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How long ago did you over-rev it and what was the situation?

That's absolutely amazing. I'd love to see those datalogs. That car would make for a great blog post from 4P When would you recommend a fully built head with cams, port and everything? I'm guessing motec required =\

Thanks! Great info. Do you see any reduction in boost pressure with just a ported head? I'm guessing that similar to an upgraded FMIC, it needs less boost to hit torque targets

Everything effects them. If you insist on there being a problem, maybe the foam cover fell off. It's about 6 shop hours to check.

That sound is the injectors. They speed up with the engine speed. They tick twice per revolution. They are extremely loud. Sometimes they make less or more noise. There's nothing wrong with it

The tumble port is there to aid with fuel efficiency. What sort of highway MPG can be expected getting it ported? MPG isn't my goal but if it drops to something like 15mpg that would be a no-go for me

Just about any CEL disables rev match. There are also a lot of CELs that will disable the turbo. It's normal. You might also notice VAS Fully Off has also been disabled depending on the CEL Rev match is a little complicated and needs everything in working order. It's hard enough to get an...

Thanks! That's a very good post. Any idea how much of an impact ported heads have on efficiency? I don't want to be getting 10mpg haha

I plan on upgrading valve springs for safety but I'm starting to think I should just do a fully built valvetrain. For my purposes, I would like to have good power up until 7500-8000. I don't necessarily need much, just enough to be better off holding the gear than upshifting or at least close...

I've got quite a bit done and haven't been slipping

The tune will but they don't usually check. A CAI won't but I'm not sure about the cat. It's generally advised to be very cautious about modifying a vehicle while under warranty It would be a good idea to return it to stock first. They probably won't notice an ECU returned to stock but it's...

It depends. I used to drive a lot as part of my job. When I did the math, a Tesla would have cost me +$125/mo over the 32mpg car I was still making payments on. The reason at the time that I did not switch is because of uncertainty in regards to the company I worked for If that situation had...

I rented one for a week. It's the fastest car I've ever driven and it's also one of the most boring. The autopilot features are horrible and other manufacturers do it better. Tesla is a car for people who are not car enthusiasts and who still care about brand

I have the HVI. There is no increase in spool noise. There's a large increase in BOV noise The air rushing through the intercooler is louder than any spool noise

I'm wondering if an adjustable rear wing might be better but I'm not sure if the relationship between downforce and drag is linear. What I mean is that a wing capable of say 100lbs at 30° might still produce similar drag at 0°

The wing is my picnic table, I'm keeping it lol

At a cost of something like $100 per pound of weight reduction, I absolutely am on a diet lol!

I have found very few parts aside from rotors and wheels that can be upgraded to reduce unsprung weight. Any suggestions?

Yes, I've seen a few kits. The cheapest option is to put a standard upgraded damper on and buy a used 2005 Cadillac for the days you want comfort. The cheapest I've see that the car can adjust via mode switch was $6500 Definitely a bummer. I would very much like to have variable dampers on the...

I'm used to hypermiling techniques so no problem with control. It seems your idea is opposite of mine. Before doing any other research, I'm going to try making the first 75% throttle position very numb. Just enough power to go up a medium hill.