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Not if you use them correctly, no. Firstly, never circles. Only straight lines. Secondly, make sure they're free from debris that might have gotten imbedded. If it falls on the floor, DON'T reuse it without washing it and inspecting it first. And when washing, DON'T use fabric softener. There's...

Hello. As the title says, I would like to remove the internals from my door handles to be able to get as good of a coverage as possible with paint. I have Keyless, and as such I'd like to remove the keyless part, as well as remove the door lock cylinder on the drivers side. The drivers side...

That's where I was gonna order mine, only one with an actual usable web store, to my knowledge.

Autoglym leather spray cleaner and leather care balm is what I've used. It doesn't leave a slick or shiny residue. I can't say how it is in the long run since I haven't had any of my cars long enough to know but Autoglym is pretty good stuff and it has a Royal Warrant, so.

Yeah, the thread is sort of stale. That's why I started a new one, hoping for some more interest from a new thread.

Yeah I actually followed your guide :thumbsup: But yours didn't also illuminate the indicators. This is the guide I followed for amber/amber conversion. Thinking it might be something with the ground to the Switchback not being connected anymore? Solutions? I haven't found any Amber/ amber...

Light blue on driver's side. Was the only one that triggered the switchbacks to blink

Hello. I followed another post about how to make your switchbacks always amber and blink amber. But when I tapped into the blinker headlight wire something weird happened.... With the engine off but power on, the side markers are really dim. And with the car and headlights on and blinkers off...

10% IPA, 1:64 ONR, or very diluted APC. Depends on what's the issue. finish with 303 Aerospace. For leather I use AutoGlym leather cleaner and leather balm. You can finish with 303 on leather as well but AutoGlym is enough. Bonus tip, spray some of the ONR mix on the rear floor mats and the...

Has anyone figured out how to make the sidemarkers glow orange AND blink in time (not alternating) with the indicators? Some relay trick, maybe?

I'll be painting. I wanted to remove the trim since my garage can get a little dusty sometimes. I have the possibility of making an impromptu separate paint booth but there's no way I'd get the car in there. Yeah, that seems to be the only safe option, right now. Removing the trim seems to be...

But has anyone managed to remove it without bending it? My idea is to do it using fishing wire and a heat gun, as you would removing badges. Hopefully the wire would be thin enough to not bend or kink the trim, and the heat gun would soften the adhesive to be able to compensate where the wire is...

People hate on CG because they see it as overpriced and they say that many of their products are just copies of eachother. The hate comes from their YouTube channel and their marketing, I guess. They have some great stuff but also some really meh stuff, like any company.

The car looks great! I'd however suggest topping with some sort of LSF product, wax. I personally use Soft99 Fusso Coat and am incredibly thrilled. I've also used Collinite 845 but I've started favoring Fusso a lot more lately. They're both waxes that last ages, fusso is a hard wax best applied...

So, piggyback harnesses exist. I didn't know that. I ordered one for the halogen headlights that matches the high beam bulb (HB3 plug), however I don't know how it is with the LED lights. I hope it's the same. Apologies for the frustration.

I used Chipex recently on something very similar on my car. You'll need: Either a Chipex kit or just the paint, solvent, brushes, and the blending cloth(s). 2000 grit sandpaper. Compound and polish and corresponding pads. Steps: 1) Lightly scuff up the scratch, with the sandpaper this is...

So what does that mean? I have no choice but to tap the green wire that goes into the bulb connector? I have shrink tube solder connectors, is the really skinny wire strong enough to be able to be cut and stripped without being destroyed? I REALLY don't want to mess this up, y'know?

My manual says the high beam fuse is 29 and 30 in the Engine Fusebox. I have tested every single fuse, and they are all constantly 12v. I checked the driver side fuse box. Some fuses are switched, but not with the high beams. The testing procedure: Attach multimeter probe to ground, probe...

Yeah pretty much my thought as well. Was fishing for any secret hideyholes, but there just might not be any. I guess I'll have to buy some black hot glue, then. Thanks for the help, Hobby-man and Jeffers!

Yeah, I figured I'd have to remove the fuse box to be able to run the wire. Was hoping there was an easier way. Tapping into any wires isn't an option, sadly. That's way too destructive. A tiny hole I'm fine with, but cutting up factory wiring isn't anything I want to do. To the extent possible...