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FWIW, I was experiencing something similar in my '17 sport touring hatch- with or without radio on. A large contributor is tire noise. However I made the car much more comfortable to drive by covering the floor from front to back in noico 80 mil butyl rubber and noico red 150 mil as well as...

great minds think alike! Ive been using all of that stuff along with the solder seal wire connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S62KYSL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rDVeFbXCT99XF

I like to work with my hands so right now I’m working for an engineering company keeping their vehicles in shape and this semi truck I’m in the process of rewiring for them and they asked me to make it quieter and more comfortable of a ride inside

I just don’t have the funds to allocate for the MLV right now since I’m in grad school but maybe one day ???? But I am doing a sound deadening project for a semi truck - sponsored by work and I used noico butyl rubber and then luxury liner pro for that and I’m jealous I couldn’t throw that in my...

You gotta remove the 4 door handles and then also pop off the lenses for your map lights in the front and back and there’s screws under those lenses and then the headliner should just lower down. You do have to take ALL the trim plastic off from around the seat belts for front and rear seats and...

Got everything all finished up on the car didn’t take any more pictures because honestly it was hot and I wanted to get finished but it’s by no means a challenging project, just time consuming. My biggest challenge was getting the trim back in to fit nicely and again just takes a lot of tries to...

Not sure if you have one already but a good appendix holster will let you carry comfortably while driving I use a vedder light tuck aiwb and can drive 3-4 hours before I start to notice my g43 If I carried a g19 I would probably use a tier 1 axis Either way sitting isn’t really an issue, just...

Roof and floors are all finished up and tomorrow I’ll be putting the interior back together and starting on the doors I left some areas of the floor foam less for clearance reasons I don’t want to have to force anything back together and since I’m not using any MLV I know this isn’t going to...

Got as much as I could done on the roof of the car I couldn’t for the life of me get the visors to come off so I had to just angle down the headliner and work in the area behind my sunroof- this is the area that needed the most help anyways But I only got a few strips of dampener and foam in...

Got the interior stripped down to get started on my sound deadening project today Going to be using a combo of 50mil and 80 mil butyl dampener along with noico 150 mil closed cell foam Plan is to do 50mil and then foam under the front carpet (finished that but don’t have pics as I didn’t want...

that’s what I’m going to install. Havent looked into amps too much yet but I’m thinking I may try skar audio

I can add an amp with just a lc2i wired in before it, right?

Didnt get pictures, my only concern would be that the sub used spade connectors for the wiring but I am confident in that aspect of it. I suppose yes it is worse than the stock because I just cant tell if it is actually working or not.

Went back and rewired it like that. It made a small improvement but I still can’t tell a difference between having the sub plugged in or not plugged In

Did you have any Trouble or surprises taking the headliner off? Is it relatively easy to drop it down and put it back up?

I only have one set of terminals connected because I thought the oem system was 4ohm Do I need to wire the sub as 2ohm for it to have enough power?

It just barely vibrates. It moves but doesn’t make any bass

Just tried to install a polk db842 8" DVC subwoofer in my sport touring with the 12 speaker system. At this stage the subwoofer was just a drop in replacement. I dont have an aftermarket amp or a line out converter. Just spliced the oem wiring harness for the stock subwoofer. got everything...

BUMPING WITH ANOTHER QUESTION Does anybody know what it takes to remove the headliner so that I would be able to sound deaden the roof as well? My main concern is running into airbags which i dont want to have to mess with removing or re-installing.

I am planning to do some sound damping/proofing in my sport touring hatchback. I know that CLP+Foam+MLV is the best way to go, but that isnt in my budget right now. So I am curious as to whether I would be better off doing a 100% coverage of something like noico 80mil on the doors, sides and...