I ordered a sweet custom shift knob from Billetworkz. It’s a tall teardrop shape, weighted (around 600g), and is matte midnight Philadelphia Eagles green with the Eagles logo etched in the top.
I custom ordered this for my Type R and then life circumstances changed and I sold the Type R. New...
I’ve actually considered chopping off the whole back section and moving to dual burnt titanium tips. I’d leave both stock resonators upstream. Anybody have a guess how that would sound?
The half gear shifts happen when cold for me. I’ve started double clutching first to second for the first few 1-2 shifts. After that I’m out of my neighborhood area and my car is warm enough to be smoother.
They were unable to duplicate the issue with two techs and in a ride along with me. One of the techs apparently owned a Type R and said mine operated normal like his. The dealership worksheet says they “inspected shifter cables, throttle adjustments and pressure stall.” It felt smoother on my...
Took my car in. Dealership made sure to advise me of the $145 diagnostic fee if it isn’t covered under warranty. At 4,000 miles of highway commuting I can’t see how they would deny any work. Wish me luck.
Going to the dealership tomorrow. I cancelled my last appointment thinking it got better. Grinder 2nd again this morning and 4th feels like cornflakes. I have a 2018 with 4000 miles. All stock so hopefully they at least change the oil for me.
Thanks for all the help. It eliminated most if not all crunchiness and feels fairly crisp. What would next steps for improvement be? Bushings? GM synchromesh?
In my experience, not only was there grinding but also most gears felt extra grabby when moving between gears or even to just neutral. The clutch wasn’t completing disengaging due to this free play or slop. This also caused the grinding in second. At least this is how I understand it.
So I did it. Hit the resistance point and just went back slightly from that resistance. It had a good bit to go to resistance not suprising. Thanks for the help. It was about 1.5 full turns for me. I didn’t do the clutch pedal adjustment yet because this felt great already.
Would the rubber stopper piece be the actual pedal adjustment part further up? I’m assuming make sure it’s resting flush when not depressed, so that the play is gone?
Okay will do. Thanks. I didn’t want to torque on it too hard and break something. I think I’ll try adjustment first and then go GM synchromesh next if needed
So I may be a moron... but is this possible to do while the bracket is still attached to the clutch pedal? Maybe I’m looking for the nut in the wrong spot? I found the CMC and the nut at the end of the rod. But can’t get it loose.