I didn't sit down a negotiate the 'out the door' price for both cars. Sounds like you did.
My Si was $27,000 out the door in 2019, and the sticker price on the CTR was around $37.K
So yeah, more than $10.K. and it wouldn't make sense to put 10.K into an Si, if a CTR was only $10 to 15.K more.
You may be able to reduce some of the freeplay the clutch pedal has before it meets the resistance of the throwout bearing contacting the pressure plate. That adjustment is under the dash on the pedal linkage.
Your clutch is dragging, so adding more travel to the throwout bearing into the...
Had it happen.
When mine doesn't want to go into first, I pop it into second, then back into first again.
Think I picked up the habit driving cars with non-synchro first gear.
As long as your car starts after unplugging it.
Picture 4) This is the only connection where Karr cuts the Honda harness.
An open circuit here prevents the car from starting.
I'd recommend soldering this connection back together. That way you're not relying on Karr's harness to start your car.
With a lifetime of experience driving manuals and motorcycles. (70 year old boomer)
I knew how smooth shifting was supposed to work.
It just took a while to perform it with the Si for some reason.
May have been the 'rev hang'.
Sounds like good advice. At least for high mileage cars.
I've heard a burr can form from the bypass plunger vibrating against the soft aluminum barrel.
Then a cold start/high rev (higher oil pressure) can push the plunger past the burr, and stick the valve open.
Mine was a manual.
My wheel bearing flange bolts loosened up after a few trips to the canyons.
Those bolts needed blue locktite to stay tight. Fast car in the canyons with traction control off.
On some twisty roads I could chase down motorcycles.
I see you have a Sky Redline!
I used to own a Solstice GXP.
Could be they did some stealth work on the exhaust.
Like drilling out the resonator or mufflers to make it sound better.