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I just used VHT nite shades on the stock orange markers :) Spray a couple coats, clear it and buff it. Works great. The more coats the darker it gets. On my coupe (before the hatch) i tinted them with RED VT Nite Shades, which made them blend in. Not sure if I like red or black more...

I had a similar experience on my D2 coilovers. The spring was loose-ish in the rear. Get the spring how you want it, jack up the perch until it's where you want the preload and then adjust the shock until it fits.

It's no where near stock, definitely lowered about 1.5-2 inches. I didn't want it slammed but wanted to minimize wheel gap. Side by side with stock it's noticeable. My coworker has a stock fk7

Dropped on D2 racing coilovers.

Dropped on D2 racing coilovers.

Dropped on D2 Racing Coilovers. Did the install myself, first time lowering any of my cars. Wasn't too bad of a process either, took a few hours and some trial and error. I didn't want it dropped completely to the ground because of where i live, so eliminating wheel gap was primary concern. So...

Hanover had a CTR? I got my 16 coupe at Apple, traded that in for a 17 Hatch at Hanover. I keep 'joking' with the fiance i'm going to trade this in for a CTR.

Red FK7 Sport Touring in Hanover/York PA area. Whaddup dudes.

Haven't done much to the car lately. Have had the car for 11 months, just hit 6k miles and did an oil change. Ordered the D2 Coilover set, another set of JDM badges and clear side markers. I want to see what the clear vs oranged tinted black look like.

Bought my coupe at apple. love the staff there.

The original post (above) has a link if you click on it in the list.

Yea, not sure.. the harness it came with had then soldered together, maybe with the intended use (the harness is intended to be used with for fogs (not LEDs)) needs it soldered. I don't mind an orange light indicating the switches has power to it, no biggie.

I cut the wires about 12 inches out from the green plug and used those wires. I didn't wire to the plug, instead used the wiring that was connected to the plug. It's technically 2 red, a blue and a black wires (on mine) coming from the plug. (The 2 red are soldered together about 4 inches...

The one light is always on (the bar going across), the other light turns green when the actual lights are on (switch is in the 'on' state). You can see the distinction in the picture above. And no idea whats up and whats down, i just put it in and it fit :D :D :D

I did not mention it to them. Good shops generally make it work or have the cutouts already. I did not tint the sunroof, it has a shade i use if I don't want sun in :D

Here are the images of the button off and on.. Green light means it's on. And with the lights off and on.

Here is my thread on how I wired the LEDs, as well as a switch I used so I can disable the lights if I choose. http://www.civicx.com/threads/push-button-light-switch-for-dash-not-ignition.11124/ The switch came with a harness that I hacked part of to use for power/ground.

I'll post one when I get out to the car (at work right now). Below is the wiring diagram. The button came with about 10 feet of cable, a relay, in line fuse and light bulb connections because it's for fog lights. I used the actual button and the green connection which had 4 wires coming out...

Mine do and I have a sport touring HB.

How's the fitment on the JDM emblem?