1.5L Valve Clearances

latole

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I'm at 350,000 kms on the Corolla, and trading on an SI Coupe around April 2018... I adjusted all 16 valve clearances with 7 new lifters, and by switching the others around at 160,000 kms. All clearances had increased a bit since 100,000 kms, and I got tired of the ticking as some clearances were then near maximum spec. I set them all at or near minimum spec.
So Corolla don't have hydraulic lifter ? I will look if I heard any noise on mine.
Same as you I wish to buy a 2018 LX MT next year.
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jks

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Yes. As noted in your owner's manual, valve clearances should be inspected when replacing spark plugs (Code 4).

• Adjust the valves during services A, B, 1, 2, or 3 if they are noisy. (USA)
• Adjust the valves during services A, 0, 1, 2, 3, or 9 if they are noisy. (Canada)

Solid lifters are more reliable than hydraulic lifters which cannot be used in high-rpm applications. Valve lash clearances are actually easy to inspect and fun to adjust on the Honda... I had to remove and reinstall the camshafts to replace lifters with thicker ones to adjust valve clearances on my Corolla.
The Mazda3 has the same redline as the Civic x and the Mazda3 has hydraulic lash adjusters. Hyundai uses them too on some high revving engines. Solid lifters are more reliable? Not if the adjusting screw loosens or if the lash goes out of adjustment. Fun? I adjusted the lash on my RSX and it took me half the day. It was back breaking work and no fun at all. Hydraulic lash adjusters are infinitely superior to Honda's dinosaur screw adjusters. Hydraulic lash adjusters keep lash properly adjusted as the engine warms too.

I really really don't like the lifter and rocker design on this car. Honda tried the Y rockers on a V-4 motorcycle engine in the 80s with disastrous results. Uneven lash and spring tensions caused the rocker to twist and wear quickly. Honda had to recall the engines and completely redesign the valves and cams using a single cam lobe and rocker for each valve.

Nobody knows the adj. interval for these stupid screw adjusters?
 

schmiddr2

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I know this is an old thread, but I now have 130,000 miles on my old 16 Civic and lots of people are probably getting in the range to do this service and it is seems no one is doing this it because there are no threads on this other than this one.

Can anyone list the parts needed to be replaced when doing this job? And the parts recommended to replace while the valve cover is off. If you have PN's too would really make this thread a pre-diy help.
 

zspeed

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I know this is an old thread, but I now have 130,000 miles on my old 16 Civic and lots of people are probably getting in the range to do this service and it is seems no one is doing this it because there are no threads on this other than this one.

Can anyone list the parts needed to be replaced when doing this job? And the parts recommended to replace while the valve cover is off. If you have PN's too would really make this thread a pre-diy help.
You just need a filler gauge, screw driver and wrench, valve cover gasket seal, optional is a new valve cover gasket too.
 

retuks

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Someone should edit the first post to include MILES/KMS per adjustment... I too am always finding old ass 2008 civic adjustment manual PDFs or Honda fit stuff. Never 1.5t. I just want the 1.5T


WHEN: (Miles, Kilometers per service)

Valve clearances:

WHAT SUPPLIES:

It seems impossible to find the simplest things for the simplest cars sometimes.
 


BrandonSmith

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Someone should edit the first post to include MILES/KMS per adjustment... I too am always finding old ass 2008 civic adjustment manual PDFs or Honda fit stuff. Never 1.5t. I just want the 1.5T


WHEN: (Miles, Kilometers per service)

Valve clearances:

WHAT SUPPLIES:

It seems impossible to find the simplest things for the simplest cars sometimes.
Valve Clearance Inspection (L15B7 and K20C2)

WHEN
:
Maintenance Minder 4, OR when valves are noisy. NOTE: there are no miles associated with ANY maintenance on 2016+ Hondas.​

Valve Clearances:
Intake: 0.21 - 0.25 mm (0.009 in)​
Exhaust: 0.25 - 0.29 mm (0.010 - 0.011 in)​
Supplies:
Socket wrench and torque wrench (10mm deep socket, 14mm spark plug socket, 19mm socket)​
6+ inch socket extension for 14mm spark plug socket and 19mm socket​
Pliers​
Shop Towels​
Putty knife​
Feeler gauges (0.009 in, 0.010 in, and 0.011 in)​
10mm end wrench​
Flathead screwdriver​
Torque wrench​
Hondabond liquid gasket​
Head cover gasket(s)​
 
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retuks

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so good you posted. I copied and printed. It will stay with me in the glove box lol
 

pumpkin

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Someone should edit the first post to include MILES/KMS per adjustment... I too am always finding old ass 2008 civic adjustment manual PDFs or Honda fit stuff. Never 1.5t. I just want the 1.5T


WHEN: (Miles, Kilometers per service)

Valve clearances:

WHAT SUPPLIES:

It seems impossible to find the simplest things for the simplest cars sometimes.
i wouldn't worry about valve adjustment unless they become extremely noisy,

in most cases these valves will never need adjustment for the lifetime of the vehicle,
 

fjrman

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Tighter tolerances might give you a bit more power. The intake valves open a bit more letting in more air. May be unimportant on a turbo engine.

My bike engine came from the factory with the intake valves set close to the minimum tolerances. My bike wasn't unique, others found similar results at the first valve check.

Adjusting the valves on a bike engine is very tedious compared to a car engine. You have to pull a camshaft to make an adjustment.
 


choo

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My car just started to get noisy when cold around 100k so I adjusted the valves then. I set them to a bit of the tighter end of the spectrum. It took me about two hours, never having done it before, and now the engine is quiet again.
 

retuks

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Tighter tolerances might give you a bit more power. The intake valves open a bit more letting in more air. May be unimportant on a turbo engine.

My bike engine came from the factory with the intake valves set close to the minimum tolerances. My bike wasn't unique, others found similar results at the first valve check.

Adjusting the valves on a bike engine is very tedious compared to a car engine. You have to pull a camshaft to make an adjustment.
You just want valves to be in the range the factory provided. If you just tighten the tolerances too much, especially with these engines that have phasing on both ends that could cause major problems. Valve tolerance is also there to accommodate the different metals at their varying rate of expansion as they heat up. if the tolerances are maxed out when cold, when you heat them up they might start butt-punching the pistons and f* eachother up.
 

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I just got this maintenance minder. But I barely trust the dealerships to perform this. They fuck up even tightening the oil pan metal cover right sometimes. I'm about to get the service manual and try myself.
 

Nessism

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I just got this maintenance minder. But I barely trust the dealerships to perform this. They fuck up even tightening the oil pan metal cover right sometimes. I'm about to get the service manual and try myself.
How did it go? Does the cam need to be positioned in a special fashion, or is it good enough to simply put the follower on the base circle of the cam?
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