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Thanks, I realized that minutes after posting. It seems everyone already knows. Was basically adding it in for free anyway.

Ktuner V1 from 2017. Still works great, unlocked from ECU and returned to factory before I sold my car. I can include the TSP stage 1 tune for 2017 Sport 1.5 6MT, as well as my custom 93 octane tune which I ran for a few years with no issues. Price is $360 shipped for the Ktuner unit and tunes...

I have a regular Ktuner (no LCD) and TSP stage 1 for 1.5 non-Si if you're interested, pm offer.

No problem, thanks for accumulating all the info! With all the driving I do lately I decided to try the Insight. Im actually loving it so far. Packed full of features compared to the '17 Sport, and just as engaging to drive, somehow, with the battery and EV mode. I will miss the passing power...

Here's a final update for me. I traded the car in last week. They said it was the 3rd highest mileage of that Civic in Honda NA records. I still got $14,000 for the car in this messed up market. Vehicle: 2017 Hatchback Sport , 149,300 miles driven Total tuned time: 4.5 years Total tuned...

150k miles in all mounts still holding strong

My car just started to get noisy when cold around 100k so I adjusted the valves then. I set them to a bit of the tighter end of the spectrum. It took me about two hours, never having done it before, and now the engine is quiet again.

I would imagine alot of the disinterest stems from concerns about future warranty issues. Personally I dont care about the warranty because there are so many of these cars around, a replacement engine is $750-$1200. I'd never trust the dealer to install it correctly anyway.

sounds dumb but did you make sure to turn the headlights on first? lol There is a slight chance you may have pinched the wires together hard enough to break the insulation and blow a fuse I guess..

You're welcome. I took a few months off but its going back up at about 1200 a week now. Let's see how far I can take the OE clutch!

Vehicle: 2017 Civic Hatch Sport Total tuned time: 4 years Total tuned mileage: 101,000 miles Tuning device(s) used: Ktuner v1 Tunes used: KTuner self tuned, custom MAF curve, 23psi boost, +2-3* timing here and there Fuel used: Shell 93 mostly Additional engine mods: K&N drop in...

On my car that line got soft and was doing the same thing yours is. Then it later cracked along the seam where it was collapsing. When the motor rocks back and forth it lets extra air in the ECU didnt meter. I replaced the line with some "transmission cooler" line, cleaned out the PCV valve with...

You can push a couple ounces of oil into the system as well when you add refrigerant. Once I added oil to mine the rattling the compressor had been making almost completely stopped. 8oz of 1234yf and its been cold again for a month so far..

Check the big vacuum lines along the top of the engine for leaks...like the PCV or brake booster line. One could be cracked and leaking when the engine moves.

I used one of these can taps to add refrigerant. To add oil I used a manual injector similar to the other picture. However I also needed 134->1234 conversion fittings as my equipment is all for 134. Those were another $20 on Amazon.

Yeah it was so clogged it looked smooth at a glance. I don't have the best eyesight so I had to clean the plastic area before I could even see it. The drain hole is visible in the picture posted above with the updated "inner cap".

Im almost certain that was happening. I was trying to diagnose a random cut in power that happened shortly after a hard braking or occasionally a quick turn. When I filled up the other day ( I havent been driving alot so I didnt notice, this is prob the 4th time I've filled up in as many...

I saw that on the newer models, it might help keep the water out but the drain hole still needs to be cleaned.

It's just a small drain hole to let the water out the rear of the gas door area. I think it had a dead bug stuck in it or something, I just poked it out with a pick tool and flushed it with some water.

Mine was clogged and was letting water enter the gas tank causing the car to intermittently lose power.