal.

 

[TheSt|G]

The entire "strengthening" you talk about is the forging process as the casted barrel is reshaped into its final shape using presses, rollers, dyes, etc. which both reshapes the metal and compresses it. I'm pretty certain that latter step is forging the metal.

They use rollers to pull the metal into a shape, it is not the same as forging. If it was, traditional forging would be abandoned as the space alone to house a 2-3 story 8,000lb wheel press could easily be filled by 5-10 flow/rotary casting machines.

To be clear, flow/rotary formed wheels are a HUGE upgrade compared to traditional cast wheels, but they are not forged wheels or forged wheels for less.

Here is a solid write-up on the topic:
https://www.auto-fanatic.com/uncategorized/the-hidden-truth-of-rotary-forged-alloy-wheels/

 

[Glowzzy]

The downside is that despite what the marketing would like you to think, "flow forming", "rotary forming", or whatever else they are calling it this week is in fact casting. Casting with the weight of a forged wheel is going to be quite weak, though you may be saved by the fact that it will be an 18".

In the past I have used this brand of wheel on track with no issues. But don’t take my word for it. The $90,000 Honda Civic Type R TC turn-key race car that Honda offers comes with Forgestar F14 wheels. If these cast wheels with flow formed barrels are good enough for Honda to put on a $90k civic, then they are good enough for me.

 

[TheSt|G]

In the past I have used this brand of wheel on track with no issues. But don’t take my word for it. The $90,000 Honda Civic Type R TC turn-key race car that Honda offers comes with Forgestar F14 wheels. If these cast wheels with flow formed barrels are good enough for Honda to put on a $90k civic, then they are good enough for me.

If Honda got everything right this car would not have shipped on 30lb dubs.

 

[Redraider]

Awesome! Now since you've posted this I have also spoken to a few guys running extreme setups with 295's and there's also a guy in this thread who has given great info as well running 295's. I have shifted my thinking based on their input as well as your measurements, and now I think I'm going to go for an 18x10 +50 square setup. Now I just need to know the spoke-to-caliper clearance for both front and rear. Measurements A, B, C, and D should be enough to figure it out, I've been emailing the manufacturer to find out if the calipers will clear the spokes. Let me know if you have time to measure these also and I will send in to the manufacturer to find out (it is not for Weds wheels, but this is a Weds work sheet that I found that helps to collect the measurements). You won't have to go behind the wheel to measure the calipers, but you'll need to take the wheels off.

I took the wheel off today to wrap the car. I'll grab those measurements tomorrow and post them.

 

[Glowzzy]

I took the wheel off today to wrap the car. I'll grab those measurements tomorrow and post them.

awesome! What color and wrap are you using? Also, If you can do any additional measurements that are on the sheet, that can only be more helpful, let me know what you find out! Thanks!

 

[Redraider]

awesome! What color and wrap are you using? Also, If you can do any additional measurements that are on the sheet, that can only be more helpful, let me know what you find out! Thanks!

Attached is is the dimensional inspection for the front brake. I am a mechanical engineer that specializes in turbomachinery and have dimensionally inspected hundreds of machines. Not all the dimensions in the spreadsheet are precise to the .001" Some of the dimensions are impossible to precisely get such as M,B,C,D. The best way to get the D dimension is to measure the distance between the caliper and the ID of the wheel, then measure the ID of the wheel and calculate the D dimension, which is what I did. That dimension is not precise to the .001" due to the tools and method of measuring. The D dimension could be off by 1/8"- 1/4". All the axial dimensions are precise as well as the hub dimensions. If I was specifying wheels with the numbers I took, I would make absolutely sure the new wheel inside diameter would allow for the uncertainty in the D dimension.

I am wrapping the car in a yellow that is close to the Phoenix Yellow of the limited. I also tinted the head lights.