Yes all the lights. This is how the car behave’s with a check engine light. If the car is left with the battery in while parts are being removed, the car will detect an error/fault. Which is why the battery should be removed to avoid the hassle of getting the check engine light later.
Would you considering selling a small part of the OEM intake? I'm in need of a small section of hose as seen in this photo circled in green. I would pay shipping no problem.
That’s a good question. But unfortunately not really possible to eliminate wheel to fender gap without lowering the vehicle.
I would say 18x9.5 +38 with 265/35/18 tires would do the trick. But keep in mind that different tire manufacturers can run wider than others. For example, a Yokohama...
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Lol yes he’s trying out different splitters. His current one is custom made by my friend Amir at RSFuture.
At least we agree on the aero balance. Splitter length is one thing. If most people are running stock with power around 400hp, 1” of splitter performance can be made with suspension...
Understood.
Aero will work based on how YOU need it to as a driver.There’s a balance to it. No set method as to the fastest option. Take a look at the Art of Attack CTR build for some useful tried and true performance from a great team and track driver. Same goes for USR with a great build.
so much misinformation here.
A 3” blade will provided downforce regardless. 4” rule of thumb? @Jotun Please share your info on this. Of course the longer the blade the more downforce, to say anything less isn’t going to make a difference would be wrong. All of my splitters I’ve used on my CTR...
I used 4 and those brackets in the photo. I have two as spare for the moment as backup if I have a failure on track. Ideally would like the fk8 Racebred brackets, but I don’t think they’re ready yet.
Apologies Michael, like I've said on the CTR Track FB group, thanks for the clarity and hoping to see on-going positive track tests. I'll add that I would jump on replacing my current upgraded koyo radiator.