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I was also e-tuned by Drob at IMW. I highly reccomend him. My car is FBO and I have about 22K on his tune with no issues.

Only stabbed the brake pedal more than once at a stop to repeatedly recreate the noise. Sometimes just holding the brakes in a low vacuum environment would cause the noise to happen, but at the time it was not realized what was causing the issue. Now we know.

So I gave this a try and you are on to something. It starts making the noise when pumping the brakes heavily at a stop after the car has warmed up. It then continues making the noise until you rev the engine for a little bit. Interesting...

Agreed, I would like to dig into it but without isolating the noise, besides coming from the top left of the engine, I am not sure where to start. Nothing on a data log, doing the UOA next. Mine rarely happens but still.

I have a 2021 Type R and mine sounds just like this after being fully warmed up. Noise is coming from the back left of the engine if you are facing the front of the car at idle. Noise goes away as soon as you rev it. The car has never been over revved. It is honestly driving me crazy. Info...

Not a crack. This is a common mark from where the pad stopped after your last drive.

Nice! I am taking the EVO school there at the end of April and Autocorss at Kil-kare near Dayton.

Use OEM only unless directed by a reputable tuner.

Recently found that I had oil coming from the black inspection cover as well. Upon further inspection the valve cover was leaking enough that oil was seeping down between the transmission and block. You could see the oil trail started well above where the rear main seal would be. Honda fixed...

I didn't do anything as it is not necessary.

For a street car I would go PRL due to it being tougher (bar & plate). For a car that will be tracked a lot go HKS (tube & fin).

Your thread is what talked me into getting the CCV can since I plan to track the car next year. I also dabble in autox. Really surprised with how much the PCV can catches!

Agreed, that is my experience as well. Also switching to Redline or Amsoil would most likely help some as well. I'll mess around with oil next season though.

Thanks for the heads up! I will do that since I remove them a lot.

I emptied out my Radium PCV Catch Can today after 2100 miles. It caught an ounce (measuring spoon used) of mostly oil vapor, with some fuel vapor and condensation as well. Radium CCV can was dry. Car is driven 90% stop and go city and gets roughly a pull a day. Also during the 2100 miles were 2...

Anyone get this to work with the Radium CCV Catch Can while retaining the OEM engine cover?

If you are under 400 HP this is true, but if you plan on going bigger turbo you will want to upgrade the exhaust as well. Some users have seen a 30 hp increase when replacing the exhaust when above 400 HP. Best to talk to your tuner.

If your car is custom tuned you need to talk to your tuner. Chances are that intake will mess with your tune due to the maf housing size.

How do you like your new exhaust and which downpipe do you have? Car looks great!

PM Sent! Thanks