My previous vehicle consumed 1/2 qt per 3,000 mile oil change on a good OCI. By 1k miles the oil was nearly opaque. Even using Rotella T6, when I would check oil the level, you could smell the fuel in the oil as early as 1,000 miles. It was just something you had to deal with in early production...
Under no circumstances should you ever go below minimum octane rating. In my hypothetical situation, I should have been more clear. I was not talking about the stock map. It's very common on flex fuel vehicles to utilize the factory alcohol sensor to adjust maps on the fly. Or, like in my case...
A better example is a car that adjusts for E on the fly. If you put 93 in daily, and maybe hit the track on the weekend and you add E85 to your tank, the ECU will adjust accordingly.
I think you're confusing how the ECU adjusts for fuel. The scenario you're describing only works if you require 93 and accidentally put in a lower grade, in which case the ECU will cut timing and such to prevent Kr. As better fuel is available (fill half a tank with 93 lets say) you will get...
On my first fill up they asked what grade to put in, and I didn't know, seems silly but I just hadn't thought to look. So I said 91. I was thinking there was no way high compression, high boost would run on 87. I was wrong.
Coming from a performance car where my tune from 92 to 93 net me about 3...
See this...
On top of that, (and it's been covered) in a CVT? ugh
The dealer sticker and license plate frame were the first things off the car. The day I bought it. Too much going on in the back there.
That's what I thought. It's not really a strain on anything but the locking pin. The picture should be similar to what is in the DSG in your car, but smaller I think.
I've actually read several very outstanding UOA's on Wally World Dino oil. I'll provide a link if interested. It was a turbo DI car prone to fuel dilution in <3,000 miles.
Designer oils are great, if your service intervals are a race weekend or two. Like you said.