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I have this issue too, doesn’t seem to be the rubber seal. Happens even when stopped, every few seconds. Door control? Sounds more electrical than mechanical. I also have likely parasitic drain, still need to test to see which fuse. Anyone else track this to anything electronic?

I’ve had multiple tunes on both my bugeye wrx, and now my sport hatch. I’ve spent a lot of time and mods dialing in various cars over 35+ years driving. if you are looking at a DD that is all any reasonable sporty DD should be on the street and are not doing autox or track, my recommendation is...

Thank you. That rattle was driving me crazy. I took a small piece of window seal/gap foam and pinched it into the back of the clips. That stuff compresses really well and should hold without having to use sealer etc. Really glad I found this thread! edit: in my case I also found the under...

Depending on if you want neutral vs oversteer... On my sport hatch touring just adding the si rear bar, accord links, and front strut tower bar got me to nicely neutral, even on the stock 18’s.

The key to tire wear is toe. with zero toe you do not have to worry about excessive uneven wear even with reasonably higher negative camber. generally zero toe in the front is good, the rear you want just a bit

Just to update my experience. I now have the si rear bar and the dc sports strut tower bar. The addition of the dc bar really helps balance out the car with the si rear bar. Much more neutral. I was going to add the whiteline 22 mm rear bar, but unless I end up going with different springs...

I disagree with you on that. Even at low speeds a properly matched rear sway improves feel and response greatly. I have a lot of experience with different setups on my wrx, just getting started with my civic.

I understand the nut behind the wheel. Totally agree. I disagree that they aren’t advisable for a daily driver when done thoughtfully. Plenty of benefits from getting the car to go where you point it when neutrally balanced. That’s why I tried the si bar first. Will be good to see the...

I don’t have a wobble, just more clear the front is soft when I added the si rear bar end links don’t alter alignment

thanks. I’m adding the dc strut bar next, most likely the whiteline rear bar after. I’m considering the whiteline springs too but my challenge is my driveway is steep and poorly designed and even at stock height on most cars you have to be really careful and at an angle not to scrape.

how much of a drop are the si springs on a hatch? Are the rates much higher? the 22mm bar will be next. do you have a front strut bar with your whiteline links?

Put the si bar in my sport hatch today. initial impressions are that the rear is more solid, but if anything it highlights the front being softer. Understeer is still there, but so is more dive into a corner. I’m still on the stock 18’s so the lack of grip certainty doesn’t help. I will get...

Are the brackets the same between the sport hatch, si, and type R for the sway bar? My bar should finally be arriving soon and I want to make sure before I do the install. thanks

For the install of the whiteline, would doing it on ramps solve the preload difficulty?

throttle lift at the wrong time on an off ramp or quick maneuver on the highway especially in the rain I spent a lot of time getting my wrx balanced, tried a lot of combination, so I’m pretty familiar with the feeling of balanced or too much one way or the other i will be putting accord rear...

I’m not looking for snap oversteer though. From what I’ve read even the type R bar gets to that so a 22 is on the dangerous side even more. Sounds to me I really need a 19 mm or 19.5 mm solid bar, just a bit more than the si and a little less than the type R. I haven’t seen any that spec though.

Just my daily driver..... but perhaps someday.

Surprised that the front maxes out at -1. so no simple mods upfront other than pulling the pins to get around -1.5 to -2.0? Thanks for the info

what alignment spec do you recommend for a stock daily driver? with my wrx you could get about -1.5 to -1.8 or so up front with zero toe. Not sure how universal camber setting are across vehicles...

22 solid or hollow? Big difference. I thought the type R was 22 solid and leads to over steer?