'16 Civic, Rear Rotors Scorched, Cracked & Rusted

jackson

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In question is our 2016 Civic, the car is a daily driver car was bought brand new in June 2016 with 0 miles. Well today after doing the winter to summer wheel swap I noticed that the rear rotors are totally gone. They look as if they came off a 15 year old car that has sat for months if not years. The car currently has 43k miles. There is actually chunks missing in the rotor surface. In all my years of owning cars and replacing my own brakes as well as helping others, I am honestly surprised to see the condition of these after such a short time. If this was a second hand car to me, I would venture and say that whoever installed them last obviously screwed something up or put on the cheapest of the cheapest stuff out there. But this equipment is OEM that would of came out of the Honda factory.

Has there been known issues with these cars brakes/rotors? I am honestly surprised to see the condition of these after such a short time. The car is used daily and sees a fair bit of highway driving so its not just stop & go traffic. This is just one side, the other side is not too far behind.

I will have to replace these considering the state they are in.
1) Can someone recommend me a set of pads and rotors? I won't be looking for performance brakes/rotors or slotted. But can someone recommend me whats a decent set of pads and rotors? Prefer to stay away from super-economy grade stuff too to prevent squeaks and perhaps this type of result.

2) Is there anything special to be aware of considering the car has the electronic parking brake/ brake hold function? I am used to traditional brake system and just pushing/turning the main cylinder back when installing new pads.

Honda Civic 10th gen '16 Civic, Rear Rotors Scorched, Cracked & Rusted 60892032217--71CBBE9E-5F20-44E4-9FCB-E5E96ADC8E27.JPG


Honda Civic 10th gen '16 Civic, Rear Rotors Scorched, Cracked & Rusted IMG-2388


Honda Civic 10th gen '16 Civic, Rear Rotors Scorched, Cracked & Rusted IMG-2389
 
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Jeffers

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Do they salt the roads where your at?
Looks like the car's been driven though the surf.
Do the electric parking brake motors still work?
Maybe the piston seized in the caliper, didn't retract, and overheated the rotor.
 
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jackson

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Do they salt the roads where your at?
Looks like the car's been driven though the surf.
Do the electric parking brake motors still work?
Maybe the pistons seized in the caliper, didn't retract, and overheated the rotor.
Yes they salt the roads. The electronic brake system still works, no issues or lights on dash etc.

The brakes seem fine from feel seem to me and operate normally. I am not sure if this is a quality issue or what. But I've yet to see rotors like this, especially on a 4 year old car.

I am researching now and trying to understand if I need something special is needed to replace the brakes on this due to the electronic system.
 
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Jeffers

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The electric rear parking brakes.
Nice diagrams.
Do you have a subscription to service manual provider?
Or is it a digital service manual you purchased online?
If you've found a manual online you like, could you post where I could purchase one?
I like to do my own wrenching when possible.
Thanks,
 

latole

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Jackson, same rust on my wife 2016, rear brakes. Put new rotors and pads this winter. Japan made sell by Napa
Look this happened often on 2016, my 2018 is ok
 
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jackson

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Jackson, same rust on my wife 2016, rear brakes. Put new rotors and pads this winter. Japan made sell by Napa
Look this happened often on 2016, my 2018 is ok
Thanks for the info! Funny you mention this I was talking to a friend who has a 2015/2014 can’t recall and he said that he failed his inspection for the exact reason as his rotors were completely shot and were less than 3 years old and done by the dealer previously.

This is not uncommon......but the degree that the rotors are falling apart appears more accelerated than normal.
thanks for the bulletin. The car is out of warranty at this point I am sure this won’t apply. For the service manual, thank you as well! I am confused though does the actuator have to be turned as per the first couple of steps? Or is that just something that was in those Instructions but doesn’t apply?
 


akirarex

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You remove the actuator to gain access to the spindle. You have to use an E11 Torx Socket to return the spindle back "home". You need to retract the spindle so you can retract the hydraulic piston with a tool in later steps. The spindle "backs up" the hydraulic piston.
 

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Hey if you got time, can you snap pics of the pads and measure thickness of the rotors?
 
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jackson

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Hey if you got time, can you snap pics of the pads and measure thickness of the rotors?
I can do that when I tackle the job, most likely next weekend. Will have to source the parts first. May I know why you ask?

You remove the actuator to gain access to the spindle. You have to use an E11 Torx Socket to return the spindle back "home". You need to retract the spindle so you can retract the hydraulic piston with a tool in later steps. The spindle "backs up" the hydraulic piston.
Thanks akirarex! The manual you linked to, I downloaded onto my PC and added the extra files so as to launch Manual.html but I find the Manual is hard to follow/read. Or am I missing something? Once I click on the Brake System, everything afterwards is non clickable but more or less scroll and search for what you need. Is this correct?
 

Oddwayne

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I can do that when I tackle the job, most likely next weekend. Will have to source the parts first. May I know why you ask?



Thanks akirarex! The manual you linked to, I downloaded onto my PC and added the extra files so as to launch Manual.html but I find the Manual is hard to follow/read. Or am I missing something? Once I click on the Brake System, everything afterwards is non clickable but more or less scroll and search for what you need. Is this correct?
Trying to see how much you got out of 4x,xxx miles
 

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Same rust on mine, live in a salt belt. Replaced last year with centric brand from rockauto. Mine had 35000kms. But it's not really the mileage that does it, just the passage of time for the corrosion to go to work. My pads were 100% worn too, which is to be expected when having to clamp on to a coarse rusty old rotor. It's a cheap DIY fix.

Both our '15 and '16 rear brakes looked the same. The fronts were good though.
Sponsored

 
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