Search results

For sale: 4 5 x 114.3 20 mm spacers Used for maybe 500 miles, excellent shape overall. Used on a 20 Si, should fit any 10th gen except FK8. $180 shipped anywhere in the lower 48. PayPal required if shipped. If you happen to be in SC, PM and we can negotiate a little on price for local...

For sale: 4 x 5 x 1114.3 20 mm spacers Used for maybe 500 miles, excellent shape overall. Used on a 20 Si, should fit any 10th gen except FK8. $180 shipped anywhere in the lower 48. If you happen to be in SC, PM and we can negotiate a little on price for local pickup.

Wow dude this shop really fd things up. I hope you consider naming them so others don't go there. I used a shop for my clutch swap and they screwed a couple of things up, but very minor compared to this.

For sale: PRL intercooler plus piping. Used on 20 Si for roughly 20k miles. Still in good shape other than a few bugs and 100% functional. Asking $650 for entire kit. Located in central SC for pickup, willing to discuss shipping at buyer's expense. (Shipping will require PayPal).

That's what I figured.

Source?

This weekend I suffered a terrible loss (si), so to help assuage my grief I jumped on true car and found several dealers who (apparently) were willing to sell the FL5 at or near MSRP (I know, I know). I reached out to a few. The honest one (?) got back to me and said they had just sold theirs...

Did this sell?

This is true. The Electric drive should be backed off either manually or with a scan tool. Only then should the piston be pushed in (not turned). The maintenance manual approved way to manually back the epb off is to remove the actuator and take a torx socket and turn the spindle manually.

I would do it again. This time, try to follow hawks instructions as precisely as possible as opposed to an indefinite "5 heat cycles". Remember to not apply the parking brake until at least 15 minutes after the brakes have cooled.

Did you bed them per Hawk's instructions? If not (or even if you thought you followed the instructions properly) I'd recommend re-bedding them.

Honda is correct. The injectors are a non-wear item that are necessary for the engine to do its job, so they are part of the powertrain warranty.

No there is some extra space in the reservoir, so replace all your pads before bleeding. You MAY need to suck a little out of the reservoir as you push in the pistons, but most likely not. If you are doing a full fluid flush then just suck out the top old fluid from the reservoir first before...

To make the process clearer, you hook the speedibleed up at the brake reservoir under the hood. Follow the instructions and it will push fluid down to each caliper (and the clutch FTM). But in order for the fluid to actually flow, you have to crack the bleed screws one caliper at a time. This...

I will admit to being a neophyte when it comes to track days so forgive the dumb question.....are folks generally comfortable leaving unsecured tools in the paddock while on the track?

What does your maintenance minder suggest? That's where I'd start.

PRL most likely has them in stock. The website still says June, but it's said that for at least a couple of months and lots of us have gotten them.

Scroll up. I'd say that that the cylinder 4 misfire is a strong clue that your injectors are failing.

Hirev had a now discontinued power folding kit with excellent instructions re: wiring. I think the instructions are still floating around on civicx somewhere. They may be useful to anyone attempting to install an ebay, etc. kit.

I think you may be getting a couple of things mixed up. 1. Yes transmission oil will need to be drained for the clutch swap. Most folks just add fresh tr. oil after everything is back together. 2. If you are swapping out the clutch line, yes the clutch will need to be bled with new fluid...