Search results

Whenever i’m in park and ONLY in park, i’ll see the RPMS start to hunt around from 750-800. Air fuel is sitting around 14.4-14.9 when it happens and theres an audible “pop” followed by a little vibration, with an added “knock count” afterwards. I noticed the knock counts recently are starting to...

Well either way, can't wait to get both the headlight bulbs and foglight bulbs and install them! Gonna be kinda cool to be able to switch between yellow and back to standard 6000k instead of getting whole new housings.

Ok good. I didn't really want to have a dangling driver slapping around in the wind while I drove. Kind of wished it was just incorporated onto the bulb assembly itself but I'm not the engineer who designed these.. so..

If any of y’all installed the lasfit switchback fog lights “bulbs”, where did y’all mount the external driver? I saw someone used self tappers to mount it to the frame rail, but don’t very much enjoy the thought of drilling into the main structure of the car... Would I be ok just zip-tying it to...

SO. The reason there was so much in there was because of condensation. It was mostly water, mixed with a very small amount of oil and or gas. I did a water/gas test on a sample I took and it split up as such. It was more water than oil/gas. It’s been just fine, I check it in between oil changes...

Wow, show them my WO straight from Honda. If they don’t listen tell them to look at the condition of the torque converter on whatever diagnostic computer those money stealers use. This sounds like the same exact issue I was having to a T.

It could be the torque converter that is failing, seems to be a quite frequent issue. Mine failed from the torque converter being locked up mostly all the time.

I’d like to know a bit more 1. How much fluid would need to be added to make up for the extra cooling 2. I have the lane departure and LKAS soI’d have to find a mounting spot in front of the radiator. Are there holes I could mount to?

Mm.. so, the same thing happened to me about 7-8 months ago in my 2021 civic. When coming to a full stop, rpms would start to stutter around 500 and stall out unless I slammed on the brakes like a madman at the last second. Took it into Honda at 10,000 miles, covered under 36,000 mile warranty...

Yes I do, i’ll send it here in a bit.

Most likely they had to take out the throttle body and intercooler pipes for clearance reasons, but i’m not sure

Apparently it’s a bracket that went on back of the throttle body, so that’s cool. I never touched it which must mean they had it off at some point during the tranny swap

I went with a Remark catback exhaust without the resonator. I’ll put in a link so you can listen

i called em and asked, they said to bring it in and they’ll put it back on. Said the guy knows most likely where it goes. So we’ll see.

Heres another angle But thats my thought too. I’m probably going to try another dealership thats in the same chain as the other dealership. But we’ll see what happens. Im more annoyed that there is a suspension component making a popping sound… and a bracket that was just flopping around in my...

I found this bracket after taking off the inspection cover, no idea what it goes to. I had warranty work done and the guy was being a dick so I’m not going back to Honda again.

Update: Gotta love warrantied trannys

Wouldn’t there be a CEL, as well as a transmission system problem message, if the TCM had failed? I’m getting no codes. Thats whats weird about this.

Ok, its now at Honda, according to the HPD tool that they have at the dealership, the torque converter is on full lock 24/7. Not too sure what could’ve caused that. They hopefully will have more info tomorrow as to why it happened.

Yeah I figured as much, I loved my 1.5 tune that I got with my ktuner, but I’m gonna get the car “back to stock” tomorrow, change the bov back, and stock rear motor mount to eliminate the vibration that gives off and throw it at the dealership since I used to work there. They can probably tell...